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The BORSALINO BROTHERHOOD

Randall Renshaw

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,082
Location
Nahunta, Ga.
Hat sizes generally go in 1/4 increments, but that’s different from 1/4 of an inch. After some expensive and heartbreaking mistakes, the most I’ll do is just bump a hat that fits but is on the tight side. Some others have had better luck sizing up hats…wish Randall @Randall Renshaw was still active.


I came today to post my new hat victory and saw this mention.
Thanks, Brent.

Going up a full size, and definitely two, requires a full on tear down and rebuild—done correctly, anyway.
Otherwise, as Brent said, you’ll likely ruin an all too important sweatband and also end up with a very unattractive tapered crown.
It’s a lot of patiently stepped and skilled work, but well worth the trouble on special lids.
Unless you’re especially crafty with your hands and own a correctly shaped hat block/flange and also have around twenty worthless felt hats to practice on, I don’t recommend the arduous process.
 
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Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
Thanks. I have four vintage hats that were made 7 3/8 that had shrunk over time just enough to fit too tightly. It didn't take much stretching to make them fit just right. But I have never tried going up a whole size. I have heard of guys snipping the wire that goes around the head band, and seen one for sale that had that done to it. Seems drastic, though. I also know some guys who say they stretch their hats all the time up even two sizes with no issues. But I would like to see the results. Often I see sizes 7 1/4 to 7 1/8 dirt cheap, but have to pass and wait for ones my size which are usually double the price.


The reed in the sweatband serves a function, but I know people who not only cut it but use pliers and pull it completely out. This is a somewhat common practice with Akubra hats. I have several hat jacks, including a vintage 4-way, as well as two bench top electric/heated hat stretchers. For me, I’m sticking with just a gentle bump up a fraction of a size to adjust fit. Also, if you stretch a hat you can cause the brim tension to get wonky and then you end up needing to re-flange the hat.

I’m 2-3 sizes larger than you so I know all about the scarcity and premium price on vintage hats in larger sizes. If you want to stick with vintage then the answer is patience, lots of searching, and accepting that you will only add a few (or less) great hats a year to your collection. If I had to calculate my time searching into the cost of my vintage hats they would be in the thousands. If you don’t enjoy the hunt you’re going to get discouraged.
 
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Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
I came today to post my new hat victory and saw this mention.
Thanks, Brent.

Going up a full size, and definitely two, requires a full on tear down and rebuild—done correctly, anyway.
Otherwise, as Brent said, you’ll likely ruin an all too important sweatband and also end up with a very unattractive tapered crown.
It’s a lot of patiently stepped and skilled work, but well worth the trouble on special lids.
Unless you’re especially crafty with your hands and own a correctly shaped hat block/flange and also have around twenty worthless felt hats to practice on, I don’t recommend the arduous process.


Good to see you back, Randall. We missed seeing your posts and your great hat work.
 

Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,215
Location
Verona - Italia
Dear fellows, if you talk about Borsalino to strecth I advise you that the "original shape" of Borsalino is really hard to change.
You can do that, but most of the time there is a deformation of the hat.
If not all these posts must be removed to an appropriate thread that exist in the Lounge ;)
 

Pkyoakum

One of the Regulars
Messages
124
Dear fellows, if you talk about Borsalino to strecth I advise you that the "original shape" of Borsalino is really hard to change.
You can do that, but most of the time there is a deformation of the hat.
If not all these posts must be removed to an appropriate thread that exist in the Lounge ;)

I see your point. 98% of my lids are Borsalino. But I went ahead and deleted my entries.
 

Pellie

One Too Many
Messages
1,641
Location
Enschede, Netherlands
Borsalino Alessandria in i guess color moss from the '90's according to @steur Pictures from the seller.
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Randall Renshaw

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,082
Location
Nahunta, Ga.
Borsalinos are great hats. No doubt.
I have more than a few that I’m proud to own and will never sell.
However, any vintage hat that’s been mistreated by previous owners or the ravages of time, or harsh environs needs reworking. Even Borsalinos.
Besides, in my experience working with various brands and blends of vintage felts rabbit/hare fur can sometimes shrink more than other types. Though Borsa made phenomenal felts their hats are not impervious to degradation and some unfortunates need a full restoration, while others only need a small stretch so the new owner can wear it with comfort.

I believe in vintage felt hat preservation.
As a hat restorer and sometimes recreationist I hope the FL is big enough for all lovers of hats.

No one said anything in recent previous posts deserving banishment to another thread.
Please don’t allow cancel culture to take root here, or in any thread, no matter how attached to a hat brand one might be.
 
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Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,215
Location
Verona - Italia
No one said anything in this thread deserving banishment to another thread.
Rendall, I do not want anyone to be banned to write how and when to enlarge a hat and describe thetools and techniques to do so, there are in this regard an excellent series of technical interventions and not on the threads dedicated to this topic . This was my invitation, nothing more.
If anyone felt offended, I'm sorry
 

Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,215
Location
Verona - Italia
Please don’t allow cancel culture to take root here, or in any thread, no matter how attached to a hat brand one might be.
This part hadn't appeared previously in your post, probably the update made some delay in showing all the text you wrote.
It seems to me that you are exaggerating the "culture of cancellation".
Borsalino is one of the many Italian brands that have built hats over time, it's not mine and I don't even have any interests in it.
It is not a question of nationalism or chauvinism and just a matter of writing in the appropriate threads. No more, no less
 

Randall Renshaw

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,082
Location
Nahunta, Ga.
Let's say we have a different conception of the word inappropriate...
This might be a definition of inappropriate:
Spending unnecessary words policing this thread then cluttering it up with obvious defensive comebacks (that would likely have no end) than what was briefly posted about stretching a Borsalino.
How ‘bout you let the bartenders tend threads.
As a matter of fact, after this last post I hope they see fit to erase both of our ramblings.
If not, I’m done with this waste no matter what you say afterward.

I know you’ve been here a while and think you can know when a thread needs intervention.
My two year presence won’t account for tenure, but to most anyone it’s obvious that you’ve woefully jumped the gun in this instance.
 
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Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,215
Location
Verona - Italia
Randall I don't have to defend or justify myself.
I don't need a censor to forbid me from saying what I think.
Bartenders can do whatever they want, according to the rules
 
Messages
18,378
Location
Nederland

Mean Eyed Matt

One Too Many
Messages
1,142
Location
Germany
From the big Nordic Christmas package -
so not really "new" to me, but not shown here yet:

Borsalino Homburg in the well-known dark blue "MIRTILLO" = "Blueberry"
open crown at 14.0 cm; centre dent at 11.5 cm; brim at 5.5 cm
"Imported by Emil Kjølner Tønsberg" - near Oslo/Norway
The "cerrated roll" type label (as I learned recently) dates this to the 60s

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Deeeluxe Definitely

One of the Regulars
Messages
128
I'm thinking of maybe picking this up off eBay as it seems a decent price, and I've cleaned and refurbished hats to decent effect in the past. I got a Borsalino off eBay before labeled 7 1/4 [58], and it was too small despite that being my usual size (head circumference is 58.3cm). So I think this 7 3/8 should fit.

I contacted the seller, and it's my preferred brim width (hard to find), but it doesn't say any of the "Antica Casa" or "Original House" or anything other than what is pictured. In the description they say it might be a pocket hat.

Is the only thing that makes it a women's hat the fact that the bow is on the wrong side? If so, that's a non factor, as I plan to replace the ribbon with something slightly wider (1 ½" or 1 ⅝") anyway.

Do you guys think this would be a decent hat? Price is good, but it needs fixing up. As long as it's not wool and not really modern, I think it sounds good.

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