Suits - Pre 1920

[Broccoli]

Dosti, do the jacket / waistcoat have any labels indicating where they were made ?

It is with 99% certainty made in the northern part of Sweden, they were part of a collection of clothes that belonged to the people who once lived on some farm up there.
Are you happy with it, dost?

 

[Dostioffsky]

It is with 99% certainty made in the northern part of Sweden, they were part of a collection of clothes that belonged to the people who once lived on some farm up there.
Are you happy with it, dost?

Yes, I sure am! The fit is perfect and I am really fond of the overall look and feel of them!

 

[Dostioffsky]

Wallace Reid, 1919

 

[Dirk Wainscotting]

^Short rise on those strides above.

 

[Panadora]

I also noticed that! And found this earlier in the tread (1917)


www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/suits-pre-1920.75566/page-12#post-1840961

 

[Dirk Wainscotting]

Oh I know that illustration, it's from the Croonenberg 'Blue Book'.

 

[Awesomest Guy]

^Short rise on those strides above.

Indeed! It seems to me that breakless trousers were the most popular variety among young men from the 1900s to the 30s, After which point they seemed to go away, at least until the modern period, now that fashion-forward suits have begun to include narrow, low-rise short trousers of the variety most on FL would absolutely abhor. Of course, the classic variety of breakless trouser is actually quite appealing, IMO.

 

[Dostioffsky]

I forgot to reply to this topic! Trousers back then did quite often have a low rise. I came across this illustration from the same year (1919) for example:

Indeed! It seems to me that breakless trousers were the most popular variety among young men from the 1900s to the 30s, After which point they seemed to go away, at least until the modern period, now that fashion-forward suits have begun to include narrow, low-rise short trousers of the variety most on FL would absolutely abhor. Of course, the classic variety of breakless trouser is actually quite appealing, IMO.

The biggest problem with those modern trousers (I think) is that they are often look like they are too small rather than just 'narrow'. 1910's or 20's Trousers are usually still quite roomy around the hips, even if they are narrow at the hems. (Which actually doesn't seem to be the case at all from that illustration above!)

 

[Dirk Wainscotting]

We know already that advertising material is not always a fair guide to what was actually made and worn. The styles cut during the 1900-1925 period do include so-called "young men's trousers" with a rise an inch (often only 1/2 an inch) shorter than the standard, but the 'standard' had a fairly generous rise and 99/100 were worn with braces rather than being self-supporting or using a belt. I haven't seen any real-life examples of trousers pre 1960s that are true low-rise with a straighter hip. The bottoms of trousers between 1900-1925 seem to have been consistently 16" with a knee measure of 20-21" and rounder hip and thigh sweep, more like "peg top" trousers. It contrasts sharply with the 18" to 17" knee and straighter hip/thigh you see on modern 'skinny' trousers.

The difference with modern trousers is the narrow knee and thigh; often a short seat seam and zero ironwork, so it's all attempted in the cut, which you can see by how much the fronts have been fulled onto the backs (which have been cut marginally shorter or the balance notches raised to give try and give a clean fall at the back when the legs are joined). Decent ready-made trousers of the 20/30s/40s/50s still had ironwork done on them and the workforce was made up of skilled tailors and seamstresses.

 

[Dostioffsky]

No, that illustration definitely seems like a exaggeration and I completely agree on the wider (and well ironed!) hips and knees part (as I also mentioned somewhat in my previous post). I do think there were more 'extreme' versions around in these specific years. Just recently on ebay were two pairs of white flannels with 6.25 and 6.5 inch hems and and a 9.5 and 10 inch rise. (http://www.ebay.com/itm/vtg-1930s-I...6yn%2Fgrc6287PZqQ%2Fk%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc) And belts, to me, seem very common. I see them everywhere from films, to everyday photos to catalogues.

This would probably my favourite example of what I like from a 'teens/early twenties trouser (could, for my taste, actually be a bit wider at the hips, though):

 

[Dostioffsky]

Here's another variation!

...and another, from 1918:

 

[Dostioffsky]

 

[Dirk Wainscotting]

Somebody looks like he's been shoplifting!

 

[Dinerman]

Kuppenheimer

 

[Dirk Wainscotting]

Wow! What a super example of an early sack lounge. You can see that how the foreparts are cut (very round) marks the period where the morning or 'walking' coat was standard wear and the newer sack or lounge is a shorter version retaining elements of that design.

 

[Awesomest Guy]

Wow! What a super example of an early sack lounge. You can see that how the foreparts are cut (very round) marks the period where the morning or 'walking' coat was standard wear and the newer sack or lounge is a shorter version retaining elements of that design.

It would definitely be easy to wear the coat as morning dress, and I don't mean as a stroller.

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

That is awesome, Dinerman. Really hard to find such early gems around here. Specially in this condition...

 

[Fastuni]

Ultra-rare German ca. 1900 - 1910's three-piece four-button suit.

Incredibly good condition and wearable size UK/US 42 Long!

The cloth is strong, thick and scratchy all-wool in a heathered charcoal grey.

(Also has four wild-patterned "Regattes"-ties and a black hat by J.Seidel Munich)

Check out the lining material's pattern!

Anyone interested in more details can PM me.

 

[FAGUSKNOTS]

PM sent

 

[Rudie]

Awesome suit. You never cease to amaze. You're the vintage sellers' equivalent to a truffle pig.