SJC Flat track goatskin jacket review and a question

[Metatron]

Hey guys, I wanted to give my thoughts on the SJC goatskin jacket as I don't think it has been discussed around here.

At it's price point it is a great option if you like the 30s-50s short leather jacket style. It is well made, the goatskin has a rich colour and while it appears a bit flat and shiny at first glance, I think it will age rather well and more grain will come out with time as well as a more matt appearance after it has been in the rain. The lining is a mid weight flannel cotton and the sleeves are cotton sateen, so breathable and easy to slip on. It has a 24 inch back length, which means it can be worn with high waisted trousers (hem level with rear pocket) and Levis 501s but anything lower waisted might look a bit off. You can't have everything at this price point, and the zips operation is a bit rough, time will tell how well they hold up.

As some people here have a lot of experience with leather, I wanted to ask for your opinion about a concern I have with the fit: there is a slope from the shoulder seam to the collar which sits quite high on my neck. my shoulders are actually square, so the area where the jacket shoulder meets the collar is actually not sitting on my shoulder. Do you think this will relax as the jacket breaks in?

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Don't ever remember seeing a chest pocket slanted in that direction.

 

[Metatron]

I have, here is a 50s jacket that I own.

Slanted the other way seems to make more practical sense, but I guess this way your hand on the same side can access it more comfortably rather than the opposite side.

 

[Aerielle Max]

I have, here is a 50s jacket that I own.

Slanted the other way seems to make more practical sense, but I guess this way your hand on the same side can access it more comfortably rather than the opposite side.

Wow, this one looks really cool. Thank you for sharing.

 

[Boyo]

@Metatron, I do think that area around the shoulders will soften up and begin to follow your natural shoulder line with wear and time.
It’s an interesting jacket and certainly has a vintage vibe to it. Might be the lighting in your photos but it does seem very shiny. I would prefer a bit more taper to the sleeve cuff as these look wide, but otherwise it looks pretty good. Goatskin is notoriously slow to break in and show any aging so get after it.

 

[navetsea]

I have flat shoulder and I wear my jacket with slope shoulders, the answer is it depends on the leather and where the shoulder seam is (right on top of across your shoulder or slightly to the front) , your shoulder seam is right on top and slightly curved usually it will last like that even after years or even after being washed/ rained on. imagine your roof ridge on a tent if placed right on top it is pretty stable structure even when nothing underneath, but if you shift it to the front a little then the whole roof is sagging.

 

[navetsea]

Right on top of the shoulder
3 years and 4 years been washed in washing machine, rained, conditioned,
Both not touching my shoulder when worn buttoned or zipped



This one i is 10months old, very sturdy stiff leather, but i asked for the seam to be rotated forward more than normal, and it is crumbled when worn

 

[Marc mndt]

Don't ever remember seeing a chest pocket slanted in that direction.

I've got a jacket incoming this week with two pockets slanted in this direction

 

[MrProper]

Hey guys, I wanted to give my thoughts on the SJC goatskin jacket as I don't think it has been discussed around here.

At it's price point it is a great option if you like the 30s-50s short leather jacket style. It is well made, the goatskin has a rich colour and while it appears a bit flat and shiny at first glance, I think it will age rather well and more grain will come out with time as well as a more matt appearance after it has been in the rain. The lining is a mid weight flannel cotton and the sleeves are cotton sateen, so breathable and easy to slip on. It has a 24 inch back length, which means it can be worn with high waisted trousers (hem level with rear pocket) and Levis 501s but anything lower waisted might look a bit off. You can't have everything at this price point, and the zips operation is a bit rough, time will tell how well they hold up.

As some people here have a lot of experience with leather, I wanted to ask for your opinion about a concern I have with the fit: there is a slope from the shoulder seam to the collar which sits quite high on my neck. my shoulders are actually square, so the area where the jacket shoulder meets the collar is actually not sitting on my shoulder. Do you think this will relax as the jacket breaks in?

Cool. Looks like a time machine sent the jacket straight from the 30s.

 

[l0fielectronic]

Thanks for posting this, its nice to see some more photos of one of the SJC jackets.
I saw the other day that they are doing this jacket in a two-tone colour way at the moment.

 

[Edward]

Hey guys, I wanted to give my thoughts on the SJC goatskin jacket as I don't think it has been discussed around here.

