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The 1950s Suit

Sefton

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Somewhere among the owls in Maryland
The 1950s Suit; What makes it different?


Many of us here at the Lounge seem to have a great passion for men’s suits from the 1930s and 1940s. I count myself among those who really love that look of those eras. They seem to have had style to spare in those decades-wonderful patterns, the tapered waist on jackets, the peaked lapels and belted backs. High prices are often paid for a suit in good condition from back then. Suits from those decades are likely the most sought after among collectors and wearers of vintage, but what about the suits of the 1950s?

It was while watching "The White Sheik" by Fellini that I began to think of this. I love movies from the 1950s, especially foreign films. I find myself often watching Italian and French films from that era. Comedies, drama, noir, Italian Neo-Realist and French New Wave. In many of these films I am taken by the beauty of the suits and how they change throughout the decade of the 1950s. My basic question is what exactly makes a ‘50s suit a 50s suit?

I’ve noticed that the wider lapels of the late 1940s carry over to the early ‘50s. Trousers are still high waisted and fully cut-wide legged with deep pleats and cuffed ends. As the decade nears it’s end the suits change in some obvious and other perhaps not so obvious ways. The jackets become more close fitting and so do the trousers. I see less cuffs on trouser ends and the lapels become much thinner leading to the 60s love of the super thin lapels and pegged leg look.

What is the evolution of the ‘50s suit and what are the differences between those made in America and the British variety? What about the Italian and French design? Which designers can be credited with these changes? Would anyone be interested in posting some photos of ‘50s suits from their own collection or perhaps examples from films or magazines?

I’ve found some answers to these questions in various threads. I think it might be useful if we could give the ‘50s suit it’s own area. Collect the information for easy reference in one spot. It doesn’t have to be this particular thread, I just wanted to put the idea out to see what people think of it. Thanks for reading this. Best regards, Sefton.

 

Jay

Practically Family
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New Jersey
I wish I could contribute to this. Alas, my knowledge is not that vast. Perhaps someone could further expand on Mr. Seftons inquiry?
 

Marc Chevalier

Gone Home
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Los Feliz, Los Angeles, California
I can't speak for the British variety, but here's some information on American suits in the 1950s.


The early '50s continued to sell "Bold Look" (or "T") suits, the jackets of which were drapey, large-lapelled, low-buttoning, and with broad, padded shoulders. By the the mid-'50s, the lapels were beginning to narrow on these suits. The later '50s gave rise to the Italian "Continental" suit, whose jacket had more rounded shoulders, a more tubular shape, narrower sleeves, a shorter length, and higher-rise buttons. The trousers, while still worn high, generally had only two pleats, or none at all; they were more tubular (though by no means as narrow as '60s "stovepipe" pants) and tapered to a slightly narrow ankle width. Materials changed, too: gone were the thick gabardines and worsteds of earlier suits. Continental suit fabrics were lightweight and often had rayon or even nylon woven into them. Sharkskin and other silky, silvery sheens began to appear. Truth be told, Sean Connery's suits in Dr. No look more "Continental" than Savile Row.


Continental suits were very handsome, well-cut, and well-fitting. Alas, their heyday was short: by the mid '60s, they'd been supplanted by extremely narrow "Beatles-style" suits. Today, it's more difficult to find a genuine vintage Continental suit than an earlier Bold Look suit.



.
 

herringbonekid

I'll Lock Up
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East Sussex, England
it's pretty much the same story in england but without so much emphasis on the 'bold' look. the 40s demob shape of suit (wide trousers, neat jacket) carried on into the mid 50s with the jackets loosening up a touch, button stance moving down a touch, jackets getting a bit longer, fabric getting lighter weight. then by '57 the slim italian influence starts to kick in and i lose interest.
 
My favorite suit.

I'm going to date this to 50 -55 based on the cut and pattern. I'va had a lot of suits come and go through the years, but this has always been my favorite (okay, tied with a demob that didn't fit and that a fellow lounger now owns).

What I've noticed about 50s suits is that the three buttons were cut so that that the bottom button could be buttoned. Look at how long the line is from bottom button to hem. If you you left it unbuttoned, the line unbroken line would be far too long - the whole jacket would flop around in the wind.

50suitcopy.jpg


How can you tell a 50s suit? CROSSHATCH AND FLECKTONES!!!!

Picture002.jpg


Regards,

Senator Jack
 

Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
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USA
The North By Northwest Suit Was The Quintessential "Transitional" Suit.

Annex20-20Grant20Cary_08.jpg


north_by_northwest.jpg
 

Sefton

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Thanks for the informative posts gentlemen. That suit is really nice Senator Jack. As for the Cary Grant pictures...I sometimes think someone should put together a book that was filled with nothing but photographs of Grant throughout his career and call it "How to Dress".
 

Tomasso

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Cary Grant: A Celebration of Style.

Sefton said:
As for the Cary Grant pictures...I sometimes think someone should put together a book that was filled with nothing but photographs of Grant throughout his career and call it "How to Dress".

It's been done and you can buy it here. Also, here's a FL thread which discusses the book.
 
Deckard and I have been trying to work out THE GREAT ARMHOLE SHIFT. When did it happen? Why did it happen? Who was responsible?

Seems to me high armholes were the norm till the late 70s. There was a shift in there somewhere, but I can't place it. I've been planning to go out and try on, of all things, 70s leisure suits to see if I can find where this trend began. I'm thinking the leisure suit kicked things off, but I won't know till I get the testing under way.

So, yes, 50s suits have high armholes. If someone has a low one, I'd like to see pics of it. Perhaps we can sort out where it all went wrong.

Here's another 50s long line suit. Yes, the chest is a bit big on me (it's vintage, what are you gonna do?) and I've since had the sleeves taken up, but you get the idea. Again, high armholes.

jackstepsai7.jpg


Regards,

Senator Jack
 

katiemakeup

Practically Family
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822
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NYC/L.A.
Senator Jack said:
My favorite suit.

I'm going to date this to 50 -55 based on the cut and pattern. I'va had a lot of suits come and go through the years, but this has always been my favorite (okay, tied with a demob that didn't fit and that a fellow lounger now owns).

What I've noticed about 50s suits is that the three buttons were cut so that that the bottom button could be buttoned. Look at how long the line is from bottom button to hem. If you you left it unbuttoned, the line unbroken line would be far too long - the whole jacket would flop around in the wind.

50suitcopy.jpg


How can you tell a 50s suit? CROSSHATCH AND FLECKTONES!!!!

Picture002.jpg


Regards,

Senator Jack


Beautiful suit! You look very handsome!
 

matei

One Too Many
Messages
1,022
Location
England
I picked up a late fifties suit on eBay not too long ago. I haven't tried it on yet because it emitted a most unpleasant funk, but several trips to the drycleaners seems to have alleviated the problem.

It might be a wee bit large. The trousers are high waisted, and the jacket is a two-button. The armholes look to be reasonably large, but not the lazy portholes I've seen on some newer jackets.

I'll try it on tonight or tomorrow and post some pics. I'm just a bit turned off trying it on because of the former odour, however it seems to have gone away. I'm afraid that I'll be infected with some exotic fungus or skin condition from wearing it! :(
 

herringbonekid

I'll Lock Up
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6,016
Location
East Sussex, England
these late 50s suits....continental or transitional or whatever you want to call them.... they just look a bit bland to me. no offence to anyone here who favours the style, it's just my personal taste. there's just something very generic and safe about the overall proportion and features. no one part of the suit stands out as interesting. seems as if they're for people who don't want you to notice the fact that they're wearing a suit at all.
 

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