Suit critique #2 please?

[Rooster]

Yep, 5" lapels measured from the tip over to the fold.

 

[retrofashion]

Yep, 5" lapels measured from the tip over to the fold.

Thanks.
That sounds, wide! I never bothered measuring, but what's today "standard"? 3"?

 

[Tomasso]

The trousers look pretty good but the jacket needs a lot of work. I suggest that you send the jacket back to the maker, with the photos, for some adjustments.

 

[Forgotten Man]

Thanks.
That sounds, wide! I never bothered measuring, but what's today "standard"? 3"?

On vintage suits from the mid to late 30's and into the late 40's lapels were rather wide... but, 5" seem to be about right. My self, I don't go by "today's standard"... I go by yesterday's standard! Today's standard can go scratch!lol

FM~

 

[retrofashion]

On vintage suits from the mid to late 30's and into the late 40's lapels were rather wide... but, 5" seem to be about right. My self, I don't go by "today's standard"... I go by yesterday's standard! Today's standard can go scratch!lol

FM~

lol I was just trying to get a picture of what's today's standard for comparison. Is 3" about right?

 

[Rooster]

lol I was just trying to get a picture of what's today's standard for comparison. Is 3" about right?

Beats me, the "latest" fashion suit I own is probably 20 years old.....lol

 

[CharlestonBows]

Not too bad...

On the whole, I like the direction. The fabric is certainly a casual one, and its a staple in my wardrobe.

The only issue I have with it is the jacket - the balance seems off. The jacket waist seems a little tight (note the pulling, or 'X', around the buttoned front) and the jacket skirt seems a little too snug. Nothing that a quick and minor alteration couldn't fix.

As far as the lapel width, I'd be careful with proportion. On a shorter jacket, and depending on your height, it could look a little out of whack -- not to say it wouldn't work. You might also consider having them a little higher set, as well, to lend a longer line to the jacket front.

The trousers are perfect, though. Next time you go with a casual tropic fabric like that, why not give a box pleat front a shot. Makes the knee width a slight bit fuller, but it gives that casual fabric a much cleaner and more elegant drape -- but you must put a generous cuff on it.

Just some suggestions -- but I do like it! :eusa_clap

 

[Rooster]

Yes, the suit does pull around the upper button in the pictures. I put it on over suspenders instead of a belt and the problem disapeared. It seems to have been the combination of my gut and the belt buckle causing the pull. Most of the problem is probably the gain of about 10lbs from measuring for the suit to receiving the suit.....lol

 

[CharlestonBows]

Most of the problem is probably the gain of about 10lbs from measuring for the suit to receiving the suit.....lol

That'll do it! lol

 

[Jovan]

lol I was just trying to get a picture of what's today's standard for comparison. Is 3" about right?

More like 3.5", I'd say. I believe that's what I measured off my modern suits before. It really does depend on the type of lapel though -- that measurement was from a notch. You'd want something wider for a peak so the main "body" doesn't look anorexic. What can skew your perceived width is how much belly a lapel has and the fact that it tapers down from the widest point. Amount of roll also makes a difference. So... a 2.75" lapel from the '60s may read more like 1.75" to the eye. Same with ties.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

The trousers are perfect, though. Next time you go with a casual tropic fabric like that, why not give a box pleat front a shot. Makes the knee width a slight bit fuller, but it gives that casual fabric a much cleaner and more elegant drape -- but you must put a generous cuff on it.

p

Do you have a good picture of box pleats "working". That is: giving a nice drape and continuity of line through the thighs and knee? The pair i have that have front box pleats (30s, Australian) drape very very weirdly. So weird that it seriously reduces my wearing of that suit.

I'm very interested in hearing more of your opinions (and anyone else out there who'd like to comment) on box pleated trousers.

bk

 

[CharlestonBows]

Box pleats

Well, box pleats are all I pretty much wear now. When I get a suit cut, I opt for either box pleats or plain front, and all of my odd trousers are box pleat. It's our signature pant in the store.

The trick is the knee size. If the thigh is too tight, or the seat too tight, then it simply won't work -- as you know.

The trick is to make sure the knee width is cut generously enough. A nice, full knee will lend itself to a more properly functioning box pleat (i.e., closed, keeping the pant front plain and clean) and thereby a more clean, proper and full drape.

I'm not saying go for a "tv preacher" look, but a generous knee and a fairly minimal taper from the top of the pant leg to the bottom work.

I'll take a picture of mine today when I get to a camera. If you like, I'll drop you some specs -- just PM me your waist size, and I'll see what our sheets have and you can compare.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Yeah, my trousers pretty much drape how you describe. (They are 1930s, so very full through the thighs and knee and straight down from knee to cuff.)

Perhaps it's just that i don't like how they look. ie. there's nothing wrong with the trousers, it's my taste that's causing me problems.

Waist size 29, btw (thanks for the offer . . . heartily appreciated).

bk

 

[CharlestonBows]

On a 30 w trouser in our model I have it at a 13 inch width (giving you a 26 inch knee) and a 10 inch cuff width (giving you around a 20 to 20 1/2 inch cuff).

Here's a pick of the pleat in my odd trousers today (keep in mind I've been in a tailor shop all day, so it's a little wrinkled! )

And here is another pic of a pair.

 

[Jovan]

I still prefer a forward pleat, myself. But those be some well made trousers. What's the fabric composition and weight?

 

[CharlestonBows]

I still prefer a forward pleat, myself. But those be some well made trousers. What's the fabric composition and weight?

I find that forward pleats just look a little funny to me. I can't get used to it.

But those are just a tropical weight worsted wool; about a Super 90s in 8, 8.5 ounce or so. It's our 'signature trouser', and it's like pajama pants they're so comfortable!

Thanks for the compliment, though.

 

[Jovan]

Interesting. I guess the 90s makes it drape a little better than most modern lightweights I see. Mine get wrinkled like linen from sitting in only 10 minutes. :-/

 

[CharlestonBows]

Interesting. I guess the 90s makes it drape a little better than most modern lightweights I see. Mine get wrinkled like linen from sitting in only 10 minutes. :-/

It's basically a suiting fabric. Are your trousers lined to the knee? The lining helps keep the fabric from sticking and wrinkling too badly.

 

[Jovan]

They are indeed.

 

[Jerekson]

Now that is a good suit.