Stiff front vs. marcella shirt for white tie

[Chasseur]

I am putting together my white tie outfit, with a 1940s vintage tail coat I managed to find in my size.

Question which would you go for for a shirt? I am looking at two shirts from the Vintage shirt company, their stiff fronted boiled shirt and their marcella fronted one.

http://www.vintageshirt.co.uk/list_ewear.php

Because of the heat of where I am I am leaning towards marcella since it might be more comfortable. Also I thought getting their matching marcella pattern white tie would look good as well.

Also looking at their washable wing-collar.

I am also open to other shirts and suggestions.

Thanks!

 

[Cody Pendant]

Stiff necked stuffed shirt.

For the choice of the first two as you asked for, I vote for the second one. I think it would be more in-line with your 40's period coat. If you purchase one of their shirts I would highly recommend you get the matching tie as the Marcella or Pique cloth pattern matching would be preferable to a mismatch.
I have heard good reviews of their product.

As you know the collarless shirts require a celluloid collar purchased separately and a set of collar studs for attachment. While quite natty, the collars are very stiff, uncomfortable and hot. Think of a hard plastic like ring around your neck. On the plus side you can get a couple of different looks out of one shirt.

In my opinion it's the male version of the stiletto high heal shoes women wear. The "look" may be worth the pain if your that vain, just don't complain ! However; nothing else is going to look as good though. (Go for it!):eusa_clap

The third shirt with attached wing looks to be very similar to any Marcella or Pique shirt that I think you could probably buy locally. That de-tached collar option is what they have the market on.

Perhaps someone who actually owns one of their shirts could comment on the weight of the cotton and the breath-ability of it.

As a reference, both my Pique bib and my all Pique cloth (no bib) shirts are both made of heaver weight cotton cloth and thus warmer than my run of the mill tux shirts with the pleated bibs. I find the more translucent the cloth the cooler it will be.

Good luck.

 

[Evan Everhart]

For the choice of the first two as you asked for, I vote for the second one. I think it would be more in-line with your 40's period coat. If you purchase one of their shirts I would highly recommend you get the matching tie as the Marcella or Pique cloth pattern matching would be preferable to a mismatch.
I have heard good reviews of their product.

As you know the collarless shirts require a celluloid collar purchased separately and a set of collar studs for attachment. While quite natty, the collars are very stiff, uncomfortable and hot. Think of a hard plastic like ring around your neck. On the plus side you can get a couple of different looks out of one shirt.

In my opinion it's the male version of the stiletto high heal shoes women wear. The "look" may be worth the pain if your that vain, just don't complain ! However; nothing else is going to look as good though. (Go for it!):eusa_clap

The third shirt with attached wing looks to be very similar to any Marcella or Pique shirt that I think you could probably buy locally. That de-tached collar option is what they have the market on.

Perhaps someone who actually owns one of their shirts could comment on the weight of the cotton and the breath-ability of it.

As a reference, both my Pique bib and my all Pique cloth (no bib) shirts are both made of heaver weight cotton cloth and thus warmer than my run of the mill tux shirts with the pleated bibs. I find the more translucent the cloth the cooler it will be.

Good luck.

What about stiff cotton collars? They are to be had from such sites as http://www.ushist.com/victorian_shirts_detachable-collars.htm and I've ordered from them before; they're wonderful fellows over there! Another option is to have custom made collars at my own tailor's firm located at mysuitshop.com which usually runs about twenty per collar but I believe that discounts can be negotiated for bulk orders from what I recall. Though the real point in favor of custom collars is that they can be made in any height and any style which you could possibly desire! Good advice over-all sir! I really like your mention of translucency; it Definitely is a good indicator of how hot the shirt will get! UGH!

 

[Tomasso]

I am also open to other shirts and suggestions.

Are you still in India? If so, see a shirtmaker and have the body made in cotton viole (a wispy weave which wears very cool) ) with the front in your choice of boiled cotton or Marcella. My choice would be Marcella (aka Piqué).

 

[Marc Chevalier]

My choice would be Marcella (aka Piqué).

Yes. The problem with a smooth front is that it's surprisingly difficult to iron and starch without setting in little wrinkles. Even good laundries make this mistake.


Marcella, on the other hand, irons and starches very well. Not a wrinkle in sight.

.

 

[Tomasso]

it's surprisingly difficult to iron and starch without setting in little wrinkles. Even good laundries make this mistake.

.

Same problem with pleated fronts.

 

[Chasseur]

Tomasso,

Thanks for the suggestion, thats actually an excellent idea. This thread is a little old, so I've already bought one shirt from Vintage shirt company. But I'd like to try this tailor for one.

(You'd have thought that I would have thought of this earlier, but actuallly it didn't, d'oh!...)

 

[dhermann1]

I got a nice marcella front shirt from T M Lewin in England. Not expensive. Looks great.

 

[Charlie Huang]

Strictly speaking, the boiled shirt front is the most appropriate for white tie while the marcella front is most appropriate with black tie. However, given that those that know how to launder and starch boiled shirts are very few in number (the only ones I know are all in England) then you could be forgiven for going with the marcella (which comes in a semi-stiff form, made by Ede & Ravenscroft so better than your average soft marcella: http://shop.edeandravenscroft.co.uk/products/white-semi-stiff-front-shirt) if you live outside the UK. Just make sure you wear a stiff starched collar with it.

 

[draws]

Formal Bib-Front Shirts - Recent purchase

I have just added these two white collarless vintage (30s/40s) shirts to my formal white tie and black tie ensembles. The bib front and cuffs are stiff as they should be. What is great is the second photo with the loops for braces which you rarely see. Both shirts have rear collar loops. I can't wait to receive them and try them on with collars, tie and waistcoat. My last purchase will be the tail coat and peaked lapel tuxedo (when I can come up with the money).

 

[Chasseur]

Charles and Draws,

Thanks for the replies. I've went with a marcella shirt from the Vintage shirt company and I'm quite pleased, I'm wearing with my white tie and tails in my avatar actually.