Spear point collar shirts

[Mr Badger]

Yeah, you should start a new chapter, if the lack of small sizes is making you 'Pachuco Hop'-ping mad!

 

[Edward]

Hey Edward, thanks chap.

They're perfect but, for a fella who's used to buying stuff off Ebay/when thrifting in the US, a little on the expensive side. Really impressed that they do 'stiff' and 'softer' versions of the spearpoint collar, tho' – guess I'll have to weigh up the pros'n'cons!

Tell me about it. At £30 a pop, I'd have raided my savings account and ordered me up ten in various colours / patterns.... but at that price, while I often think "I'll buy one, just for those big occasions when I really want to push the boat out....", it never quite happens....

Don't you find that it's difficult to properly set off your vintage suits, jackets, ties etc with a modern shirt, even if it's got a relatively vintage-ish collar? I find that the collars of modern shirts don't fill out the space between the lapels, which is generally more generous (quelle surprise!) than on modern suits...

My actual vintage suits so far are fifties (well, one actual fifties, another a late 50s cut but made in 1970), though over time I'm hoping to afford a few made up in 30s and 40s styles... and yes, it is a bit of a pain. Most of the shirts I end up wearing are button cuff.... I far and away prefer a double cuff for all but the most casual options, but the killer is that 99% of the options I see in shops now that have a double cuff come only with those very wide-splayed cutaway collars that have been popular in the City over the last decade. Lovely quality shirts, and all the time I see them cut down in price from £75 a pop to three for £75, but that collar style.... nope, not my favourite. I have a couple I do still wear, but it's not what I'll buy when it comes time to replace them. With button cuffs I can find a fairly fifties style collar fairly easily, enough to use a collar clip with. (And I've got some great shirts from, of all places, Sainsburys, that are like that), but still not perfect. I do have one utterly beautiful shirt - pale pink/white herringbone weave cotton, double cuffs, spearpoint collar (at least, a modern equivalent which is as near to the collars in the pictures I posted above as makes no damn difference), removeable stiffeners, the works. I adore it - best quality fitting and feeling shirt I've ever owned. William Hunt, Saville Row.... I won it on eBay, still boxed and unopened, for £25 - seller said he'd gotten the wrong size by mistake.... There was a price label on the box when it arrived - £135 if memory serves - so I doubt I'll be off to the Row for more in any hurry!

We can live in hope that fashions will change... until then, I'm considering after Christmas having a go with tailor.co.uk and Marksies' made to measure service, both of which offer what looks like a sensibly long, pointed collar shirt, working out at between £25 and £30, which is much more bearable. I'd also like to try one of Indy Magnoli's, though I've been waiting for the pound to come up again against the dollar a bit....

Hmmmm, I seem to remember the guys I knew on London's mod scene getting really nice shirts made by a lady in the West End for around £30-£40. Mebbe I'll do a bit of scouting around – I'll be sure to let the FL crew know!

Oh, do! If they're anything like the thing, that'd be a great price.... If you can find someone like that too it might even be worth picking up one of the VSC shirts to pass to them and say 'copy this!'

 

[cptjeff]

Slim fit usually refers for the way a garment fits in relationship to a person's body, so yes, a 20"-20 1/2" (4XL) can be slim fit.

People who need that size are typically nowhere near slim though. Limited market.

And I'm not really complaining about a lack of small sizes so much- I'm used to that by now. I simply find it amazing that they think there's enough of a market in the 4x division, not exactly a common size, but not enough of one to justify a small.

And if you did talk to a bunch of small guys, you would find that lack of smaller sizes in today's fashion world is a very common frustration. Vintage clothing is one solution to that, the only other real alternative is shopping by size. Next time you're out shopping, take a look at how many smalls there are in most clothing styles. A good number of manufacturers don't even make them.

 

[skyvue]

I've been pleased with the collars on some of the shirts I've purchased from Paul Fredrick.

