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The B-3 appreciation society …

KENNYW

Familiar Face
Messages
52
Location
LONG BEACH,NY
Aero's B-3 Sheepskin Jacket

Does anyone own Aero's B-3 repro?Any pics?How well is it made?It look's great on their website but I would like to hear from someone who actually own's one.;)
 

gimmesomeshelte

Familiar Face
Messages
79
Location
San Carlos, CA
Hello-

A number of years ago I read some compare/contrast comments from some people who owned a number of different military sheepskin jackets. Repro B-3, Irvin, etc. If my memory serves me correctly, they opined that a B-3 can be a bit bulky for some tastes. If you want something you can move around in, you might consider the D-1 or B-6.

I've never tried one on, buy my favorite is the Irvin.

Paul-
 

JWG

Familiar Face
Messages
60
Agreed it's bulky, but far warmer than the D1 or B6, etc. 10 degree weather needs just a tshirt underneath!
 

KENNYW

Familiar Face
Messages
52
Location
LONG BEACH,NY
WPG's B-3 Sheepskin Jacket

I came across What Price Glory's website and they have a B-3 jacket for $325.00.Does anyone own or seen one of them.The picture on the website looks pretty good.[huh]
 
Fitting a Shearling/Sheepskin

I'm intrigued by several sheepskin coats on ebay, but need to know how much "extra room" one should allow for in the chest measurement (ie, how much room does the fleece take up?).

I'm more or less a 42L (actually 41L). I see that nominally size 42 sheepskins on ebay have chest measurements (pit-to-pit, measured flat) of anywhere from 46" to the mid 50s. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Sardou
 

Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
Messages
13,719
Location
USA
Sardou said:
how much room does the fleece take up.

The amount of fleece can very greatly depending on the cut of the hide. I have shearlings with fleece ranging from 1/4 inch to 1-1/2 inches in thickness. I don't think the size variance would be more than one size, say 42(thin)-43(thick). The cut is more important as some shearlings are generously cut.

Try to measure a coat that fits you well and apply those numbers to the prospective coat.
 

Muzz

New in Town
Messages
36
Location
Foot of the Flatirons
Holy Sheepskin Batman! -repair question-

Hello all,

First post here, I like the site. I have a repair question: I got a lower end sheepskin B3 for a fair price on ebay. The whole jacket is great, real thick wool with strong hide except for one panel. There are a couple of holes where I guess the animal's skin was just thinner and wore through. I'm wondering how to repair these holes. I've seen leather repair kits using compounds you spread about over a cut, but these are worn holes with missing material. Would these compounds work or should I find a couple of paches for them? Or just let it go since they are small holes and I like the jacket anyway?

Also, I'd like to know the maker of this jacket, the collar tag says "made in turkey" and it has this phoney label in it too.
label.jpg
Sorry for the bad pics.

Thanks for any feedback folks,

-Muzz

jacketfrnt.jpg


hole1.jpg


hole2.jpg
 

Muzz

New in Town
Messages
36
Location
Foot of the Flatirons
Thats what I thought. I'm always a little OCD over things I like. I'll use the holes as an excuse with the old lady to sell one of my kidneys and get an eastman B6!
 

Smithy

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,139
Location
Norway
I wouldn't worry too much about it either. They're not major holes and remember a lot of the original jackets got scratches and holes from moving around in aircraft and catching the jacket on objects.

I'd leave it as is. If they get bigger get them fixed.
 

renor27

One of the Regulars
Messages
212
Location
Reno Nevada
rapair questions

This is kind of on the topic so will ask:
I got a great 1950's german leather double breasted jacket, looks like the pattern was from the 1930s just two problems. First the color a very bad dark green. The 2nd the arms are just a tad short. Now the good news there is pleant of leather to have the sleaves let out and would be happy for the jacket to be died black.
Any one know of a shop that can do this work. I have looked around my area with NO Luck :mad:
Thanks for any help in this matter.
David
 

greyhound68

A-List Customer
Messages
362
Location
Manteca, CA
Muzz said:
Thats what I thought. I'm always a little OCD over things I like. I'll use the holes as an excuse with the old lady to sell one of my kidneys and get an eastman B6!

Get the B-6. I have a RMNZ and it is a fantastic jacket. The Eastman is pretty good also. Saw an Aero B-3 today and it was fantastic. So I am sure their B-6 is pretty good too.
 

Muzz

New in Town
Messages
36
Location
Foot of the Flatirons
Yeah, I'm going to have to find a used B6, in a 44 to boot, I'll just keep on waiting and hunting! That is half the fun though isn't it? ;) I know of Aero and Eastman, but what is RMNZ?
 

MikeyB17

One of the Regulars
Messages
181
Location
Cornwall, UK
Real McCoys, New Zealand. Currently knocking out some of the best repro flight jackets around if what I've read recently is to be believed-a lot of guys I know have them and speak very highly of them, though I've yet to nab one myself. Here's their frankly lousy website, don't be put off, their customer service lady, Paddy, has an excellent reputation, and they do a heck of a lot more than their website would suggest. One of these days I plan on getting one of their 'Real McQueen' A-2s.

http://www.realmccoys.co.nz/cat01.html

MB-17
 

fishmeok

Vendor
Messages
759
Location
minneapolis
Help! Trying to sew sheepskin...

(Paddy, if this should be in another forum please let me know)

I need some advice- I'm trying to modify my US Authentic B-3 to make more "authentic" . I started on the cuffs, modifying them from being the same size as the sleeve to the correct B-3 smaller cuff with shorter fleece. Oddly, the cuffs ARE constructed separate from the sleeve, they are just not reduced in diameter. I removed the cuffs and opened up the sleeve seam on the right arm and sewed the new cuff on without any problem, but for some reason I cannot make the left cuff work at all. I'm having trouble feeding it through and making the stitches consistent. Damn near ruined the thing.

This has been a problem with my other jacket projects as well, I know most of it is because I am trying to make household machines do the work of a specialized industrial. I'm tired of this and need some advice on the best machine to get, or tricks to make it work on a smaller machine. I've been thinking about a walking foot or a teflon presser foot, but I would have to get a different sewing machine for that anyway (nobody makes them for my antique White FR), so I might as well get the right damn machine while I'm at it.
Cheers
Mark

Original Cuff

DSCN2995.jpg
DSCN2994.jpg


Original cuff and what the planned result is:

DSCN3035.jpg


Original cuff removed

DSCN3027.jpg


Sewing

DSCN3037.jpg
DSCN3038.jpg


First cuff done- the stitching is better than it looks, there is some tape under the thread I have to remove. I laid down a line of scotch tape to try and keep the leather side from sticking to the presser foot.

DSCN3040.jpg
 

HDRnR

A-List Customer
Messages
362
Location
Jersey
Man, you are hardcore ! I actually had to sew a ripped vintage ANJ4 I had that got ripped across the back when someone grabbed me in a bar brawl. I did it by hand, came out pretty nice given how bad it was.
 

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