Tailor Made 40's Suit Feedback

[Viktor]

Gents

I’m in the process of ordering a tailor made brown double breasted suit to compliment my Whippets. I see many nice samples on this tread that I can use as a reference.

I am thinking more of a traditional 40’s classy look with large lapels, slit pockets, completely vent-less, shoulders gently padded to add some bulk without making the suit look unnatural.

Am I on the right track?

What is the lapel width of a 40’s suit? The tailor recommended no more than 5 inches.

Do you prefer wearing loose fitting vs tapered?

 

[Nick D]

High waist isn't gangster, it's good fit. If you haven't worn trousers up at your waist before I highly recommend it.

I like a fitted jacket and trousers about that are about 10" wide at the cuffs. I think the tailor is right about lapel width. There are several threads about width floating around the FL, which should give you more detailed guidance. Make sure to specify a wide overlap, modern db jackets have very little overlap and the buttons are consequently much closer together than they were in the '40s.

 

[Viktor]

After a little goggling, high waist with suspenders is the way to go, Nick D - thanks for the tip "wide overlap"

Maybe something like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/40s-Double-Brea...pt=Vintage_Men_s_Clothing&hash=item5d2c15cb9d

 

[Matt_the_chap]

Personally, I'd prefer to go for 5.5" or maybe even 6" lapels - I spotted it on an eBay auction that I didn't put on watch due to size differences and thought it looked quite good. I suppose it'd depend on shoulder width though.

 

[Viktor]

Is 13.5 too high for the front rise?

 

[Viktor]

Disregard the front rise question, I found the answer here

 

[Baron Kurtz]

The tailor, when he's measuring you up, should be able to answer all such questions for himself. Just tell him where you want the trousers waist to sit, and he'll take that into account. Rise, of course, is entirely down to the body of the individual for whom the trousers are being made.

But also the style. On older British trousers, for example, the rear rise is often many inches longer than the front rise, due to the "fishtail" construction of the rear of the trousers.

bk

 

[Danny Ocean]

Gents

I’m in the process of ordering a tailor made brown double breasted suit to compliment my Whippets. I see many nice samples on this tread that I can use as a reference.

I am thinking more of a traditional 40’s classy look with large lapels, slit pockets, completely vent-less, shoulders gently padded to add some bulk without making the suit look unnatural.

Am I on the right track?

What is the lapel width of a 40’s suit? The tailor recommended no more than 5 inches.

Do you prefer wearing loose fitting vs tapered?

Viktor,

It's all down to personal choice, when having a bespoke suit made for you. Whilst you can keep to the 40's style, you don't have to necessarily follow it to the letter. What suits (excuse the pun), one man, may not look correct on another; the trouser rise, for example.

Early double breasted suits, were without vents, but with their re-emergance decades later, they were produced, usually, with two side vents; not my personal choice, to be honest.

In terms of cloth colour, your choice of brown, is definitely the right one, be it plain, herringbone, chalk stripe etc.

I would certainly recommend a high rise trouser, that sits on the waist, and worn with braces (suspenders). Another thing to consider also, is the trouser leg width, and turn-up (hem) depth. They were a lot baggier, and in my opinion more comfortable, and the turn-up was deeper; 1" 3/4" would be about right. I also think that if you're wearing braces with your trousers, then there is no need for a belt, or the belt loops. It gives a tidier appearance without them, and simple side adjuster button straps are all that is required.

I had a sports jacket and trouser ensemble, tailored for me last year, based around a 40's style. The jacket is a single breasted, two button, dark brown and fawn, "dogtooth" check, with single centre vent, additional ticket pocket, and "workable" cuff buttons. The trousers are in a taupe colour, high rise, baggy fit, button fly, for use with braces.

Here's a couple of pics:

Whatever you decide to go with, take your time. A trip to your tailor, or should I say trips to your tailor, should be an enjoyable experience, and one to savour. I know I spend hours at a time, when visiting mine!

Keep us posted, I'd be very interested to see the finished results.

Cheers,

Danny O

 

[Danny Ocean]

Gents

I’m in the process of ordering a tailor made brown double breasted suit to compliment my Whippets. I see many nice samples on this tread that I can use as a reference.

I am thinking more of a traditional 40’s classy look with large lapels, slit pockets, completely vent-less, shoulders gently padded to add some bulk without making the suit look unnatural.

Am I on the right track?

What is the lapel width of a 40’s suit? The tailor recommended no more than 5 inches.

Do you prefer wearing loose fitting vs tapered?

Hi Viktor,

Following my earlier post, here's a couple of pics from one of my books, that may assist you further. The suits worn by Calvin Klein and Frank Sinatra, could be from the same era, but in reality, they are forty years apart!

Cheers,

Danny O

 

[GBR]

Is 13.5 too high for the front rise?

No

 

[YETI]

The suits are similar, but the lapels on Ol' Blue Eyes' suit extend about an inch more.

 

[Viktor]

Hi Viktor,

Following my earlier post, here's a couple of pics from one of my books, that may assist you further. The suits worn by Calvin Klein and Frank Sinatra, could be from the same era, but in reality, they are forty years apart!

Cheers,

Danny O

May I ask which book this is?

I haven't thought about belt loops, definitely no belt loops - thanks for the tips.

 

[Johnny J]

Viktor, I think you should go with the belt loops, even though you will wear suspenders. You might change your mind later, and then there is no way of remaking those loops! Also, consider puting the two back suspender buttons on the outside like they would do in the 1940's. Sometimes they would put all the buttons on the outside.

 

[Johnny J]

Oh yeah, and definetlly drop the belt loops at least a 1/2 inch from top. Maybe get the hollywood waist also?

 

[Viktor]

Hopefully the tailor will know what to do when I convey this info, he's been in business on Okinawa since the 50's.

 

[Widebrim]

Viktor, I think you should go with the belt loops, even though you will wear suspenders. You might change your mind later, and then there is no way of remaking those loops! Also, consider puting the two back suspender buttons on the outside like they would do in the 1940's. Sometimes they would put all the buttons on the outside.

Oh yeah, and definetlly drop the belt loops at least a 1/2 inch from top. Maybe get the hollywood waist also?

100% agree.

 

[Widebrim]

What a great photograph. The jacket on the man on the extreme right especially looks like a modern cut.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

May I ask which book this is?

I haven't thought about belt loops, definitely no belt loops - thanks for the tips.

:arated:

I only have "One Hundred Years of Menswear" from Cally Blackman who also compares different decades. But this pages are not in it.

 

[Viktor]

hollywood waist

 

[skyvue]

Actually, it's been my understanding that a Hollywood waist, unlike the trousers in that picture, has no waistband.

Do I have that right?