Stroller?

[Jaxenro]

I was going to put together a stroller suit can I use a standard black two button suit/sports coat? Notch lapels ok?

 

[Edward]

Completely. Technically less formal than peak, but not gauche in the way they are with black tie. The key difference with a regular blazer, imo, is that a stroller should not have blazer buttons, rather plain black ones as if it were a suitcoat to go with black trews. (FWIW, if you can buy black trews which are genuinely a match, then it can also double as a lounge suit which is black, as well as black lounge.) Great look, imo - all too rare here in the UK. Aside from undertakers and freemasons, it's practically died out.

 

[Jaxenro]

Finding an odd black jacket shouldn’t be too hard although one that doesn’t have a center vent might take longer

A tux jacket without satin lapels would work I am assuming fabric covered buttons would be ok?

 

[Jaxenro]

What do you think of this one it’s on fleabay now - center vent though

 

[Edward]

Could work. Who is really going to notice? Mine has two vents, pretty much the norm as how it's worn in the UK by this point (not sure if it was always so, or if back in the day it conformed to the same no vent ideal as in the US). It would at least do the job until you find something without one, if that's what you ultimately want.

 

[Jaxenro]

Me. I doubt anyone else will realize anything except I am wearing a black jacket and gray pants

Center vents seem to be an American standard even wen not called for

 

[Jaxenro]

So I bought the jacket a matching pair of gray striped trousers and a gray and black striped tie. So technically all I need now is the waistcoat

It’s not 100% traditional but close. I have some nice Peal & Co oxfords to go with it

 

[Patrick Hall]

i will be anxious to see the final results of this experiment. I am considering commissioning a black lounge combination from my tailor, and have been trying to brainstorm ways to remove the "semi-formal wedding" connotations that have adhered to the style in the US in recent decades. Considering choosing cloth for the trousers that doesn't scream "morning coat", or maybe a dark charcoal for the coat instead of true black.

 

[Jaxenro]

I was looking at this as a vest thought it might remove some of the formality and still keep the look

https://www.brooksbrothers.com/Supi...l?dwvar_MS00861_Color=BLUE&contentpos=1&cgid=

In gray

 

[avedwards]

i will be anxious to see the final results of this experiment. I am considering commissioning a black lounge combination from my tailor, and have been trying to brainstorm ways to remove the "semi-formal wedding" connotations that have adhered to the style in the US in recent decades. Considering choosing cloth for the trousers that doesn't scream "morning coat", or maybe a dark charcoal for the coat instead of true black.

Houndstooth check trousers (still appropriate for formal wear) would avoid the wedding connotations.

You could also have the waistcoat made out of the same cloth as the jacket. I think a matching waistcoat with formal and semi formal wear looks a lot more businesslike and less wedding like than a contrasting waistcoat.

 

[Patrick Hall]

Houndstooth check trousers (still appropriate for formal wear) would avoid the wedding connotations.

You could also have the waistcoat made out of the same cloth as the jacket. I think a matching waistcoat with formal and semi formal wear looks a lot more businesslike and less wedding like than a contrasting waistcoat.

Yes, I'd already planned on having the coat and waistcoat cut from the same fabric, precisely for the reason you named. Hounds-check trousers is a brilliant thought too. May have to add that to the list of ideas...

I was looking at this as a vest thought it might remove some of the formality and still keep the look

https://www.brooksbrothers.com/Supi...l?dwvar_MS00861_Color=BLUE&contentpos=1&cgid=

In gray

I'm not sure I'd go with a cotton sweater-vest. TOO informal for even a more business-like/less wedding-like black lounge kit. The whole kit will just look like a leisure-combo with a black sport coat. I'd recommend going Alan's route and sourcing a black vest that can match your coat.

