Stetson 100-From Blah to Bling!

[tonyb]

I'm usually camped with the "leave-it-be" crowd. I have many old hats that rarely if ever come out of their boxes, let alone see the out of doors.

But I've been at this hat thing long enough now that I'm considerably less sentimental about it than I once was. It's not that I have any less appreciation for what is indeed a finite resource (they just ain't makin' any more 1920s through '50s vintage hats), but I've come to believe that new custom hats from good makers and constructed from 100 percent beaver felt bodies and other first-rate components are in many ways actually superior to all but the best hats made 60 and 70 and 80 years ago.

These days, I'll buy a vintage hat if there's something out of the ordinary about it, and if it can be had at a bargain price. (Not that I really need another hat that I won't be wearing.) But I also buy old hats that show obvious signs of wear expressly to take them apart and refurbish them, which often results in a "new" hat that scarcely resembles what it was originally. If that's a sin, well, save a chair for me down there.

 

[alanfgag]

I'm not a fan of taking an iron to the curl in a 1920s homburg, but for a 1960s Stetson 100... go for it. :eusa_clap

 

[buler]

Stetson made a raw edge western hat in the 100.

They also seem to have made a dress fedora 100. Jonbuilder has one and I believe one other went thru ebay.

See post here -> Stetson100Dress

B

 

[ideaguy]

OK- I'll just put on my Dobbs One Hundred and head off to the fancy antiques auction; soon as I can rustle up a couple grand to get in...

 

[danofarlington]

I guess the cure for all of this is price. A high price for a premium Stetson discourages alternate uses, whereas a low price encourages them. In principle, the market should sort it out. If a buyer gets one at a healthy price and then alters it, well, you pays your money and you gets your hat, come what may. Probably fewer alterations would be made to a high-priced hat than a low-priced one.

 

[ideaguy]

Oh-my. Went over to the hallway bookcase, took down & put on my Dobbs 50...very nice. Then pulled down the Dobbs 100.
WOW. What a difference in two outstanding hats. Never had the chance to try them side by each- the 50 is smooth, dense, soft,
just right for a formal Western/Country Fedora; the 100- I can't really describe how the felt feels, but it made my fingers feel
reeel good. Heck with the auction. Sit here and be happy with what I've got.

 

[winter_joe]

I say nice job on the refurb there sir wear it with pride. My grandpa had a Stetson one hundred from early fifties and he did not like it. He said it was too western for a dress hat if they were gonna make a 100 make it look nice is what he said lol. I disagree but he did say hats were ment to be worn not a collectors piece like a car cause in the end it's still a hat.

 

[fedoralover]

They also seem to have made a dress fedora 100. Jonbuilder has one and I believe one other went thru ebay.

See post here -> Stetson100Dress

B

And there you go, Stetson 100s came in different styles. My conversion still holds true to the originals.

fedoralover

 

[suitedcboy]

I am not seeing any reason for me to be fussed up over this.
If the hat needed a new sweat then it already is a numbers not matching hat, to borrow terminology from the car resto biz, and its value is substantially diminished.
The brim was not cut down so the hat can be returned to its original "glory" at a later time if there was to be a moth wrecked hat with a good sweat to become available.
I would feel a little concern if the hat was cut down and was forever altered (no disrespect for you dastardly brim cutters out there...)

 

[Florida_Marlin]

Stetson 100 Rancher

Here's a photo of a Stetson 100' raw edge rancher. It got converted, from a Cattleman's crease to a center crease, front pinch. Love it!

 

[RBH]

I'm not a fan of taking an iron to the curl in a 1920s homburg, but for a 1960s Stetson 100... go for it. :eusa_clap

Im not a fan of Homburgs... they could all be ironed for what I cared.

Truth be told... you own .... then own it.
Do with it what you will.

Especially homburgs!!!

 

[The Good]

The hat looked good before too, but it definitely looks cool now!

Im not a fan of Homburgs... they could all be ironed for what I cared.

Truth be told... you own .... then own it.
Do with it what you will.

Especially homburgs!!!

