Summer and Sunday best?

[Tenorclef]

Sadly the sample didn't live up to expectations. My tailor said it was to thin to work with.

 

[GBR]

A bit random, especially as I stare out of my window at a rather cold wet February. I attend an Anglican Church of England, the typical dress code for most in attendance is torn jeans, T-shirts and stubble.....hence i quite enjoy attending the Church service in a 3 piece suit.

However, I have a feeling Tweed suits are going to be hard work during the summer. What suits and materials would you recommend for the Summer?

The vicar should be grateful that people attend however they are dressed.

 

[Tenorclef]

The vicar should be grateful that people attend however they are dressed.

Yes quite so, my gripe is the lack of sartorial standards overall. Its been a while since i posted back on this thread and finally I acquired two very nice brown linen suits, one is a slightly warmer brown with 3 fastening buttons and the other a nice 2 button jacket in a slightly darker brown. My tailor has done an amazing job on them and now they feel like they were made for me. Just got them back from the dry cleaners and now i'm trying to decide which one to wear for my trombone Associate Jazz diploma exam on Saturday...

 

[MikeBravo]

A bit random, especially as I stare out of my window at a rather cold wet February. I attend an Anglican Church of England, the typical dress code for most in attendance is torn jeans, T-shirts and stubble.....hence i quite enjoy attending the Church service in a 3 piece suit.

However, I have a feeling Tweed suits are going to be hard work during the summer. What suits and materials would you recommend for the Summer?

My first reaction was linen. But then, the only place an Englishman wears lined is when in the tropics

 

[Bernie Zack]

Linen wrinkles easy. Polyester doesn't. That's why you will see some of the better men's shops (J. Press comes to mind immediately) offering linen/polyester blend trousers, sportcoats, and suits. Makes sense. But it is usually a very small mix of polyester, less than 20%.

 

[Lokar]

Of course, on the bad side, polyester will make it run warmer (okay, small percentages not that much - but small percentages don't wrinkle proof as much), and if you want to press your suits at home it's not as easy with a poly/linen blend - poly needing minimum heat and linen needing maximum. Press with too low heat, the linen will stay wrinkled. Press with too high, you risk damaging the poly.

Although you can at least steam linen/poly suits without risking ruining them as they don't take ironwork like wool does, so you can't undo all the tailor's ironwork with steam.

I wear pure linen - the wrinkling is part of the charm of linen (as long as you regularly get it pressed or press it yourself).

 

[avedwards]

Of course, on the bad side, polyester will make it run warmer (okay, small percentages not that much - but small percentages don't wrinkle proof as much), and if you want to press your suits at home it's not as easy with a poly/linen blend - poly needing minimum heat and linen needing maximum. Press with too low heat, the linen will stay wrinkled. Press with too high, you risk damaging the poly.

Although you can at least steam linen/poly suits without risking ruining them as they don't take ironwork like wool does, so you can't undo all the tailor's ironwork with steam.

I wear pure linen - the wrinkling is part of the charm of linen (as long as you regularly get it pressed or press it yourself).

My solution is a linen/viscose (55%-45%) suit I've spotted in Marks and Spencer. The viscose won't crease too badly but will still be breathable as it's a natural fibre. I don't mind that it's not a British thing to wear a linen suit as I would rather look "un-British" and be comfortable than be "British" and sweating up my suits, plus I'll only be wearing it on the few days where it's warmer than 25C.

 

[Lokar]

Yeah, I wear linen both in the UK and in Sweden. It's not a British thing to ever wear a suit without a waistcoat, but it's done all the time anyway.

 

[John in Covina]

However, I have a feeling Tweed suits are going to be hard work during the summer. What suits and materials would you recommend for the Summer?

One of the things a friend has spoken and written about is that vintage fabric for men's suits was usually a much looser weave that allowed for a bit more breathe ability. Over time the number count of thread / yarn per square inch got higher and the weave was tighter. Old wool fabrics for men's suits hangs differently (drape) and wrinkles differently than the supers -super 120 etc.

 

[avedwards]

Yeah, I wear linen both in the UK and in Sweden. It's not a British thing to ever wear a suit without a waistcoat, but it's done all the time anyway.

It depends which era we are talking. It was acceptable by the 1960s. Though I do generally follow the rule of keeping my waist covered either with a waistcoat or a DB jacket, for no reason other than to differentiate my casual from my day to day style.

I don't really care whether I look British anyway because firstly my comfort rates higher, secondly I prefer the American "Golden Era" look because they had more vibrant ties and a wider variety of casual looks (generally speaking), thirdly I'm getting to the stage where I'm no longer proud but ashamed of being British, and fourthly hardly any British people would notice these days.

 

[Mario]

The viscose won't crease too badly but will still be breathable as it's a natural fibre.

Actually, I think all that wrinkling in a linen suit is quite charming. I think Baron Kurtz once called it the 'shabby elegance'. I love it!

 

[Tomasso]

I prefer heavier linen as it rolls more than wrinkles. Still, you either appreciate the look or you don't.

 

[Lokar]

It depends which era we are talking. It was acceptable by the 1960s.

Oh it was acceptable, but it's still an Americanism.

I usually wear more British styles as they're a) more common, and b) I don't really like the American sack (or American drape, or any drape for that matter), and c) unlike you, I dislike vibrant ties. Variety is the spice of life, however!

 

[avedwards]

Actually, I think all that wrinkling in a linen suit is quite charming. I think Baron Kurtz once called it the 'shabby elegance'. I love it!

It's a look I'm open to, though I have yet to try it. But given that I hate ironing and never regularly iron any of my clothes (I only ever use the iron to put the creased back in trousers) I may end up taking the shabby part a bit too far.

 

[avedwards]

Oh it was acceptable, but it's still an Americanism.

I usually wear more British styles as they're a) more common, and b) I don't really like the American sack (or American drape, or any drape for that matter), and c) unlike you, I dislike vibrant ties. Variety is the spice of life, however!

I prefer British suits (though I am quite fond of my one American suits), but I like the colourfulness of American ties even if I can only vaguely replicate it with 70s ties which have had the lining removed to make them thinner. Variety is indeed the spice of life, which is why I appreciate most vintage looks even if I don't necessarily wear them.

 

[Mario]

It's a look I'm open to, though I have yet to try it. But given that I hate ironing and never regularly iron any of my clothes (I only ever use the iron to put the creased back in trousers) I may end up taking the shabby part a bit too far.

I'm ironing my clothes a lot. I don't want to know what the neighbours may be thinking about me when they see me late at night in my kitchen with the iron in full swing...

 

[dnjan]

... that I hate ironing and never regularly iron any of my clothes ...".

Amen! I bought a steamer a number of years ago, and regularly steam closet (and drier) wrinkles out.
But ironing - NO!

And so, I really like the "linen look".

 

[Tomasso]

I always hang my trousers by the cuffs, where after a few days the lion's share of creases are eliminated, on most fabrics.

 

[John in Covina]

I always hang my trousers by the cuffs, where after a few days the lion's share of creases are eliminated, on most fabrics.

I have the majority of my pants on similar hangers either a clamp or the type with two clips. Pants take up less space in the closet, the fold over the bar type hanger makes for much space needed per pants, especially jeans.

 

[avedwards]

I'm ironing my clothes a lot. I don't want to know what the neighbours may be thinking about me when they see me late at night in my kitchen with the iron in full swing...

You make ironing sound almost meditative. Maybe I'll have to give it another try.