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Storm Cuff Removal - with pictures

Cooperson

One Too Many
Messages
1,165
Location
Midlands UK
After fighting with my new Aero for over a week now I finally decided that the storm cuffs were not a good idea in a lighter weight jacket. I originally intended to omit them from my order but somehow I forgot - my mistake. Whilst I don't seem to mind them in my heavy horse Highwayman, in this medium weight jerky horsehide they make the jacket a real battle to get on and off. As the jacket is meant for warmer weather anyway I decided they had to go. As my wife is an ex needlework teacher and an excellent dressmaker, I persuaded her to have a look for me and to my surprise she said "no problem" and just two hours later the job was done!

I remembered some questions on this very subject some time ago, so I thought there might be sufficient interest to warrant a few photos of the cuff removal process. As I'm not familiar with sewing terminology, I persuaded my wife to write down some text which I have used here.


1. Factory fitted storm cuff

stormcuff-1.jpg
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2.Carefully unpick the storm cuff (a 'stitch ripper' is a handy tool for this).

Stormcuff-3.jpg
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3. Unpick very carefully, so as not to cut the lining of the jacket

Stormcuff-4.jpg
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4. The seam is double stitched - undo both lines of stitching to release the cuff.

Stormcuff-5.jpg
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5. Pin lower section of lining over the upper section, matching the fold on the lower section to the line left by the stitching on the upper section

Stormcuff-6.jpg
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6. Using a strong thread (top stitching thread is good for this), use a 'ladder stitch' to attach the lower lining to the upper

Stormcuff-7.jpg
[/IMG]

7. Use small stitches and after about 6, wrap thread around finger and pull to close gap. Ladder stitch involves making a little stitch along the fold then one of the same length on the other piece - the thread is left loose, leaving a 'ladder' effect until pulled up

Stormcuff-8.jpg
[/IMG]

8. The finished effect should resemble a seam that has been machined - i.e. no visible stitching.

Stormcuff-10.jpg
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9. The finished sleeve with cuff removed

Stormcuff-11.jpg
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Photo 4 with the lining in bits might be a little disconcerting to owners of expensive jackets, as it was for me, but as the saying goes "you can't make an omelet without breaking eggs" :)

Hope this was of some interest. Needless to say, my jacket is now is a joy to wear and is indeed 'the business'.
 

deluxestyling

One of the Regulars
Messages
217
Location
Suburbia. London
I once owned an original half belt HH jacket that had American style cuffs without the inner elastic storm cuffs. Never missed them but I have them on an Aero jacket and they work okay for me.

Just my personal findings with this...
 

Kid Mac

Practically Family
Messages
696
Location
NC
Fantastic work! Your wife makes it look easy; clearly, it's not. Thanks for posting the pics of the process.

Mac
 

Cooperson

One Too Many
Messages
1,165
Location
Midlands UK
deluxestyling said:
I once owned an original half belt HH jacket that had American style cuffs without the inner elastic storm cuffs. Never missed them but I have them on an Aero jacket and they work okay for me.

Just my personal findings with this...

I have them in my Highwayman and have no problem with them at all - they are staying in. However, the cuffs on this medium weight jacket were so tight, the only way I could get my arms out was to grip the end of sleeve with opposite hand and pull like crazy until my hand eventually came free. This particular jacket just feels so much better without the cuffs.
 

Peacoat

*
Bartender
Messages
6,459
Location
South of Nashville
Now that's the business. You're wife's work looks a treat. I have storm cuffs on several jackets and never had a problem with them, but then they weren't as tight as yours either. Good job.
 

Cooperson

One Too Many
Messages
1,165
Location
Midlands UK
I know what you mean, I don't have a problem with them in my Highwayman either, but these were seriously uncomfortable.

I didn't mean to resurrect the 'pros and cons of storm cuffs' argument again, I know it's been discussed at length before :) I was just hoping to show that work like this possible - I assume similar techniques could also be used for repairing rips and tears in linings, but I would have ask the boss to confirm that :)
 

Cooperson

One Too Many
Messages
1,165
Location
Midlands UK
BigHairyFinn said:
lol I should do a tutorial "how to add stormcuffs"

I believe the storm cuffs are machined into the sleeve before they are put into the jacket, so that tutorial I would really like to see :)
 

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