Stetson Sweat Stamps/ LOT XXXX

[alanfgag]

Hi Ross and all... after a few hundred posts on this research thread I am encouraged that the evidence continues to show a relationship between the LOTXXXX stamp numbers and a chronological history of production. We still don't know the meaning of the numbers- ie, is it hat production lots, or sweatband production lots? A purple union stamping that appears in the back of post war leathers suggests that in-house production of sweatbands might have ended around the time that the LOTXXXX stamps disappear. I haven't seen an obvious discrepancy - a low LOTXXXX number in a hat that is clearly later in the timeline. A couple of very old hats with high LOTXXXX numbers that have been posted in this thread might not be discrepancies - rather evidence for the numbering system having restarted sometime around the turn of the 20th century.

Assuming the LOT numbers are meaningful dating tools, the LOT6876 5XCB with NRA label (1933-35) posted above is a golden place marker. This morning I took a few photos of the hats I currently own with the Real Nutria Fur mark. Some have been posted earlier in this thread, but I've posted again below. Two of the hats with this mark I no longer own. Note that all hats below have taped rear sweatband seams. Stetson moved to a sewn rear seam sometime between the latest hat below and the NRA hat posted by Ross above. (Renovations done by Shudde Bros. and others did utilize taped rear seams well after WWII).

The hat with the lowest LOT number shows an earlier stylized version of the illustration found in a tall derby. LOT3266. Perhaps 1910-1920:

Long hair nutria western, LOT 4XXX, perhaps early to mid 1920s:

Another long hair western, LOT4427. Perhaps early to mid 1920s

Featherweight western, LOT5414. Perhaps later 1920s-1930.

 

[Hurricane Jack]

No.1 Quality The Nevadan (3x6, block #52)

Lot #7516 or Lot #7616? What say you?

I was hoping to find a date stamp but no luck. Size tag is missing.

Purple liner with gold crest

 

[alanfgag]

7616 I think... 1930s. Is the rear sweatband seam sewn closed?

 

[Hurricane Jack]

7616 I think... 1930s. Is the rear sweatband seam sewn closed?

Yes the seam is sewn, not taped. I thought it was 7616 also but every once in a while I thought it was a 5. Thanks Alan!

 

[Blare]

Yes the seam is sewn, not taped. I thought it was 7616 also but every once in a while I thought it was a 5. Thanks Alan!

I saw 6 too for what it’s worth... but then after you say five I can see that too. It’s another YANNI... LAUREL...

 

[RossRYoung]

Real Nutria quality - Lot #6287

Taped rear seam and the earliest Lot in my stable. The reed joint is not closely aligned with the rear sweat seam. I had not considered this but the seller tried to note it was a 20’s hat based on the seam tape and reed joint. I don’t consider this fully accurate, but I thought I’d include his note below for any possibly usable data:

 

[RossRYoung]

Just realized I never added my latest LOT here, it was shared on the No. 1 thread but hopefully this will entice more posts of the recent Pre 1940s pickups.

No. 1 quality BE ~ 6353

 

[NewJack]

This is a good thread as I too am interested in the rationale behind lot #s. Here's an example from a 40s Stetson Special:

 

[RossRYoung]

Here's an example from a 40s Stetson Special

great looking special! The #s you posted are a repeat of the reorder tag #s. LOT is usually found toward the front/forehead part of the sweat.

 

[Blare]

This is a good thread as I too am interested in the rationale behind lot #s. Here's an example from a 40s Stetson Special:

great looking special! The #s you posted are a repeat of the reorder tag #s. LOT is usually found toward the front/forehead part of the sweat.

Yes... look for big hand stamped LOT and usually 4 digits. LOT XXXX

 

[NewJack]

Yes... look for big hand stamped LOT and usually 4 digits. LOT XXXX

Got it!

 

[RossRYoung]

Got it!

Yessir! Others would know better but based on that LOT it might be a late 30s hat

 

[NewJack]

Yessir! Others would know better but based on that LOT it might be a late 30s hat

Cool!

 

[alanfgag]

Yessir! Others would know better but based on that LOT it might be a late 30s hat

Agree... Stetson Special was a five dollar depression era grade. The ones I’ve handled have a fabric liner with a slippery hand, acetate perhaps?

 

[Just Daniel]

Yes, go with Alan . I believe most of those Stetson Specials were 30s hats, prior to the full transition to Royal, Royal DeLuxe, etc.

I think the Special went from $20 to $5 at some point we have yet to actually define. I think Justin sold a 10-20s version that was labeled “Stetson Special Twenty“ to Dr Max.

...Here we are:

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/paging-dinerman-stetson-special.41868/

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/1910s-1920s-stetson-special-twenty.95336/

This is a good thread as I too am interested in the rationale behind lot #s. Here's an example from a 40s Stetson Special:

 

[alanfgag]

Yes, go with Alan . I believe most of those Stetson Specials were 30s hats, prior to the full transition to Royal, Royal DeLuxe, etc.

I think the Special went from $20 to $5 at some point we have yet to actually define. I think Justin sold a 10-20s version that was labeled “Stetson Special Twenty“ to Dr Max.

...Here we are:

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/paging-dinerman-stetson-special.41868/

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/1910s-1920s-stetson-special-twenty.95336/

I don't believe there is much connection between the earlier grade of the same name. I believe there is an advertisement shared on the Lounge somewhere that shows the 1930s adjustment to Stetson's price catalog... memory has it from $7 to $5 or thereabouts but it may be fuzzy memory speaking...

 

[RossRYoung]

I don't believe there is much connection between the earlier grade of the same name. I believe there is an advertisement shared on the Lounge somewhere that shows the 1930s adjustment to Stetson's price catalog... memory has it from $7 to $5 or thereabouts but it may be fuzzy memory speaking...

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/paging-dinerman-stetson-special.41868/#post-864925

 

[alanfgag]

Yes, thanks. I still think the $20 Stetson Special Quality referred to in the 1932 was a price/quality designation, along the same lines as Excellent Quality, Standard Quality, Select Quality, 3x, 4X, 5X, 7X Beaver Quality, etc. I think the late 1930s Stetson Select was a model unrelated to the earlier (and 4 times more expensive) hat grade. Those earlier high end hats must have been deluxe items, judging how few make it to the vintage market from that era (pre-1930) north of 3X Beaver Quality.

 

[Randall Renshaw]

Hate to interrupt, but was invited by Alan to insert my new Lot # as an addition to this interesting thread.
This beautiful Long hair Royal Stetson seems to date 1940 if understanding the info correctly. Plus, that was an estimate given by Alan in another thread.

I have one other hat having a LOT #
and it’s a mid 30s bowler, I believe.
Please correct me if wrong.

These Stetson Lot numbers remind me of the serial numbers stamped in the venerable hand built pre-war acoustic Martin guitars.
I run with a crowd of players and collectors who search out and sweat these numbers, for very good reason, as it accounts for each guitar’s value, worth and bragging rights.
I’ve been an avid vintage hat/fedora wearer/lover long before finding out that it was a “thing” folks did as a hobby/business.
Finding out that there’s numbers in a prewar Stetson that can determine its value is an awesome discovery—and you can best bet it will cause me to be ever more determined in this super fun hobby and take it more seriously.
Do Dobbs hats have numbers? I have a mint condition mid ‘30s homburg needing this type of validation.

 

[jlee562]

These hats are in other threads, but for posterity:

1922 Austral-like, BOP-adjacent No. 1 Quality, Lot 5066



I had assumed 1910's based on what I could find about the store imprint, but maybe not? Real Nutria Quality Boss Raw Edge, Lot 5895