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Smoking Jackets

Pyroxene

One of the Regulars
Messages
221
Location
Central Texas
I was wondering if anyone knew of a place to get a smoking jacket. Most all the searches turn up costumes.

Is there a difference in say a sports coat and a smoking jacket? I guess velvet smoking jackets are more formal.

I was watching Mr. Blandings Builds his dreamhouse today and saw some really nice ones.

blandings3_smokingjacket.jpg


blandings4_smokingjacket.jpg


I have a tweed jacket that I am not too fond of that I am using right now. Any leads on makers that take jackets seriously would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Pyro.
 

PrettyBigGuy

A-List Customer
Messages
367
Location
Elgin, IL
Originally posted by Pyroxene

Is there a difference in say a sports coat and a smoking jacket? I guess velvet smoking jackets are more formal.

I'm no expert, but sport coats and blazers are slightly less formal then suits. They can be worn with slacks that are not the same color so they are more versatile.
Smoking jackets are like silk robes but they are short like a suit jacket. They have a tie at the waste instead of buttons. They may have been worn while relaxing in an arm chair and smoking to keep the wearer warm and so their suit jacket didn't wrinkle.
Now I'll sit back while the Suit Forum moderators shoot holes in my theory!:)
PBG
 

havershaw

Practically Family
Messages
716
Location
mesa, az
hmmmm...I always thought smoking jackets were the robe-type things. I'm guessing there's something else which is considered a smoking jacket, which is what you're looking for?

I got a robe-type 30s deco smoking jacket (only 1 pocket) on eBay for about $19. I lost quite a few others I bid on initially, but the one I got is my favorite. I lucked out.
 

Pyroxene

One of the Regulars
Messages
221
Location
Central Texas
I did see that site. I thought is was quite interesting that they would list the items they have sold. Why would one want to see that?

Anyway, mainly all I can really find are robe version. They have a sash that ties around.

I was hoping for something more in the jacket direction. Like this.

smoking_jacket.jpg


This jacket seems to be a one-button single-breasted. From what I have read, the collar is sometime a different fabric than the jacket.

I found this site. http://www.cigaraficionado.com/Cigar/CA_Archives/CA_Show_Article/0,2322,384,00.html

According to this article, a firm called Sulka makes them. As do Brioni USA but I am having trouble locating website. Turnbull & Asser have a site, http://www.turnbullandasser.com but I am having difficulty finding prices. I have a feeling it's going to be expensive.

"Well, what I see is that men like to wear these jackets for at-home dinners and entertaining," says Mr. Leonard Logsdail, a Savile Row tailor now based in New York. "They're comfortable, not as formal as a dinner jacket, and quite distinctive"...The well-decorated Victorian house now often contained a moking room. This was a convenient place for a gentleman and his friends (males only) to retire for good cigars, brandy, political talk, and perhaps a little risqu?ɬ© banter.


Sounds like my kind of house.
 

havershaw

Practically Family
Messages
716
Location
mesa, az
I can see why you'd want one. those look great. Llike a suit jacket, with tuxedo collar.

Myabe you should look up tuxedo jackets on eBay. I saw a few last week which were NOT black or white and looked to be sort of like this. They were listed as tuxedo jackets. Most people who wouldn't know any better might see that tux collar and list it as that.

I find some of my best bargains through mis-listings and bad spelling.
 

Art Fawcett

Sponsoring Affiliate
Messages
3,717
Location
Central Point, Or.
Pyroxene, what you have there in the photo is not a smoking jacket but rather a dinner jacket for summer formal wear. I think you are aware of this, just wanted to make sure . The dinner jacket is usually "Palm Beach" fabric, but rayon was used alot also. I have never seen a shawl collar dinner jacket with a different lapel material. That is only done in Smoking jackets and Tuxedo's. Sulka is one of the finest men's wear makers in the world and have the prices to prove it. They have been on top for over 70 yrs that i know of. Are you looking for modern Dinner Jackets or vintage?
 

Pyroxene

One of the Regulars
Messages
221
Location
Central Texas
Here's how I got started on this...

I understand that most smoking jackets are formal velvet jackets worn in the smoking room when dining. Typically, they are dark green, dark violet, black, burgundy or dark blue.

I wouldn't mind finding one like these, either.

smoking_jacket2.jpg


When watching Mr. Blandings.. Melvyn Douglas wears a jacket while smoking his pipe at the Blanding's house and drinking with Mrs. Blandings. At the same time, Cary Grant is stuck at work trying to think of an ad idea. But all he can think of is "..sitting with my pipe and slippers while wearing my new smoking jacket and reading the paper..."

