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Tabletop Hatters of The Lounge

Dm101

A-List Customer
Messages
496
Location
Maryland
There are MANY goofball hatters that just buy the fancy equipment and kick out the same old standard boring hats that don't look or feel any different than the 10 million that are already available.

But then you have homebrew hatters that make hats that stand out because they put innovation, improvisation, heart and soul into their hats and not just money.

[start opinion]
In my opinion, even if you just make a few original hats to start with...that's worlds better than 10,000 of the cookie-cutter hats. But the world is a lot stupider than it used to be and more and more people refuse to think for themselves. Those types wouldn't venture to even consider wearing a real hat, they wear baseball caps and aim to look exactly like everyone else.
[/end opinion]
 

Hat and Rehat

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,444
Location
Denver
All you really need is a block(s) and flange(s). You can probably improvise the rest. You will not get the same quality results as those with the specialized tools, but you can make a wearable hat without too much of an investment. Sweatbands and brim binding can be sewn on by hand, a tea kettle can be used for steam, a standard clothes iron can be put to use, etc. Still, if you want to do all the common sizes you will need to spend a few thousand dollars at a minimum. After that, you have to make your way in a market with some great hatters selling hats at very reasonable prices. It’s something you need to have a passion for. Some of the hatters take on apprentices or just temporary employees where you can learn the trade and the tricks. What I just don’t get is the new hatter who is learning his/her trade and offering hats at the same price (or even more) than the established masters who have all the specialized equipment and knowledge. When a new hatter starts out, particularly if they are doing it on the cheap, their prices should reflect their knowledge, investment, and brand recognition. There have been a few new hatters that I’ve thought to try, but for the price of their hats I could get a custom from a recognized master. And it’s not just the name brand, I can get a better hat for the same or less by going with the established hatter. There is always room at the top, but it seems like a labor of love for most rather than a significant profit making proposition. Good luck.


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I'm unlikely to er in that direction,deadlyhandsom. The main reason I presently am an employee, for bosses that pay me a wage, is that I'm too nice to be my own boss. I did very well paid by the piece, .
Putting together a realistic bid , buying materials,, etc. .... I never marked my pricing up as much as I should have.

However, what is a 'renovated' hat worth? If I get a nice deal on a fur felt hat , say eBay, then clean it, reshape it, replace the aged sweat, and also turn it into something more modern with a new band and bow, what is it worth? What should I ask?

I'm reworking wool hats to learn. I buy them at the thrift store, toss them in some water, then have a 'hood' to stretch and shape. What should I ask for something like that?
 

jlee562

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,101
Location
San Francisco, CA
Take a look at the services offered by hatters. Sweatband replacement runs $35-$50 typically.

There are lots of folks out there already on etsy and what not, trying to leech off the Fouquet aesthetic. Personally, I would not pay what these folks are asking for "renovated" hats.

But I am just one guy with an opinion, not the consensus of hat buyers everywhere.
 
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
I'm unlikely to er in that direction,deadlyhandsom. The main reason I presently am an employee, for bosses that pay me a wage, is that I'm too nice to be my own boss. I did very well paid by the piece, .
Putting together a realistic bid , buying materials,, etc. .... I never marked my pricing up as much as I should have.

However, what is a 'renovated' hat worth? If I get a nice deal on a fur felt hat , say eBay, then clean it, reshape it, replace the aged sweat, and also turn it into something more modern with a new band and bow, what is it worth? What should I ask?

I'm reworking wool hats to learn. I buy them at the thrift store, toss them in some water, then have a 'hood' to stretch and shape. What should I ask for something like that?

I’ve sent more of my refurb work to VS than to any other hatter. Here are his prices:
https://vscustomhats.com/services/

As for buying vintage hats and fixing them up on speculation, there are a few people already doing this and I get the impression they don’t sell all that many hats. Most collectors would rather have a faded liners and a deteriorated leather sweatband if they are original over the best replacements available. Sometimes hats need work and repairs or we convert westerns into fedoras and hats need to be reblocked and sweatbands replaces, but I don't know how much work you would have.
 

Hat and Rehat

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,444
Location
Denver
I’ve sent more of my refurb work to VS than to any other hatter. Here are his prices:
https://vscustomhats.com/services/

As for buying vintage hats and fixing them up on speculation, there are a few people already doing this and I get the impression they don’t sell all that many hats. Most collectors would rather have a faded liners and a deteriorated leather sweatband if they are original over the best replacements available. Sometimes hats need work and repairs or we convert westerns into fedoras and hats need to be reblocked and sweatbands replaces, but I don't know how much work you would have.

Thanks. That's food for thought. My instincts seem to have steered me in that direction. I haven't shared pictures yet because my newest laptop needs USB drivers, but I did get one of my old ones back in action, so will use it, and post some soon.
I posted a few weeks ago about landing a Champ on eBay for $12 with free shipping. The seller had smashed it flat for envelope shipping, per another bidder that I seem to have beat out at the wire, and I was given the chance to back out. I declined. As soon as I popped it into shape out of the packaging I started to see that I had done exceptionally well. It's a brown hat with ribbon band and brim binding a shade or two lighter than the hat. The bow is similar to the one on my two Stetson Royal Deluxe, and on my beater wool Scala that I work in, and on other hats I've purchased since, but very nicely done. It's longer, with more separation between the double bows in back, and the center "knot" is different. The grosgrain lines are horizontal, and ribbon edges meet in the center to form a vertical line (I will be imitating this in the future). It also has a wind cord with a button on the bow. I actually have no idea how you use that, but I can see that it is a quality feature of the hat. The edge binding is bigger than many I've seen, about 3/8" showing on the brim and underbrim. By the time I had fully brushed out the significant dust I realized that there wasn't a single flaw in the felt, and that the flange was still excellent. the sweat band is still supple, and the lining is held in by tapes that appear to be fabric. The only flaws I can find are two very small black dots in the satin. I'll need to look at them with a magnifying glass, but suspect they're tiny burns from a cigar or cigarette ash falling into the hat. The crown is 5" in a #52 shape, a bit higher toward the back, and the brim 2 1/4". With the crown open and the brim snapped up it has a very Homburg feel, but with less roll to the brim It's a beautiful hat, and .... it ISN'T MY SIZE!
[I don't know WTH happened, but the end of my post vanished. Grrrrr. I said I needed to get to work, but would talk about another Champ I ordered after being so pleased with this one tonight, and would provide pictures.]
 