It's great to see photos of this. The timing was wrong for me to pick up one of these, but I am open to them in future. The design is interesting; it has a genuine period look to it, but it is also distinctly different to my other, usual suppliers, which is nice. I know with this price band Simon is aiming for it to be accessible to a different market than our usually preferred brands round here, but what's really positive about it is that it isn't trying to be a cheaper equivalent of an Aero or an Eastman - it's a design of its own. That has an appeal which makes it that much more attractive in and of itself rather than "oh, I want a cheaper jacket", if that makes sense. (Not a criticism of any party mentioned, to be clear.)

I rather like the sleeves. The proportions look right to me. They are "unusual" in that I think we're all so used to seeing a button cuff pulling it in like a shirt, which makes it seem wider I think. That's another point of difference with everything else in my collection, which would make it more appealing. It does give it a utilitarian vibe, which I like. (Probably also simplifies the design/manufacture somewhat, with the bonus being that, building to a price point, you can do simpler better.)

I was wary of the back seam at first in the website photos, but seeing it clearly here, it is very nicely done. I think including the bottom horizontal panel, rather than having the seam run all the way to the hem, gives it a classier look.

At it's price point it is a great option if you like the 30s-50s short leather jacket style. It is well made, the goatskin has a rich colour and while it appears a bit flat and shiny at first glance, I think it will age rather well and more grain will come out with time as well as a more matt appearance after it has been in the rain. The lining is a mid weight flannel cotton and the sleeves are cotton sateen, so breathable and easy to slip on. It has a 24 inch back length, which means it can be worn with high waisted trousers (hem level with rear pocket) and Levis 501s but anything lower waisted might look a bit off. You can't have everything at this price point, and the zips operation is a bit rough, time will tell how well they hold up.

Reissue 501s presumably? (I always found the cut of them was on my hips, but now I think about it it's a good decade or so since I last had a pair, may have changed?)

Hide looks nice. Typical of goatskin in my experience is it relaxes, almost has the drape of broken-in denim. Grain will come out but it won't have that same wear off the surface and discolouration you get with some hides. For want of a better word, it will look "dressier" for much longer - a good thing in my book if you're going to wear it as much with slacks and a tie as jeans and a tshirt.

How are you finding the lining temperature-wise? Are there storm-cuffs? The shell looks like it could be a great option for a warmer-weather leather, if the lining isn't too warm. Is the cotton sateen breathable? I did have an issue wearing a jacket with an artificial (poly) satin lining in the past - stuck to my skin very quickly when warm, which made me wary of shiny fabrics. I've not tried cotton sateen though.

As some people here have a lot of experience with leather, I wanted to ask for your opinion about a concern I have with the fit: there is a slope from the shoulder seam to the collar which sits quite high on my neck. my shoulders are actually square, so the area where the jacket shoulder meets the collar is actually not sitting on my shoulder. Do you think this will relax as the jacket breaks in?

I'm sure it will relax a bit. Whether it falls right onto your shoulder may depend on the mix of your shape and pattern, though it looks fine in these photos.

I've got a jacket incoming this week with two pockets slanted in this direction
View attachment 320530

Looking forward to hearing about that one.

Thanks for posting this, its nice to see some more photos of one of the SJC jackets.
I saw the other day that they are doing this jacket in a two-tone colour way at the moment.

That is probably one of the plusses of a jacket in this price-band; good option for something you might not wear as often, like a two-tone. I'd like to see one of these in a two-tone like Ton's(?) blue and white cafe racer.

 

[ton312]

Somewhat reminiscent of my excelled HH halfbelt, same chest pocket angle. Overall a nice design from SJC, with the exception of the sleeves, which IMHO look far too wide at the cuff. A nice false cuff or button cuff would've finished the sleeve a bit better.

 

[Metatron]

I have flat shoulder and I wear my jacket with slope shoulders, the answer is it depends on the leather and where the shoulder seam is (right on top of across your shoulder or slightly to the front) , your shoulder seam is right on top and slightly curved usually it will last like that even after years or even after being washed/ rained on. imagine your roof ridge on a tent if placed right on top it is pretty stable structure even when nothing underneath, but if you shift it to the front a little then the whole roof is sagging.