Then at the end of the movie, that's what you see him doing. Here's a better shot of the jacket.

blandings6_smokingjacket.jpg


That's when I started to wonder, is there a formal smoking jacket like the ones pictured above and an informal version? Or, are Douglas and Grant just smoking in their dinner jackets? I admittedly don't know my dress jackets well enough yet but are they just wearing sports coats? In both scenes, they are just wearing slacks and a button shirt. The white jacket pictured above was listed as a smoking jacket and was the closest match I could find to what Cary Grant is wearing.

I can truly understand the importance of a smoking jacket especially with a pipe. I have cinged a few holes in some shirts due to some hot ash. I currently have a few "smoking shirts" just for the event. I don't care for the robe version as it's too "Heffner" for me. I have two dressing gowns that I use and that's enough.

I am looking for a jacket that doesn't look too formal and somewhat dressy. I would hate to smoke in something vintage and ruin it. And, finding something vintage in my size has proven difficult.

A jacket that will protect me and my clothes from the smoke smell and the occasional hot ash.

Thanks,
Pyro.
 

Art Fawcett

Sponsoring Affiliate
Messages
3,717
Location
Central Point, Or.
What size are you Pyroxene? I can only offer vintage, which you hesitate to wear for the occasion but, can I suggest that you pick up a "used" dinner jacket from a local Tuxedo rental company? They often will rotate stock & sell off the older ones cheap. Since they are not vintage, but are formal enough to feel comfortable in, AND are cheap enough to not go nuts when that occasional ash drops, it just might be the ticket.
As to smoking jackets, I have a number of them that are not the "traditional" variety but hesitate to offer them because of the reasons you stated.. The lapel treatment is different on most so I won't completely rule out the possibility that the lapels could be of the same material, I just have never seen one. Quite often what is made for film is not available off the rack, but if you are lucky the film catches on and so do the clothes.
 

Art Fawcett

Sponsoring Affiliate
Messages
3,717
Location
Central Point, Or.
What size are you Pyroxene? I can only offer vintage, which you hesitate to wear for the occasion but, can I suggest that you pick up a "used" dinner jacket from a local Tuxedo rental company? They often will rotate stock & sell off the older ones cheap. Since they are not vintage, but are formal enough to feel comfortable in, AND are cheap enough to not go nuts when that occasional ash drops, it just might be the ticket.
As to smoking jackets, I have a number of them that are not the "traditional" variety but hesitate to offer them because of the reasons you stated.. The lapel treatment is different on most so I won't completely rule out the possibility that the lapels could be of the same material, I just have never seen one. Quite often what is made for film is not available off the rack, but if you are lucky the film catches on and so do the clothes.
You have a real challenge on your hands finding one.
 

farnham54

A-List Customer
Messages
404
Location
Guelph, Ontario, Canada
My Grandfather, the little I did see of him, told me once how in Ireland smoking jackets were used. Often, they were a velvety-robe type jacket, though a sport coat style was not uncommon.

After dinner, the Men retired to a study of sorts for some Brandy and something to Smoke (Cigar, Pipe). He said the main purpose of the jacket was to keep some of the smoke smell out of dinner attire, and to prevent ashes from burning an expensive dinner suit.

Of course, there could and probobly are other reasons for the smoking jackets.

Regards,

Farn

P.S. Isn't Hugh Heffner always wearing PJ's and a velvet robe-style smoking jacket?
 

PADDY

I'll Lock Up
Bartender
Messages
7,425
Location
METROPOLIS OF EUROPA
Smoking jackets.

Guys, my idea of a smoking jacket is velvet (maybe in dark red or royal blue, or a purple colour), quilted, comes down as far as a blazer would, with a wrap around tie and lapels. Very much the Noel Coward look, to be worn with a shirt and cravat! Very 'avant garde!' with your Cohibo and brandy in hand.
 

Pyroxene

One of the Regulars
Messages
221
Location
Central Texas
Well,

I would have to agree, Paddy. I would love to find one in my size.

The dinner jacket/converted tux jacket turned out to be perfect. In the cool months, I wear it all the time. I just keep my lighter in there and I always know where it is.

I get compliments on it too. I put it on with a pair of slacks and an old shirt and all of a sudden I am "All dressed up." The neat thing is that in a dimly lit bar, you can't see that it's a tux jacket. So, all is good.

Cheers,
Pyro.
 

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