Size range for vintages to increase choices?

[T Rick]

I'm pretty much a size 7 1/8 AFAIK. A few in size 7 at a local hatter seemed to fit.

Having a look at the vintage market, it occurred to me that there is a possibility I may (or may not) be able to increase my available choices by expanding the size range I look for slightly.

Thinking, if I go with a 7 1/4, could I get a decent fit by padding the band? And what of a 7, if it's a bit too snug, can I reliably expect to stretch it to fit? Thinking in terms of vintages, Open Roads, Whippets and others. Your thoughts?

 

[Rick Blaine]

No question!

Oh yeah, I often buy 7 1/4s f/ my 7 3/8 bean & stretch 'em up. Quite doable & cheaper goin' from 7s up rather than 7 1/4 down as larger vintage lids attract larger sales prices.

 

[Sam Craig]

When your head's my size ... a 7 3/8 fits so good, I often buy 7 1/2 ... you don't have to worry too often about finding old hats that are too big, but it can happen, and I happened onto a good answer.
I nabbed a couple of thin scraps of poly fleece when by wife was making blankies for the grandkids. They work great and mold to the inside of the hat without putting stress on the old leather sweatband.

I've also been known to stretch out a size or three when the hat deal is good enough

Sam

 

[gtdean48]

Because vintage selection is limited in larger sizes like my 7 5/8 size, I look at 7 1/2 all the way to 7 3/4. Gotta stretch some, pad some, some are just right. Sounds like a weird Goldilock & the 3 Fedoras story....

 

[rlk]

The choices for size 7 in vintage hats are probably the greatest of any size and less expensive than all the larger ones. Think of Garrett's collection now being sold off. I must see 10x the number of interesting 7's than 7-1/4.

 

[T Rick]

Sounds great, many more options than I thought! So now I wonder, how far can I stretch them? I see some real bargains in 6 7/8, dare I try them? (Again, some 7's in the Hatter's store did fit, but I mostly felt good with 7 1/8. Then again, my "Medium" in a Filson tin cloth Packer fits front and back, but the sides have a little room- though the Hatter clerks were sure I'm not a long oval- maybe I could go 6 7/8 if it's at least a long oval?).

 

[mayserwegener]

I think one size is ok but after that it gets problematic. I would do some experimenting with a low cost vintage. Also applying the stretcher for a long while (months) produces the best results (at least in my cases).

 

[randooch]

Keep in mind, too, that some vintage hats have shrunk over the years, so a 7 1/4 might feel perfect.

 

[T Rick]

Keep in mind, too, that some vintage hats have shrunk over the years, so a 7 1/4 might feel perfect.

Good point, I suppose they can vary from style to style and even from hat to hat. I guess I'll just have to try my luck on a few near my size and see how it goes.

 

[fluteplayer07]

I have an aversion to stretching myself. To take Dinerman's (I think it's his) words, because I agree with him exactly, it's a shame that hats surviving for 70, 80, or over 90 years can be kept without 'human intervention', and now be subject to actions such as stretching that distorts their character. This has been debated extensively in the past, and I support the preservation of hats; that our role as wearers and collectors is to be the caretaker of a hat, not an owner. We wear them and show them off, while still protecting them and fostering general acceptance of their wearing to 'civilians', so to speak.

I believe this for the rare or pristine ones, at least. The hats that are in poor condition, I don't mind replacing a ripped sweatband in; or a mangled liner; or stretching a stained, holey, 6 7/8 to a 7. But I think we should pay the rare ones a bit more respect.

Stuffing seems more preservation-minded to me, because the action can be un-done, as opposed to stretching. Unfortunately, this means you need to find an even rarer, larger, and more expensive hat than what you actually wear. So I suppose there is no definitive answer to this problem, other than our own opinions on what we think is right. Just my $0.02.

Cheers!

 

[avedwards]

Fluteplayer, I couldn't agree more personally. If I buy the battered top hat I've currently got my eye on I'd almost feel like I was acting charitably if I had it restored because I'm extending it's lifetime.