 

[Jaxenro]

Traditionally black vests with a stroller are for funerals. But I agree the sweater vest is probably too informal it kind of defeats the stroller purpose. I will just keep my eyes open for a gray vest

I ended up with chalk stripe gray pants with lighter gray chalk stripes. I know the most formal are formal stripe which I understand to be a black stripe on gray but the price fit my budget. I will probably be wearing this to church on easter that type of thing so I can stretch it a little

And I am doubtful anyone will even know it is a stroller or what the proper pants are

 

[Zoukatron]

If you can only find a jacket with a single or double vents, it is very easy to just sew them closed quite discretely - I did this myself with a peak-lapelled black jacket I found in a charity shop when I was putting my own stroller/black lounge outfit together.

I would say though, given that it is so rare as a dress code these days (the only people I've seen wearing it are 'Masons, although I know barristers wear it too here in the UK), that if you observe the principals that create the dress code, and vary some of them slightly, you can create some slightly different but beautiful outfits.

I am shortly going to be having a new stroller ensemble made by my tailors, however I will be going with a navy jacket instead of black. I'm going to have the standard cashmere stripes and both a dove grey and buff waistcoats made for day wear, and trousers with a more subtle pattern and a burgundy waistcoat made for evening wear.

Of course, I'm also having a navy homburg made to go with it (I already have a sample of the felt so I can make the jacket the right shade of navy).

Make sure you show us the final ensemble.

 

[Jaxenro]

I went with the jacket and tie above and just regular gray chalk stripe pants so it is just the vest I am working on finding. I can live with the lapels and center vent

So far it’s all my preferred brand and I have about $60 in it which will go up some when I get it tailored to fit. Usually 46R fits my shoulders but I need some work on the waist and sleeves

So I am doing this on the cheap this time. I might be a bit flexible on the vest even allowing some pattern like a grey houndstooth

 

[avedwards]

Traditionally black vests with a stroller are for funerals. But I agree the sweater vest is probably too informal it kind of defeats the stroller purpose. I will just keep my eyes open for a gray vest

I disagree with this. While a black waistcoat, worn with a black four in hand tie would be funeral appropriate, a black waistcoat with any other tie would simply be a more businesslike version of a stroller that was once commonly worn by civil servants, politicians and white collar professionals in the UK.

A grey waistcoat is of course equally appropriate and shouldn't be too difficult to find. Given that you're sourcing your stroller from separates I think it would be the preferable choice to avoid having a black waistcoat and jacket that aren't made of the same cloth.

 

[Patrick Hall]

While a black waistcoat, worn with a black four in hand tie would be funeral appropriate, a black waistcoat with any other tie would simply be a more businesslike version of a stroller that was once commonly worn by civil servants, politicians and white collar professionals in the UK.

A grey waistcoat is of course equally appropriate and shouldn't be too difficult to find. Given that you're sourcing your stroller from separates I think it would be the preferable choice to avoid having a black waistcoat and jacket that aren't made of the same cloth.

Indeed. Plenty of Fellows illustrations of men wearing black waistcoats to work as part of their black lounge kit. While I agree that pairing separates in the same shade is generally unwise, I haven't had any trouble pairing black items purchased separately. Cobbled together a white tie kit this way, and no one is the wiser. It works, provided both items are made of worsted wool, rather than something like mohair, where one item will betray a noticeable sheen.

 

[Jaxenro]

I disagree with this. While a black waistcoat, worn with a black four in hand tie would be funeral appropriate, a black waistcoat with any other tie would simply be a more businesslike version of a stroller that was once commonly worn by civil servants, politicians and white collar professionals in the UK.

Yes I agree back in the day a black waistcoat was acceptable but my understanding is, outside London on some occasions, a black waistcoat is only used for mourning today. It really wouldn't be proper for Easter wear for church.

 

[Edward]

Black Lounge differs from full morning dress only in substituting a jacket for the morning coat, and a four in hand or bow tie being the norm (a formal cravat being an option with morning dress, though less commonly seen). That being so, with waistcoats and all else they follow the same code. Black is the most formal option for the waistcoat, though lighter colours are more commonly seen on festive occasions - buff, dove grey, powder blue being the most common. If I'm not going to go black, I personally find a dove grey the most pleasing alternative with the correct silver or houndstooth tie.

 

[Jaxenro]

Powder blue is an interesting choice what are your thoughts on this? Bit of a pattern to it

 

[Jaxenro]