Taper on Half Belts vs Cafe Racer

[kronos77]

Is it always the case that half belt jackets have less taper than the cafe racer? I am talking Aero specifically. Pictures seem to show this to be the case, but I never had a half belt myself. How much difference is there and can the side adjusters on the half belt be tightened to the point that the waist measurement is the same? Is it wise to either let out the cafe racewr at the sides if it is too tight or to have the half belt made woth a taper to make up the difference if I feel the Hb is too boxy?

 

[handymike]

The Aero 50's Halfbelt is boxier than the 30's one. The premium is slimmer than the regular 30's, but I don't think it's meant to be a skin-tight type of jacket. The pleats in the back allow it to blouse a bit.

 

[kronos77]

The Aero 50's Halfbelt is boxier than the 30's one. The premium is slimmer than the regular 30's, but I don't think it's meant to be a skin-tight type of jacket. The pleats in the back allow it to blouse a bit.

I have heard people say the 30s HB is an athletic fit, which to me means tapered havily from shoulders to waist, but it seems they may just mean it is a skinnier fit, not athletic.

 

[handymike]

I think you are correct. Athletic as compared to the fit of a Highwayman or Teamster for instance. I think the descriptions were written before we started asking for slimmer jackets and sizing down to accommodate larger cut styles.

 

[pawineguy]

And you are correct in that you can let out a Cafe Racer, I have done that successfully with a couple of jackets and not lost the proper proportions.

 

[Seb Lucas]

The term athletic means different things to different people. I wouldn't compare a cafe racer fit to a half belt myself and I also think taper on a jacket can look a bit Style Forum if you're not careful. Some cafe racers have minimal taper and for me a halfbelt should not have so much taper that it's notable.

 

[ProteinNerd]

In my experience the waist measurement of Aero cafe racers is definitely smaller than that on the same sized 30's half belt.

 

[pawineguy]

In my experience the waist measurement of Aero cafe racers is definitely smaller than that on the same sized 30's half belt.

My experience also.

 

[kronos77]

Some cafe racers have minimal taper and for me a halfbelt should not have so much taper that it's notable.

Someone on this forum, I don't remember who, posted pictures of his half belt that he had tapered to avoid the blousy effect of the belt or side fasteners. I remember being impressed , though he didn't post many pictures of it. MAybe it ended up working for him, maybe not.

 

[Sockeye]

The term athletic means different things to different people. I wouldn't compare a cafe racer fit to a half belt myself and I also think taper on a jacket can look a bit Style Forum if you're not careful. Some cafe racers have minimal taper and for me a halfbelt should not have so much taper that it's notable.

I agree with Seb. I'll also add that a cafe racer meant for riding is supposed to be tight around the waist to keep it in place in the event you go down on the bike, while still having room to move in the shoulders. More narrow shoulders and a larger waist is probably more comfortable for casual wear and taken on a spectrum moves you towards a half belt, then to a highwayman. Like others I have had a Sheene built with extra room below the armpits to make it more comfortable but still keeping a cafe racer silhouette. Many ways to a happy result.

 

[Fanch]

I agree with Seb. Like others I have had a Sheene built with extra room below the armpits to make it more comfortable but still keeping a cafe racer silhouette. Many ways to a happy result.

My experience with my Sheene too. If I used a Sheene for riding, I would have retained shoulder gussets and added maybe another 3/4" to body and sleeves.

 

[Carlos840]

I don't think you can't taper both! I am very V shaped, and if a jacket isn't tapered it looks like a bag on me!
I have a custom AL Cafe Racer, and i had to have it tapered more than it already was, i also have an ELMC Californian, which is a half belt. Both have the same shoulders, chest and bottom hem measurements.
I would not buy a jakcet that wasn't tapered at the waist to suit my body type.

 

[Sockeye]

I don't think you can't taper both! I am very V shaped, and if a jacket isn't tapered it looks like a bag on me!
I have a custom AL Cafe Racer, and i had to have it tapered more than it already was, i also have an ELMC Californian, which is a half belt. Both have the same shoulders, chest and bottom hem measurements.
I would not buy a jakcet that wasn't tapered at the waist to suit my body type.

Sometimes it's not he jacket, it's the hangar that makes it look good!

 

[kronos77]

Carlos, I have a similar issue--a decent drop from chest to waist, for my height at least. I do sometimes worry that the strong taper can be, as someone put it, "a bit Style Forum". On the other hand, the baggy look doesn't suit me. I need to find the balance.

 

[Fanch]

Carlos, you have a helluva collection, all of which seem to fit you perfectly. We all hate you since none of the rest of us seem to achieve that perfect fit you seem to have with virtually everything.

 

[Carlos840]

Thanks guys, my point is, there are no rules! Just buy what fits your body or modify it to fit...
I have 20" shoulders, 42" chest and 33" waist, if something isn't tapered, it looks like crap.

I have bought enough jackets to know that anything with more than 21" bottom hem will look like a bag on me, 20" is the sweet spot. In my experience, 1" more or less in the chest or back isn't a big deal, but 1" more at the waist instantly looks bad.
So i just make sure that anything i buy that fits my shoulders (i aim for 19.5" shoulders and 23" pit to pit") doens't have more than 21" bottom hem, thats it.
Sleeve length and back length can vary the most, i have back and sleeves between 25" and 27" and they all look fine.