My stance on suits is slightly different though. I have no problem taking things like legs or sleeves in or out when neccessary because I know it's a reversible process.

 

[fluteplayer07]

Right, restoring is good, altering is bad. (For hats)

Suits, I agree with you. They are made to be adjusted, and a skilled tailor can work miracles. I had the ripped lining in the suit I'm wearing in my avatar completely stripped and replaced. It was just beyond repair.

Glad to see you around!

 

[Canadian Cowboy]

Very well Said,Fluteplayer, There are only so many Mint or near Mint hats left once there gone there gone.
CC

 

[dmario21]

I just bought a Stetson 25 Open Road that's in pretty good, though not mint, condition. It's 7 1/8, but fits a bit more snug than I'd expect (shrinkage?). Would they still be able to use the original sweat band if I have it stretched a 1/16 or an 1/8 of an inch? From what I've seen on the site, it's probably at least an early 50s hat, so I want to keep it as original as possible.

 

[gtdean48]

I just bought a Stetson 25 Open Road that's in pretty good, though not mint, condition. It's 7 1/8, but fits a bit more snug than I'd expect (shrinkage?). Would they still be able to use the original sweat band if I have it stretched a 1/16 or an 1/8 of an inch? From what I've seen on the site, it's probably at least an early 50s hat, so I want to keep it as original as possible.

Depends on how good of shape the sweatband is in. Most vintage hats are not original size due to contraction of the sweatband. Leather draws at it looses oils. I've had good luck using Lexol leather conditioner & a hat stretcher to return vintage hats to their original size. If the sweat is too dry, they have to be replaced. Good luck & welcome.

 

[scooter]

As it regards the OP's original question, you just gotta take your chances. EVERY hat is different; for example, last week I got a Cervo in 7 5/8 and it fits perfectly, I also received an old Davis hat in 7 5/8, and it feels like I have a bucket on my head. (Nice hat, but too big for me.) Then again, I received a 7 1/2 Stetson and a 7 1/2 Dobbs, that each fit differently. The only way I know to possibly avoid this, is to ask the seller for front to back and side to side measurements, and then use an ellipse calculator.

Hope this helps.

 

[m0nk]

If you get a vintage hat and end up not being able to wear it, whether it's too tight and you don't want to stretch, or it's too loose and you don't want to pad it enough to fit, there's always a market here on the FL that you can sell it off and try with another. I'm a size 7 typically, and I have a Stetson 7 1/8 that looks great and fits right with adequate padding, and I have a 6 7/8 Dobbs that fits great, though I might have the sweat replaced because it's fairly hard and can be uncomfortable at times. I also have another 6 7/8 Dobbs that I'll likely be posting in the Classifieds since it's just too tight, and I'd rather sell it and use the money to try again with a different hat.

Then there is always custom, where you can get it to a measured size specific to your head... several hatters make hats in beaver or a vintage-weight felt that might give the feel of a nice vintage hat.

 

[danofarlington]

I've resolved to buy the 7 1/8 size stated, vintage or not. My record of vintage hats is a beautiful brown Borsalino at 7 1/4, which is a true 7 1/4 and therefore too big, had to pad it; another nice Borsalino 7 1/8 (or Ponti size 5), true to size; and a sort of recent Open Road at 7 1/8, which is tight, wish I had the size up; a MacLachlan, true to size; a fine old Stetson Panama at 7 1/2, which my hatmaker somehow made to fit me well. That's my whole inventory. But the odds seem to run, true to size, with no firm bias that vintage hats shrink. So I'm not buying vintage hats hoping they will be a different size than the stated one, although it happens.

Oh, I forgot my really old-looking Stetson, pencil curl, black hillbilly hat from the Ozarks, supposedly, which is 7 1/8 and just a little snug but it does fit, not like the above-mentioned Open Road that had to be stretched. So even my oldest-looking vintage hat ran pretty true to size.