They offer a number of collar styles, but the one called European Straight Collar is probably closest to what you're seeking.

http://bit.ly/spearcollar

They're mid-range in price, but I've received two catalogues from them that included "Buy one item, get the second item free" offers, which makes them something of a steal. Perhaps if you contacted them to request a catalogue, you'd receive a similar offer.

Here's a fuzzy picture of one of my PF shirts:

 

[Marc Chevalier]

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Just about no one is producing these today. Too bad.

 

[mike]

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Just about no one is producing these today. Too bad.

Did you think about asking Matt?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Did you think about asking Matt?

I did ... in the "Matt Deckard Apparel" thread. No response.

.

 

[Forgotten Man]

I did ... in the "Matt Deckard Apparel" thread. No response.

.

Figures.lol

Isn't odd that some who "claim" to reproduce shirts and such never seem to really make actual copies of the originals that no one else seems to do? I tell ya, if someone made a slew of these shirts, in colors like that and many others (white being a standard) and priced them within grasp of most here, they'd be set!

 

[mike]

Figures.lol

Isn't odd that some who "claim" to reproduce shirts and such never seem to really make actual copies of the originals that no one else seems to do? I tell ya, if someone made a slew of these shirts, in colors like that and many others (white being a standard) and priced them within grasp of most here, they'd be set!

I think a lot of the really incredibly beautiful, intricate weaves going on in a lot of golden era shirts would be virtually impossible to reproduce today. But that shouldn't stop anyone from nailing the pattern and subsequently amassing a small fortune from the collective likes of us folks.

 

[Mysterious Mose]

Got this from BellyTank:

Deadstock Swedish workshirt, pullover, gussets. It's a beauty.

 

[Mysterious Mose]

As expected:

Pinkie Brown, Brighton Rock. Best outfit ever in a movie.

 

[Mysterious Mose]

Charles Boyer:

 

[Fletch]

As expected:

Pinkie Brown, Brighton Rock. Best outfit ever in a movie.

Of course everyone knows that's Dickie Attenborough at r, and that it's an unsung 1947 classic from a Graham Greene thriller. But I can recommend it, even if just for its style.

Look at the fella at l. Finely cut and executed houndstooth peak lapel - a tick or two loud perhaps - but with handwarmer pockets! On all that elegance! That's how you know he's a vain cat, without near as much class as he'd like to think.

 

[Mysterious Mose]

Yep! Beltback extravaganza. Pinkie's suit is incredible. Doctor Who's houndstooth has interesting pockets. Nice enough movie. It's not that unsung over here.

Edit: Hey, you just added that about the pockets.

 

[Fletch]

Just noticed 'em. Given the tradition and class context of English tailoring at the time, I don't think you can overstate the significance of a touch like that.

 

[Mysterious Mose]

You can't. It's really an outrageous suit. The guys in Pinkie 's gang all dress pretty loud.

 

[Mysterious Mose]

Look at the fella at l. Finely cut and executed houndstooth peak lapel - a tick or two loud perhaps - but with handwarmer pockets! On all that elegance! That's how you know he's a vain cat, without near as much class as he'd like to think.

:eusa_clap Man, such eloquence! That's a perfect definition of the guy.

 

[Tomasso]

Jantzen offer a few collars that may work, here's one:

HK$310 - HK$360 (approx US$40 - US$47), plus HK$50 (US$8) for regular air mail postage on each shirt.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

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Getting closer! Reminds me a LOT of 1940s "Bold Look" dress shirt collars. Long, but practically without the scimitar curve.

Indy Magnoli has also nailed the '40s long collar: http://www.magnoliclothiers.com/jake-gittes-shirt-shirts-p-91.html

Jantzen offer a few collars that may work, here's one:

HK$310 - HK$360 (approx US$40 - US$47), plus HK$50 (US$8) for regular air mail postage on each shirt.

 

[Mysterious Mose]

http://www.listerouge.fr/styles/styles.php