I like the way homburgs look, but not enough that it stopped me from converting my Stetson St. Regis to a fedora nearly two years ago. I didn't iron the curl though, instead I cut the brim with scissors. It looks good after that, too. The brim is 2 1/8", with a crown I brought down to a 4" teardrop crease. It's basically my dress fedora, while my other hats are more casual. I should consider getting another dress hat at some point, though.

 

[JAVIER]

I like the conversion... love the ribbon combo, I wish I owned it! Enjoy it.

 

[bond]

I Like the thread and want to say thanks to everyone on both sides of the issue about converting fine hats or leaving them as they are. Its always a
good consideration to weigh the pros and cons before diving in especially with good vintage hats. Usually the ones I convert or refurbish are in need ofnew sweats that are rotted or falling out ,or the felt is so dirty and the ribbons are dry rotted beyond saving that I feel this is enough of a consideration to rehab or convert a hat in order to make it wearable again. Now if I could only figure out a way to make those small hats larger...

 

[bond]

dbl printed response accidentally

 

[randooch]

I Like the thread and want to say thanks to everyone on both sides of the issue about converting fine hats or leaving them as they are. Its always a
good consideration to weigh the pros and cons before diving in especially with good vintage hats. Usually the ones I convert or refurbish are in need ofnew sweats that are rotted or falling out ,or the felt is so dirty and the ribbons are dry rotted beyond saving that I feel this is enough of a consideration to rehab or convert a hat in order to make it wearable again. Now if I could only figure out a way to make those small hats larger...

Agreed. It is indeed an interesting discussion.

 

[mayserwegener]

But I've been at this hat thing long enough now that I'm considerably less sentimental about it than I once was. It's not that I have any less appreciation for what is indeed a finite resource (they just ain't makin' any more 1920s through '50s vintage hats), but I've come to believe that new custom hats from good makers and constructed from 100 percent beaver felt bodies and other first-rate components are in many ways actually superior to all but the best hats made 60 and 70 and 80 years ago.

Sorry but I do not agree with this. Pre WWII the hat companies were operating at a very high level. Most controlled the entire process from felt production to finished hat. They had equipment and knowledge that was beyond the custom hatter of today and also of that time period. Doesn't matter if the hat was made out of fur or wool felt.

 

[The Wiser Hatter]

I agree with Steve their are fur blends like the velours and the long hairs that we will never see in the quality of pre war
Hats.

 

[bond]

Definitely agree with the later opinion here. Vintage felt process,felts, workmanship and materials are superior to anything NEWly made .

 

[rlk]

Would disagree with most of the latter remarks. Very few of the vintage hat bodies were of the quality level of the best of today's custom hats. They were marketed for a price point multiples lower even if adjusted for inflation. There are high end special finishes that were the expensive finest examples of their day, but most were ordinary despite high general standards and the competitive market. The most recent Optimo felts which I am most familiar with, in many specialty finishes including satin and longhair will surpass the majority of vintage examples. They are clearly better than even early American examples. Comparing to the Finest Austrian Velours which were very refined and expensive in their day is more challenging. Even 40's and 100's are not objectively better from a material standpoint( uniformity, density, lack of any inconsistent fibers or colors, voids etc.) Finishing varies and becomes more difficult to objectively rate.

A Golden haze exists over many vintage hats. The Borsalino Trionfo's of WW2, for example(just before bombing) were rabbit at the bottom end of their pricing. At the same time the best Velour was more than twice as expensive.
Well executed, but not materially special. The Royal Stetsons again, ordinary material and not special workmanship(sometimes less than that). Many manufacturers made only price point marketed hats and these don't approach modern custom materials at all. Stylish yes, but any attempt to objectively compare materials will find them mediocre.

With the exception of a few specialty finishes, felt processes are essentially the same for more than 100 years, and some of the machinery still in use is nearly that old too.

More on topic, the more hats I have and learn about, the less likely I've become to alter anything that is in good usable condition. Damaged sweatbands and ribbons can lower anxiety and give freedom to alterations. A change of ribbon is generally a reversible alteration in any case.