Suits - Pre 1920

[Two Types]

I know that the FL concentrates on fashions post-1920, but I thought we should have a thread for earlier suits, if only to help show the progression of suits in the years leading up to 1920.

So here we go. I'll start off with a few youth's suits from Canada in 1916:

 

[thecollegeguy123]

This thread is an excellent idea. One of the great things about the lounge suit is that its design has remained essentially the same as it was in the late 19th century. Some minor details vary, such as lapel size and jacket length, but only in cycles. No matter what changes take place, the suit will always return to its 19th century origins. My personal favorites are suits from the 1920s to the 1940s, but the latest Sherlock Holmes movie has given me a growing appreciation for the suits of the 1890s. If I wore one of Holmes' or Watson's suits on the streets of Miami today, I would not look terribly out of place. Some would say that I would look unremarkable (in a good way). Unfortunately I do not know how to find pre-Men's Wearhouse suits that can actually be worn. There are many great vintage suits on eBay, but they are more suited to be museum pieces due to the decay in the fabric caused by physical age. I would like to find a place that accurately recreates the suits of past decades (or centuries) using authentic methods and materials that are actually made for daily wear.

 

[Two Types]

Here's a further selection from Canada, this time from Fall & Winter 1915/1916:

 

[Two Types]

More from Fall & Winter 1915/1916:

 

[DamianM]

Probably late teens due to the Full Attached belt progression. But you have to love the extreme angles of the chest pockets

 

[Feraud]

Great idea for a thread. It's a shame there are so few originals for people to enjoy!

 

[DamianM]

This thread is an excellent idea. One of the great things about the lounge suit is that its design has remained essentially the same as it was in the late 19th century. Some minor details vary, such as lapel size and jacket length, but only in cycles. No matter what changes take place, the suit will always return to its 19th century origins. My personal favorites are suits from the 1920s to the 1940s, but the latest Sherlock Holmes movie has given me a growing appreciation for the suits of the 1890s. If I wore one of Holmes' or Watson's suits on the streets of Miami today, I would not look terribly out of place. Some would say that I would look unremarkable (in a good way). Unfortunately I do not know how to find pre-Men's Wearhouse suits that can actually be worn. There are many great vintage suits on eBay, but they are more suited to be museum pieces due to the decay in the fabric caused by physical age. I would like to find a place that accurately recreates the suits of past decades (or centuries) using authentic methods and materials that are actually made for daily wear.

you and a handful would like this to happen but we are so few that they wont cater to us

 

[cpdv]

I had a suit dated May 28th 1911 it was a bit small for me and I sold it to a friend of mine. It was definitely a forward thinking young mans design as it was fitted and had 2 high stance buttons. I love that this thread was started I'm a huge fan of the teens.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Most vintage suits on eBay are perfectly fine for everyday wear. Indeed, museums are typically only interested in the very best menswear!

There are many great vintage suits on eBay, but they are more suited to be museum pieces due to the decay in the fabric caused by physical age. I would like to find a place that accurately recreates the suits of past decades (or centuries) using authentic methods and materials that are actually made for daily wear.

 

[Two Types]

Indeed, museums are typically only interested in the very best menswear!

I am always surprised by how little ordinary menswear seems to be collected by museums. A 1930s Burtons suit tells you more about the realities of 1930s life than one of the Duke of von Windsor's suits.

 

[herringbonekid]

Probably late teens due to the Full Attached belt progression.

that's a waist seam with top stitching to give it a slightly swelled look, not an attached belt.

...

1905-8 ish:

1910-15:

1915:

1917:

mid-late teens (UK):

1919:

 

[Dinerman]

Somewhere I have better photos of this 1910s 3-piece suit (all three pieces, on a mannequin, in the studio, detail shots, etc.) , but I can't seem to find them at the moment. In the meantime, here's a crummy pic taken with a broken camera fro when I first got it.

 

[herringbonekid]

late teens:

1919 suit jacket:

 

[herringbonekid]

1919:

1909:

1904:

1896:

 

[Rudie]

The shoes in the second pic look like modern sneakers.

 

[DamianM]

The shoes in the second pic look like modern sneakers.

Well Vonverse and Keds were all started early in the teens and have been the same since Or very similar

 

[herringbonekid]

^ most likely a canvas oxford:

 

[Chasseur]

HBK thanks for the great photos (as always!)

 

[volvomeister13]

This thread is an excellent idea. One of the great things about the lounge suit is that its design has remained essentially the same as it was in the late 19th century. Some minor details vary, such as lapel size and jacket length, but only in cycles. No matter what changes take place, the suit will always return to its 19th century origins. My personal favorites are suits from the 1920s to the 1940s, but the latest Sherlock Holmes movie has given me a growing appreciation for the suits of the 1890s. If I wore one of Holmes' or Watson's suits on the streets of Miami today, I would not look terribly out of place. Some would say that I would look unremarkable (in a good way). Unfortunately I do not know how to find pre-Men's Wearhouse suits that can actually be worn. There are many great vintage suits on eBay, but they are more suited to be museum pieces due to the decay in the fabric caused by physical age. I would like to find a place that accurately recreates the suits of past decades (or centuries) using authentic methods and materials that are actually made for daily wear.

Great thread! I personally love the late Victorian and Edwardian styles. It's unfortunately that they go so often overlooked. As someone who has a hard time choosing between those eras and the 1920s, the teens are a great middle point.

Over on another thread lounger Papperskatt and a few others have highly recommended old-town.co.uk for their Victorian/Edwardian style clothes. (Here's his endorsement http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?70402-Turn-of-the-Century-Sack-Suit).

By the way, if you like that era you might like the show "Reilly: Ace of Spies." I recently discovered it and devoured the whole 12-episode miniseries over Xmas break. It's incredibly awesome, takes place from around 1900 to the 1920s, and has some of the coolest suits I've ever seen.

 

[volvomeister13]

Also, I recently bought this book.
http://www.amazon.com/The-Victorian...d=1388899839&sr=8-1&keywords=victorian+tailor

I've just started reading it and it seems quite good. While I don't know the first thing about tailoring, I hope to use it as a reference when I can finally find a tailor who can make the sort of suits I want.

Also, more from "Ace of Spies"...

Oh and one more thing... There were a lot of sack-cut suits made in the 1960's (Think the J. Press style) and depending on the lapels, fabric, and overall look, SOMETIMES they seem like they can pass for Victorian/Edwardian style. I just picked one up off Etsy that I really like for $80. It's a two-piece, so as soon as I find a contrasting vest that pairs well with it I'll take it out for a spin.