Thanks for the explanation about the architecture of leather jackets! The stiffness of leather affects the fit of a garment a bit differently than cloth-Actually the fit bothers me less now, and if I adjust it when I put it on, the slope is less pronounced. I am looking forward to it becoming even better as it breaks in.

I was wary of the back seam at first in the website photos, but seeing it clearly here, it is very nicely done. I think including the bottom horizontal panel, rather than having the seam run all the way to the hem, gives it a classier look.

I think the back seam phobia is a result of reverence for the A2? I thought about it and a back seam isn't an issue with blazers, so why should it bother me with leather jackets? But I agree with you, the bottom panel makes it more stylish.

Reissue 501s presumably? (I always found the cut of them was on my hips, but now I think about it it's a good decade or so since I last had a pair, may have changed

Funny you should ask, I did a bit of research on the history of the 501 and in fact the rise has not changed much over the years, surprisingly. it went up and down by an inch or so depending on the decade. But the fit of jeans does not mirror the cut of contemporary dress trousers of an era exactly-Dinerman showed me catalogue images from the 40s or 50s mentioning the 'low on the hips' cut of Levis. I should clarify we are talking about 'cowboy' style jeans, not denim workwear trousers. Of course, by today's standards they are what I would call 'mid rise', which is the context in which I mean it here, in other words the jacket will reach the waistband of a classic cut pair of trousers, but nothing lower than that!

Hide looks nice. Typical of goatskin in my experience is it relaxes, almost has the drape of broken-in denim. Grain will come out but it won't have that same wear off the surface and discolouration you get with some hides. For want of a better word, it will look "dressier" for much longer - a good thing in my book if you're going to wear it as much with slacks and a tie as jeans and a tshirt.

I know what you mean, I have a vintage G-1 and while it is thoroughly broken in, the surface of the goatskin is still uniform in colour.

How are you finding the lining temperature-wise? Are there storm-cuffs? The shell looks like it could be a great option for a warmer-weather leather, if the lining isn't too warm. Is the cotton sateen breathable? I did have an issue wearing a jacket with an artificial (poly) satin lining in the past - stuck to my skin very quickly when warm, which made me wary of shiny fabrics. I've not tried cotton sateen though.

No storm cuffs, and the flannel lining is lightweight-cotton, not wool. By UK standards a year round jacket depending on layering. It is a relatively lightweight jacket, I think under 2kg.

I'm sure it will relax a bit. Whether it falls right onto your shoulder may depend on the mix of your shape and pattern, though it looks fine in these photos.

Thanks! It is easy to be fussy about the fit of a new jacket, but these things happen when a garment is not tailor made, and in any case, as you say, looking at the pics you would hardly know-so I am looking forward to breaking it in.

Somewhat reminiscent of my excelled HH halfbelt, same chest pocket angle. Overall a nice design from SJC, with the exception of the sleeves, which IMHO look far too wide at the cuff. A nice false cuff or button cuff would've finished the sleeve a bit better.
View attachment 320806

Very similar pocket, could be the inspiration piece almost. Is your pocket also very tiny?? Though I like the look, with the counter intuitive angle is a bit inconvenient to access, unless I have missed the logic of the design. I suspect these originally would have been used for nothing more than a pack of cigarettes.

I tend to agree about the cuff design, it could have a separate panel to mirror the waistband panel, but it doesn't really bother me.

 

[ton312]

Very similar pocket, could be the inspiration piece almost. Is your pocket also very tiny??

Indeed it is. Barely get a book of matches in it!

 

[Edward]

I think the back seam phobia is a result of reverence for the A2? I thought about it and a back seam isn't an issue with blazers, so why should it bother me with leather jackets? But I agree with you, the bottom panel makes it more stylish.

I tend to agree - and the tailoring issue is on-point. Closing in on a decade and a half ago when I first joined this place, a single-piece back was seen as a real mark of quality - that and heavier hides. Of course that's not really the case, but as more seams allow smaller pieces of leather to be used and can therefore be more cost effective in use of materials, they came to be associated with cheaper jackets, a less desirable look. There have been big changes since with multipiece backs and lighter leathers (a lot down to their use by trusted brands like Aero and a whole host of Japanese brands), though with a simple, single seam it lingers a bit. Old habits die hard. It does allow for a better fit in the right design (hence its use in a tailored suit jacket or blazer); when Aero first launched the Board Racer with its simple, straight mid-back seam they did make clear they can make it with a one-piece back but the fit will be different - not as 'form fitting' - because of the angling of the panels. I thought it interesting that then - around 2014, from memory - they clearly felt they needed to point this out as the market might perceive it as "cheap" rather than design-led. Much has changed since then, of course.... Even my own prejudices: ten years ago I might have passed on the SJC jacket over the seam; now, it has an appeal.

