Slimmer cut D-pocket jackets

[ckramer]

I posted a while ago about looking for an understated d-pocket jacket and several people referred me to the AL Detroit jacket, which is superb. I decided, though, that the Schott Perfecto is at heart what I'm really looking for and the blingier details I want to avoid would be easy to change (i.e. removing the belt or getting blacked out snaps put on the lapels, etc). My problem and the reason I cannot pull the trigger on it is I hear too much about sizing issues and am unable to go anywhere to try one on. Are the current Perfectos cut for men with guts and short arms? I'm a tall guy, 6' 4", but I've got a 32" waist and wider shoulders, thus making me the wrong candidate for a Schott if the above is true. If anyone can give me some advice regarding Schott or a well-cut alternative for Schott money (sorry, no AL or Aero for me for a while) I would greatly appreciate it.

-A

 

[nick123]

Johnson. I'd absolutely look at them ($600-700 gives you an absolutely custom jacket). Their stock models are probably a tad bigger in the upper arms/shoulders than the ultra-thin perfectos you see 1970s rock n' rollers wearing, but I'm nearly positive they would be able to slightly adjust their stock model to suit your needs.

 

[Dinerman]

Do you want the earlier style D-pocket arrangement or the arrangement of pockets like on a Perfecto?

 

[ckramer]

I just realized that Schott currently only makes one D-pocket jacket. I was thinking for some reason the 618 was a D but definitely is not.

 

[zhz]

problem is , the 618 is not a D pocket jacket...but it is a nice jacket.

 

[tropicalbob]

Nick123 is right about Johnson's. You also might want to look at Pegasus Leathers in Paris. They currently have two d-pockets on sale (very slightly used) for $700-800. One's a 40 and the other 's a 44.

 

[Monitor]

ckramer, asymmetrical style jackets from Schott indeed are quite belly-friendly and at 6" of height, I personally found sleeves on 618 to be way too short for any serious riding. By some unfathomable logic, Schott insists on having the same sleeve length for jackets in 5 size numbers; for example, 25 inches sleeve length on 618 ranging from size 38 to 48.

Did you take a look at the Legendary USA D-pocket?
http://www.legendaryusa.com/Legendary-Black-Stallion-Horsehide-Jacket-p/2400.htm
Their jackets are made by Schott (or rather, by the same factory that produces garments for Schott) and this is an absolutely beautiful Buco repro for a great price, but I don't know if their gear is cut the same way. Regarding quality, it's Schott so I'm sure you can only expect the best.

 

[zhz]

Schott has new model, 629, which is a D pocket jacket.

 

[Edward]

In terms of fit, the Schott 613 and 618 are cut as per vintage fit, whereas the 118 is a much boxier, more modern cut. Both are Perfectos, though, not D-pockets, as has been noted, and only come in one sleeve length.

I would second the recommendation to check out Johnson. I can't comment on their customer service as I bought mine used, but I'm very impressed with the quality of the product. Certainly as good as Schott, and snapping after the heels of the big boys. The body on mine is cut just a little longer than vintage; the sleeves are definitely ovder an inch longer than the average vintage jacket. My impression is that it has been cut with a modern bike with a much less upright riding position very much in mind.

The Schott P628 is a very subtle D-pocket with a muted colour zip (black on black). http://www.schottnyc.com/products/vintage-vegetable-tanned-cowhide-d-pocket.htm Supposedly a recreation of the original Schott Perfecto of 1928, though I rather suspect black zips weren't an option then! Fit looks fairly slim in the photos.

Not sured how slim cut they are, but in terms of the black-on-black, minimalist look (althoughb minus a D pocket):

Vanson Force Police Jacket

http://www.silvermans.co.uk/tabid/6...ICE+JACKET/0/SKU/7-195-6989-2082/Default.aspx

A little bit more expensive than a Schott over here, but not quite Aero / ELC money. Might be cheaper in the US?

 

[IXL]

ckramer, asymmetrical style jackets from Schott indeed are quite belly-friendly and at 6" of height, I personally found sleeves on 618 to be way too short for any serious riding. By some unfathomable logic, Schott insists on having the same sleeve length for jackets in 5 size numbers; for example, 25 inches sleeve length on 618 ranging from size 38 to 48.

Did you take a look at the Legendary USA D-pocket?
http://www.legendaryusa.com/Legendary-Black-Stallion-Horsehide-Jacket-p/2400.htm
Their jackets are made by Schott (or rather, by the same factory that produces garments for Schott) and this is an absolutely beautiful Buco repro for a great price, but I don't know if their gear is cut the same way. Regarding quality, it's Schott so I'm sure you can only expect the best.

I have one of these, in brown horsehide and having brass zippers, and it has been a fine jacket. It is more slim fitting than my Schott #118, both size 42, and the D-pocket is just plain cool!

 

[Joao Encarnado]

I'm really looking for and the blingier details I want to avoid would be easy to change (i.e. removing the belt or getting blacked out snaps put on the lapels, etc).

I don't see why pay $600 for a jacket and then remove or paint parts, better to go custom. I have a Perfecto that someone painted the snaps and guess what? The ink fell off leaving residue. You'll never be happy with it.

In terms of fit, the Schott 613 and 618 are cut as per vintage fit, whereas the 118 is a much boxier, more modern cut. Both are Perfectos, though, not D-pockets, as has been noted, and only come in one sleeve length.

I thought the cut of a 118 was the same of a 618 only changing the leather (118-cowhide / 618-steerhide)

 

[Dinerman]

The Schott P628 is a very subtle D-pocket with a muted colour zip (black on black). http://www.schottnyc.com/products/vintage-vegetable-tanned-cowhide-d-pocket.htm Supposedly a recreation of the original Schott Perfecto of 1928, though I rather suspect black zips weren't an option then! Fit looks fairly slim in the photos.

Zips weren't an option at all back then. The separable bottom wasn't even on the market until 1930. It's a shame a company with a rich history like Schott has decided to write their own.

 

[Edward]

I don't see why pay $600 for a jacket and then remove or paint parts, better to go custom. I have a Perfecto that someone painted the snaps and guess what? The ink fell off leaving residue. You'll never be happy with it.

I agree. Johnson seem to be priced at Schott money - I'm sure they could do a D pocket style with black hardware and no belt very easily, without the extra cost and hassle.

I thought the cut of a 118 was the same of a 618 only changing the leather (118-cowhide / 618-steerhide)

The leather differs, but the 118 is also a more generous / modern fit. The 618HH is the same jqacket as the 618 except in, unsurprisingly, horsehide.

Zips weren't an option at all back then. The separable bottom wasn't even on the market until 1930. It's a shame a company with a rich history like Schott has decided to write their own.

Of course, I didn't think of that... The orignal must have been buttons, then. Pity they don't go with that, it would look superb (though I suppose it might limit their market). Either way, it's a nice looking jacket at least, though I agree, why pass it off as what it is not?

 

[Joao Encarnado]

The leather differs, but the 118 is also a more generous / modern fit. The 618HH is the same jqacket as the 618 except in, unsurprisingly, horsehide.

I own a 618 size 40, a 125 (in brown) size 42, a 918 size M and a 625 size 46 (I wear it on top of another jacket on really cold days) so can´t compare.

 

[Monitor]

I don't know how much boxier 118 can be - I wear all my jackets in size 42 and I had a Multipocket in size 38, which supposedly is the same cut as 118, and could still fit a shirt underneath.

Edward, according to Schott pattern chart, Perfectos above size no. 48 have 26 inch sleeves.