Suits - Pre 1920

[Two Types]

More from the Library of Congress:

1911:

1910-1915:

1913:

 

[herringbonekid]

i didn't know that men carried glass handbags in 1911. you learn something new every day on this forum.

 

[Papperskatt]

'The Latest Style' (1892):

I think that I posted that photo a few pages back. I think that it's the perfect suit, my holy grail!

 

[Papperskatt]

Very nice pictures TT, thanks for sharing!

Today, me and my brother were visiting a old abandoned house that his ancestors used to live in. I found this 5 button jacket that I decided to bring back home.

It still had the original receipt in the breast pocket, dating it to 20th of July 1900.

As you can tell, it's way beyond repair, but it seems to be about my size (I haven't tried it on yet) so I'm carefully gonna take it apart and use it as a template.

 

[herringbonekid]

so I'm carefully gonna take it apart and use it as a template.

good idea. let us know how you get on.

 

[Papperskatt]

good idea. let us know how you get on.

It'll probably be a few months before I have the time to start the project, but I'll definitely post updates once I get going.

 

[Papperskatt]

Meyer & Company, fall and winter 1918-19.

 

[Two Types]

American fashions / The Jno. J. Mitchell Co. Litho., New York, 1899

Ice-skaters on ice in Tuxedo Park, New York

1897

1902

1870s

 

[Boinciel]

I grabbed the source file for the top one and fiddled around with it. Here's a higher-resolution, saturated version.

 

[Papperskatt]

Some recent eBay-pictures.

1894 dated, sadly too big for me.


Ca 1890s, once again a big size.










1919 dated, mint condition.

 

[Papperskatt]

1909:

 

[Vampyre Master]

1909:

dont like those pointy hats
VM

 

[simonc]

 

[Barmey]

I like the rounded peaks

 

[herringbonekid]

some of the new members may have missed this thread. some nice illustrations from a 1918 catalogue:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/show...Danforth-Mills-Crack-A-Jack-tailoring-catalog

(notice that the term 'sack' is used for virtually every suit, whether it has darts or no darts).

(notice also that almost every scenario involves 2 young men and a young woman. what was the psychology here i wonder ?
perhaps they thought that if they could inspire a competitive feeling in the reader, they might be more likely to order a suit ?)

 

[Papperskatt]

some of the new members may have missed this thread. some nice illustrations from a 1918 catalogue:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/show...Danforth-Mills-Crack-A-Jack-tailoring-catalog

Thanks, I had missed that thread.

(notice that the term 'sack' is used for virtually every suit, whether it has darts or no darts).

"Despite what you may have read, they are not called "sack coats" because they are oversized, loose, or otherwise fit like a sack. Sack, sac, sacque, etc. all refer to the way the back of the jacket is cut; i.e. "sack cut". This simply means the back is formed of two pieces only, cut relatively straight down, instead of being made up of four curved pieces with hidden pockets in the tails as on more formal and traditional coats such as tail coats, morning coats, and frocks."

http://www.waltontaylor.com/Glossary.html

 

[herringbonekid]

it seems there was a period when Brooks Brothers began using the term specifically for an un-darted suit or jacket, and at the same time the correct use was widely being replaced simply by the colloquial 'suit'.

 

[The Good]

In the pictures from that thread, there seem to be some nice and interesting suits in general. I think the pants are beyond no break and too short, but these suits strike me as resembling a more idealized form of what modern suits could potentially look like, with heavier weights, more adventurous fabrics and styles, and less wrinkles. We just need more men to wear hats again, and we are not all far off from that look, among many of the young regular (often tailored) suit-wearing population in general. Think of the iGent or other types that wear their suits with taken-in waists and slim, shorter pants. I may be able to get somewhat close to the silhouette with my suits, although it is a stretch, as their fabrics are less robust and lighter weight, with somewhat lower rises, and lack details that make the ones in the pictures unique. They are closer, if anything, to '60s suits. It would be very interesting if by 2018, we get that much closer to this look, with the increasing rise of interest in classic clothing, as it would seem. That may be overly optimistic, concerning a very small population of habitual suit-wearers, anyway.

Here is a page of a fall/winter 1916 or 1917 ad.

With the exception of the man on the far right, the pants have slight breaks. I've also noticed the complete absence of the bowler hats in the other ad, with two featured in this one. Were bowlers falling out of fashion right after WWI?

 

[cookie]

http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/profiles/5yWkcFzBMKMPyHk3kVPDbmB/characters

http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p023wjq3

http://www.bbc.com/news/entertainment-arts-23761594

 

[herringbonekid]

We just need more men to wear hats again, and we are not all far off from that look, among many of the young regular (often tailored) suit-wearing population in general.

i agree that there are lots of styles around that are similar to the late teens and early 20s styles; neat jackets, narrow trousers, striped shirts with contrast collars, bow ties, knit ties, Balmoral boots, a general interest in tailoring, looking 'groomed' as oppose to grungy.

but, there's always that modern take on the past which spoils it for the vintage obsessive; the too low trousers, the lightweight fabric. if menswear is all about the details then it's a case of 'so near and yet so far'.

It would be very interesting if by 2018, we get that much closer to this look, with the increasing rise of interest in classic clothing, as it would seem. That may be overly optimistic, concerning a very small population of habitual suit-wearers, anyway.

will suits be even closer to a late teens - early 20s look by 2018 ?
it's possible, but i doubt it for the same reasons as above. whenever a designer takes inspiration from the past they always want to modernise it in some way:

http://www.thefashionisto.com/phine...t-suits-gotham-inspired-fall-2014-collection/