Funny you should ask, I did a bit of research on the history of the 501 and in fact the rise has not changed much over the years, surprisingly. it went up and down by an inch or so depending on the decade. But the fit of jeans does not mirror the cut of contemporary dress trousers of an era exactly-Dinerman showed me catalogue images from the 40s or 50s mentioning the 'low on the hips' cut of Levis. I should clarify we are talking about 'cowboy' style jeans, not denim workwear trousers. Of course, by today's standards they are what I would call 'mid rise', which is the context in which I mean it here, in other words the jacket will reach the waistband of a classic cut pair of trousers, but nothing lower than that!

Oh, now that's interesting! [NOT sarcasm, for the avoidance of doubt!] I wonder what the design thinking was - was it purely to save money on what were meant to be rough clothes for hard and dirty manual labour? (Bearing in mind that a lower waistband not only saves material, but unlike a more tailored, fishtail back which would have been fairly common back when 501s were first introduced, is easier to cut as it avoids having to be tailored around the small of the back.) My Wranglers are 13mwz - still cut to the original 1947 pattern, but with a higher (natural waist) waistband. I wonder if they were out of step with other jeans at the time, then - or was the difference that the Wranglers were cut for comfort in the saddle?

Was the lower waistband part of why jeans were somewhat outré for a long time? Could be coincidence, of course, but it seems that mainstream acceptance and losing the 'hoodlums and labourers' impression would also tally with a lowering of waistbands more generally?

No storm cuffs, and the flannel lining is lightweight-cotton, not wool. By UK standards a year round jacket depending on layering. It is a relatively lightweight jacket, I think under 2kg.

Sounds a real potential. I have a few Harrington jackets I like to wear when it's too hot for leather, though the problem with those is the relatively substantial brushed-cotton liner can very quickly be too warm in Summer. This sounds good, though. Storm cuffs are nice when it's cooler, but for a warmer weather leather, this sort of 'open end sleeve' can be great for air circulation.

Is there an interior pocket? This used to be a deal-breaker for me. I would still spec one if an option, but my HWM was ordered from stock and, admittedly with significant use of its large chest pocket, I have not really missed its lack of an interior pocket.

In terms of the "unfinished" cuff end, I had the impression they were a slightly later thing - 50s? If that's not wrong, SJC do tend to favour an earlier look. I've seen a lot of plain ended sleeves in jackets from that period. As you say, though, it's really a cosmetic preference with the plain over the additional 'engineer cuff' look as on an Aero Highwayman. I suppose also from a design pov it's one less step in manufacture, which will also help to keep it to a price point overall. I can certainly see a lot of folks preferring the detail on the cuff, though I quite like the simplicity on this one - another point of difference to my other jackets (which would also help justify buying one... ).

Indeed it is. Barely get a book of matches in it!

Very much a period feature; I put it down to the design being from the days when people just didn't have a need to carry as much as we do now. Watch and wallet, not watch, wallet, carkeys, field telephone, travel card, credit cards, and on, and on... These chest pockets seem to me to be designed to accommodate an old-style cigarette pack. Smoking was much more common, don't forget: back in WW2 era Britain, 25-30% of women and just over half of all men smoked. The other thing that occurs to me is that the purpose of that zip pocket seems as much a decoration as anything breaking up a plain chest panel visually, an echo of the chest pocket on a suit coat, with the contrast tone of the zip a flourish evocative of a pocket square.

I'm leaning towards getting a jacket at some point that has a chest pocket with no zip so I can stow a pair of gloves or a bandana as needed without any chance of the zip catching on them. I think about this a lot more now, particularly as over the Plague Year I have fallen into the habit of never leaving the house without wearing a pair of cheap, unlined, perforated leather gloves I picked up for that purpose. I might well carry on wearing gloves year-round once I start gong back to "normal".