Super 120's vs. Super 80's?

[matei]

Hiya,

Does anyone know the difference between Super 120 and Super 80 material? Is Super 80 used in suit construction?

I have a suit from Super 120 wool, and although it is nice and soft - I feel it is too soft to be long wearing.

I've got some Super 80 in grey, and it is a bit heavier, coarser. I personally like the heavier-weight materials, the coarseness is fine with me.

 

[matei]

Okay - answered me own question - it has to do with the threads per square inch... I read that this is supposed to result in a "softer, lighter" fabric - however my Super 80 is heavier than the Super 120... odd...

 

[BellyTank]

You could say...

The higher the number, the finer the yarns, the tighter the weave- lighter and usually more costly.

Worsteds. The worst of the Worsteds

Bleah and Ptui!

B
T

 

[herringbonekid]

BT what have you got against worsteds or is it just modern worsteds ?

 

[skillbilly]

What exactly does worsteds mean anyway?

 

[scotrace]

Others have posted here in the past that "Super 120's" is a way to turn the negative of flimsy fabric into a positive through marketing.

 

[tofu]

i don't see what's wrong with 120. it seems to be the sweet spot for me. not too soft and not too rough.

 

[Matt Deckard]

I find the higher the num,ber the faster it will wear out.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I find the higher the number the faster it will wear out.

The higher the number, the faster my money runs out.

.

 

[Tomasso]

In both suiting and shirting, the high numbers are a suckers game.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Tell me about it. In the '80s, my dad bought some high thread count "sea island" cotton dress shirts from Turnbull & Asser and Hilditch & Key. They wore out very quickly where the collar folds down and where the french cuffs roll up. Also, the shirts were so tightly woven, they didn't wick out the body's humidity. The shirts became soaking wet with perspiration; stains resulted.

Of course, shirts this expensive are bought by wealthy folks who can replace them frequently without worrying about the cost. (My dad was an exception.)

.

 

[tofu]

In both suiting and shirting, the high numbers are a suckers game.

so, basically you're saying a softer wool is for "suckers"?
[huh]

 

[Tomasso]

so, basically you're saying a softer wool is for "suckers"?
[huh]

My point is that the numbers game is a marketing ploy devised to separate you from your money. The numbers don't speak to the quality of the fabric, there's some really crappy supers out there(the mill is much more important than numbers). I would add that they don't perform particularly well, can be problematic to make up and can be ridiculously expensive.

Having said that, I do own some 100's and 120's but I chose them in spite of their numbers and some don't even consider them supers anymore since the numbers game is in the 200's now.

 

[scotrace]

I believe that it is also difficult, if not impossible, to get such tightly woven (yet lightweight) fabric to drape properly.

 

[Tomasso]

You are correct, Sir!

I believe that it is also difficult, if not impossible, to get such tightly woven (yet lightweight) fabric to drape properly.

Oxxford resists making up the supers(over 100's) even though they own Holland&Sherry, a leading trafficker of supers. Several top tailors have said that the supers can't handle a lot of needle work and that they dread working with the stuff.

 

[skillbilly]

Several top tailors have said that the supers can't handle a lot of needle work and that they dread working with the stuff.

So what is FL recommendation with regards to fabrics, when one is having a suit tailored?

 

[Tomasso]

So what is FL recommendation with regards to fabrics, when one is having a suit tailored?

KISS

 

[skillbilly]

So what is FL recommendation with regards to fabrics, when one is having a suit tailored?

KISS

Am I missing something?

 

[BellyTank]

BT what have you got against worsteds or is it just modern worsteds ?

Well Worsteds, by nature(wool fibres in the yarns lie only parallel, thus avoiding the 'crimp' and bulk of 'woollens')can have a harder, smoother finish- a more compact cloth- strong and stable- ideal for a plain finish, formal, or business suit.

My contempt is for the cloths of 'rack' suits, not the higher quality, heavier Worsted suitings. But I prefer Serges, Gab's, Flannels and Tweeds- Shetlands, Cheviots and Donegals.

Worsteds are regular, tight and not hairy or fuzzy- that would probably describe them in comparison to the other woollens, where the yarns retain some of the natural irregularity and bulk of the fibre.


B
T

 

[Tomasso]

Sorry.

Am I missing something?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KISS_Principle