Slant pockets on suits?

[Fidena]

Is this something that can be pulled off? Instead of the normal flap pocket on a jacket, they had "hand warmer" pockets. It seemed pretty popular back in the teens and early twenties- a sporty look for the sporty suits of the time. Here are a few examples:

I've noticed that they also have slanted breast pockets.

 

[Yeps]

That is interesting, since it looks more like a coat than a suit jacket. I think it works, but it would feel out of place to me as soon as I went inside.

 

[Fidena]

That is interesting, since it looks more like a coat than a suit jacket. I think it works, but it would feel out of place to me as soon as I went inside.

If it helps at all, in the catalogue pages I've seen them in they're usually described as "young men's suits" or "novelty suits". I don't quite know what a novelty suit is, or what the occasion one wore them at in the 20's, but it;s interesting nonetheless.

 

[Nick D]

Novelty is just what it says on the tin, something new and rather unconventional. But, the slant pocket (not quite that slanted) is a standard feature on hacking jackets and outdoor wear, and that suit has a definite sportswear feel to it.

 

[dustyjohnson10]

great thinking but it still is old fashioned. something new should be introduced which can catch people's interest.

 

[Matt_the_chap]

I'd definitely have them on my suits to both set them apart and make them comfortable as I like to keep my hands in my pockets. You could have deeper pockets as a result.

They might be rather more exciting if a way could be found of putting a flap on them, or would that look hideous to all but me?

 

[Feraud]

great thinking but it still is old fashioned. something new should be introduced which can catch people's interest.

As I pointed out in the three button suit thread members post on this forum because those "old fashioned" styles appeal to us.

There are trendy fashion message boards out there if you want to push the fashionable angle.

To answer the OP, if a suit in that cut is available, I can pull it off.

 

[Fidena]

The belt definately adds to the sporty look. Does anyone else love the cut of that peak lapel? It doesn't shoot to the sky like most, and instead drifts down slightly, almost like a notch. Seemed pretty popular back in the early 1900's.

 

[TCMfan25]

I like the Half Peaks!

 

[Maj.Nick Danger]

Very nice. Looks like it was directly inspired by uniforms from the first war. It does have a sort of outer wear look.

 

[MisterCairo]

I've never seen jackets like those before. I see different things each time I look back - a coat, a dressing gown, a smoking jacket. The belted jacket in the photograph looks almost trench-coatish. Different images come to mind. Do you have any written descriptions of these suits, or does anyone else?

 

[Fidena]

I've never seen jackets like those before. I see different things each time I look back - a coat, a dressing gown, a smoking jacket. The belted jacket in the photograph looks almost trench-coatish. Different images come to mind. Do you have any written descriptions of these suits, or does anyone else?

I'll try and find a description.

In the meantime, here are a few more examples.

(The fellow all the way to the right)

When I order a suit from magnoli, I'm going to try and see if they can pull off a suit like one of these.

 

[Oldsarge]

It looks very country. I can imagine a suit with a half belt and slant pockets made from a Donegal tweed as just the ticket for watching the local Hunt ride by or possibly to investigate the possibilities of the nearest chalk stream. Frankly, I like it a lot. If my parents still owned that winery in the Napa Valley it would be perfect wear to go visit them. Alas, those days are past.

 

[Yeps]

I'll try and find a description.

In the meantime, here are a few more examples.

I like this one (the chap in the lower left). I don't think the full belt looks particularly good on a jacket instead of a coat or similar outerwear, but the slant pockets are nice with the half belt like that suit. I would definitely wear it.

 

[Fidena]

I like this one (the chap in the lower left). I don't think the full belt looks particularly good on a jacket instead of a coat or similar outerwear, but the slant pockets are nice with the half belt like that suit. I would definitely wear it.

I agree. The lack of shoulder padding and high armholes also adds to the nice sporty look.

 

[Qirrel]

There is shoulder padding, I assure you. The sleeve head is just made differently than today, without the "rope" effect. There would also probably be padding all around the armscye, even in the back of the jacket.

 

[Fidena]

There is shoulder padding, I assure you. The sleeve head is just made differently than today, without the "rope" effect. There would also probably be padding all around the armscye, even in the back of the jacket.

Could you explain what those two terms mean? Color me interested.

Edit: if it was made out of heavy enough wool, (say 20 oz ) would it still need shoulder padding? Given it's sportwear, I wouldn't consider that too heavy.

 

[Qirrel]

Could you explain what those two terms mean? Color me interested.

Edit: if it was made out of heavy enough wool, (say 20 oz ) would it still need shoulder padding? Given it's sportwear, I wouldn't consider that too heavy.

Armscye is basically the armhole and sleeve head/cap is the top of the sleeve. And roping, if you didn't know, is when the sleeve looks like it has a rope inside it right along the seam at the shoulder. There would be less material (in general) in the shoulder pad than has been common for the past few years, but still much more than the "soft construction" which is all the rage nowadays on various other forums. It gives a "natural" shoulder but neatly so.
No jacket strictly needs shoulder padding (depending of course on the desired style, "softness" and so on), but I'm fairly certain all the suits & jackets pictured in this thread have it.
An illustratory diagram: http://www.archive.org/stream/newsupremesystem00croo#page/206/mode/1up
Diagram C shows a common way of using the padding. What you are looking at is the inside of the suit. You can see a straight line through the canvas in the illustration, which is where the lapel will fold back. To the right of that line is the padding (or wadding), and to the right again is the armhole. As you can see, the piece of padding envelops the armhole.
Btw, this book contains a few fashion illustrations too.

 

[Fidena]

Armscye is basically the armhole and sleeve head/cap is the top of the sleeve. And roping, if you didn't know, is when the sleeve looks like it has a rope inside it right along the seam at the shoulder. There would be less material (in general) in the shoulder pad than has been common for the past few years, but still much more than the "soft construction" which is all the rage nowadays on various other forums. It gives a "natural" shoulder but neatly so.
No jacket strictly needs shoulder padding (depending of course on the desired style, "softness" and so on), but I'm fairly certain all the suits & jackets pictured in this thread have it.
An illustratory diagram: http://www.archive.org/stream/newsupremesystem00croo#page/206/mode/1up
Diagram C shows a common way of using the padding. What you are looking at is the inside of the suit. You can see a straight line through the canvas in the illustration, which is where the lapel will fold back. To the right of that line is the padding (or wadding), and to the right again is the armhole. As you can see, the piece of padding envelops the armhole.
Btw, this book contains a few fashion illustrations too.

That's an excellent resource. Thanks for the info! Btw, do you know what year the book is from?

If I gave one of these illustrations to a tailor, would it be enough for him to know how to construct it?

 

[Nick D]

Check out p. 166, 'Novelty Dinner Jacket', it has those nearly-vertical pockets.