Last edited:

Hat and Rehat

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,444
Location
Denver
I lost the end of that post yesterday morning. What I added about the $12 Champ was that I realized I shouldn't change anything about that hat. If it did fit me, and I was keeping it for myself, I wouldn't touch it, other than to decide on a bash.

I just tried to upload a picture of it. The file is too large for the server. I'll figure that out later.

Champ #2 is a 7 1/8, my size, and I bought it intending to keep it for myself if it compared to the first one. It wasn't very expensive either, and might have been offered as a Buy Now. I'll have to check my records. The description was sparse, but it was identified as a brown, Champ fedora with an upturned brim, good shape, but signs of age.

HOLY S#*T! I JUST LOST ANOTHER BLOCK OF TEXT. A REALLY BIG ONE! AN HOUR'S EFFORT, CONSIDERING TIME SPENT MEASURING. I'M TICKED OFF, AND WILL HAVE TO COME BACK TO THIS.

I seem to have a couple of computer issues at the Lounge. Am I alone in this? My cursor often jumps backwards in my text while typing in the dialog boxes. Also, though this is extremely rare while visiting other sites, if I have multiple open windows I get the yellow message in my task bar that a text/site is slowing down my connection.
 

Hat and Rehat

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,444
Location
Denver
This is a test. Can Hat and Rehat, A) successfuly share pictures of the two hats he's been describing. b)keep from going completely bats%.&t if it doesnt worrom his phone, a mobile d78evice
 
Last edited:

bond

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,535
Location
Third coast
After steaming and shaping for the last two days I think I finally got it close to where I like the fit. This one is around a 60s vintage and felt is damn nice. It was a 3/8 so I resized it up to fit 1/2. Brim is s full 3 5/8 .
I’ve been looking for another wide brim to add for summer wear and I decided this could work if I put in a vented sweat. The felt is pretty substantial but still pliable. Have decided if I’ll change ribbon yet.
Thanks Harry Dobson for a fine hat!
fa5d476e601c2134ef676b442de6e8cb.jpg
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264f3cdcaa589dc78d80787ff752bbcf.jpg




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Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,839
Location
Denmark
After steaming and shaping for the last two days I think I finally got it close to where I like the fit. This one is around a 60s vintage and felt is damn nice. It was a 3/8 so I resized it up to fit 1/2. Brim is s full 3 5/8 .
I’ve been looking for another wide brim to add for summer wear and I decided this could work if I put in a vented sweat. The felt is pretty substantial but still pliable. Have decided if I’ll change ribbon yet.
Thanks Harry Dobson for a fine hat!
fa5d476e601c2134ef676b442de6e8cb.jpg
d129d5358d11808b26e6763eb105c6ae.jpg

264f3cdcaa589dc78d80787ff752bbcf.jpg




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Nice style, great colour and shape. I wouldn't alter that wonderful thin ribbon, but it's your hat.

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Hat and Rehat

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,444
Location
Denver
I lost the end of that post yesterday morning. What I added about the $12 Champ was that I realized I shouldn't change anything about that hat. If it did fit me, and I was keeping it for myself, I wouldn't touch it, other than to decide on a bash.

I just tried to upload a picture of it. The file is too large for the server. I'll figure that out later.

Champ #2 is a 7 1/8, my size, and I bought it intending to keep it for myself if it compared to the first one. It wasn't very expensive either, and might have been offered as a Buy Now. .[/B]

Champ #1
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d9e3117c97d4809f0f851621af861936.jpg
ec1e575fae159938c9c066278e27e2ad.jpg


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Hat and Rehat

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,444
Location
Denver
Champ #2
b68a6661bf47966ef554a78c05dcb95a.jpg
10536bbbbf9bba65f4d1697345fab55f.jpg
09f4eb30f701dd0332a7330528037f5a.jpg
37c4de9a50f4f4f447ce5c2f90dfcc5a.jpg
82b6df2b2fbd2e7d15301ceac93c85b6.jpg
9fc622c8787e26938af022b23b81e535.jpg


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Turned out the color of #2 wasn't brown. It has shades of purple, and I think you'd call it oxeblood. Unfortunately, I was careless with the sweatband. After turning it in and out a few times I noticed it cracking along the stitches in front. I tried to gently fold it in, but it cracked on one side as I did so. I bought three reeded sweats when I last purchased them, so still have one.

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bond

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,535
Location
Third coast
Yes I understand your sentiment but I was wanting to duplicate my daily wearer for summer . I decided upon a 1/2 silk in pale grey that I’ve been saving. It goes really well with the color of this Resistol felt.
Here’s a getting ready to put the entire hat together after reshaping it yet again , but that’s another story. lol
IMG_5936.jpg



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