Single breasted peak lapel

[jamespowers]

What state (condition) you talking? I have one about that size that was very badly moth eaten that i culled the buttons from and took apart to learn the tailoring details . . . It's still hanging around 9in bits) if ye're intereseted/

bk

9 inch bits?! Well, maybe. I suppose the tailor could do me up one from what is left if worse came to worse.

Regards,

J

 

[Baron Kurtz]

nope (in bits) 9 is where the shift key failed on my attempt to open parenthesis. Now that i think of it, though the chest and body of the suit were large, the shoulders and inseam were very shirt . . .

bk

 

[Fletch]

Ok, so we have proved that there were people over a size 38 back then but what happened the suit on the guy third from the left?

That's Mike Doty, 250 lb lead sax player and "shoutin'" singer who used to lead the band in jazz spirituals as a glee club. I dunno about the suit, but I read in an old down beat that Mike had to open at the Rainbow Room with Ray Noble and couldn't find a white dinner jacket in all of New York that would fit him.

Years later Mike became an oboe and double reed specialist in the pit ork at Radio City. He retired to his native Minnesota and died about 1985.

I imagine "Long" John Langsford had similar problems with clothes - he was 6'11".

 

[jamespowers]

That's Mike Doty, 250 lb lead sax player and "shoutin'" singer who used to lead the band in jazz spirituals as a glee club. I dunno about the suit, but I read in an old down beat that Mike had to open at the Rainbow Room with Ray Noble and couldn't find a white dinner jacket in all of New York that would fit him.

Years later Mike became an oboe and double reed specialist in the pit ork at Radio City. He retired to his native Minnesota and died about 1985.

I imagine "Long" John Langsford had similar problems with clothes - he was 6'11".

Darn. I am too late for the Doty estate sale. :eusa_doh: I could have had it cut down a bit. Better too big than too small.

Regards,

J

 

[Fletch]

Work in progress

Please forgive the rumples and shy sleeves.
Here I am wearing the 1950 SB peak in a light gray woven plaid.
I want you gents' learned opinion as to whether the skirt is too short on me.

 

[Orgetorix]

Please forgive the rumples and shy sleeves.
Here I am wearing the 1950 SB peak in a light gray woven plaid.
I want you gents' learned opinion as to whether the skirt is too short on me.

It's on the short side, to be sure, but I like it. Then again, I'm more tolerant of short coats than some here. As long as it isn't exposing half your backside or more, I'd think it's fine.

 

[Jovan]

 

[Tomasso]

Nice jacket............

I want you gents' learned opinion as to whether the skirt is too short on me.

...........but too short. I think that even when thrifting or sale shopping you have to maintain the basic standards of proper fit. IMO, shoulders and length are nonnegotiable, most other issues can be tailored away.

 

[Jovan]

This was posted at another point on FL. Liked it so much, I saved it.

 

[Orgetorix]

Why such large pocket flaps on an otherwise skinny suit? And overlapping flaps? Looks goofy, in my opinion.

 

[Jovan]

His personal sense of aesthetics.

 

[Fletch]

...........but too short. I think that even when thrifting or sale shopping you have to maintain the basic standards of proper fit.

Ah. Still usable as a copy template though, I think. I'd just ask for 1 1/2" or so more skirt, and a lower bottom button and hole. And a vest (this has none).

 

[Tomasso]

Ah. Still usable as a copy template though, I think. I'd just ask for 1 1/2" or so more skirt, and a lower bottom button and hole.

Actually, it may not be quite that simple. Jacket length can affect pocket placement as well.

 

[Fletch]

OK, and after the pockets, what?

I have the strange feeling you want to talk me out of this because you think it'll all end in tears...

 

[Jovan]

The pockets would look fine even with about 2" tacked on.

 

[herringbonekid]

eulogy to an orphaned jacket.

this is perhaps the most beautifully tailored jacket i have. it's an english peaked lapel from about 1937-1944 (difficult to be more precise with english clothing of this period). it's a medium-heavy dark blue flannel with pinstripes in ochre/light blue in alternating rows of 1 and 5. you really have to feel it to appreciate it. the way the padded chest thins out to give the classic nipped waist is like sculpture. this would have been a 'holy grail' of english suits if only it WAS a suit. the trousers are long gone. oddly it has no buttons on the cuffs and no cuff opening/placket. i've never seen that before. it was made at a tailors in Tooting, London but there is no owner's name or date on the label. perhaps the owner never picked it up ?

 

[Jovan]

Very nice. That type of jacket especially is begging for you to leave the top button undone, though.

 

[herringbonekid]

thanks, but i disagree wholeheartedly regarding the buttoning Jovan. (let's not get into buttoning debates).

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Nice one, hbk.

very much like the Eden/Hoare jacket i've been a-hunting for for some time. I 'arve one on the way that hopefully will slake my desires.

bk

sorry, this will probably promote a buttoning debate.

 

[herringbonekid]

sorry, this will probably promote a buttoning debate.

i'm not getting involved.

similar, but the peaks on mine aren't quite so up-angled. also, mine looks a bit sturdier... i really can't emphasise enough what a feat of engineering the jacket is. absolutely solid.


p.s. Baron, have you ever seen a suit jacket without cuff buttons ??