Simmons Bilt

[Jin431]

View attachment 339141 My Roadster in brown Horween Milan Horsehide. Not the best picture and the jacket had been crumpled up in my car immediately beforehand but you get the idea. Its had a few weeks of wear and breaks in a lot quicker than CXL slightly softer drape. It's got aspects of all my favourite hides while being unique in itself. The jacket fit was 100%, a bit less 'boxy' than my old Highwayman jacket, its a true 42 fit from what I can see, I'm a 40/42 chest, basically a 41 and the jacket has enough room to layer a light sweater under but generally wear it with a denim shirt. I had a few customisations done - a larger gauge main zip, a slight drop tail for riding (and aesthetics - it just looks better) and a mix of satin in the sleeves and gabardine in the body. Overall it feels like Horween have produced a hide for people looking for a veg-tan, easier to wear version of CXL.

Beautiful color, the red tones are so nice. It doesn't look as matte compared to the black milan.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

@Corsair42 the leather does look pretty nice and I quite like the shade of red/brown that it is.

 

[nickv]

View attachment 339141 My Roadster in brown Horween Milan Horsehide. Not the best picture and the jacket had been crumpled up in my car immediately beforehand but you get the idea. Its had a few weeks of wear and breaks in a lot quicker than CXL slightly softer drape. It's got aspects of all my favourite hides while being unique in itself. The jacket fit was 100%, a bit less 'boxy' than my old Highwayman jacket, its a true 42 fit from what I can see, I'm a 40/42 chest, basically a 41 and the jacket has enough room to layer a light sweater under but generally wear it with a denim shirt. I had a few customisations done - a larger gauge main zip, a slight drop tail for riding (and aesthetics - it just looks better) and a mix of satin in the sleeves and gabardine in the body. Overall it feels like Horween have produced a hide for people looking for a veg-tan, easier to wear version of CXL.

I bought my Simmons Bilt Roadster about 2 yrs ago. They sent me out some leather samples as i requested as it was my first foray into buying a "real leather jacket". I decided on a sample which they were just intoducing back then and they were caliing it "SB Italian Horse Hide", which Deb mentioned was chrome tanned. Looking at your jacket photo close up comparing to mine particularly the grain structure above the top right chest area, looks pretty similar.

 

[nattevagten]

SB Detroit in CXL steerhide. Sized down one size to 36. Couldn't be any happier with the result. The jacket is incredibly heavy (the parcel was marked as 3 kg) and fits like a glove, nice and sharp. Very comfortable even as new. Pretty much the perfect cross zip for me.

The jacket might seem long due to the angle, but it's actually just 24.5".

 

[Canuck Panda]

^^^Nice!
They have magical touch with thick leather there. Great jacket.

 

[handymike]

That's a good looking collar on that one.

 

[Moostyle]

All drama aside and whether that concerns you or not is up to each person. As for the jackets, I've owned 4 various SB models. All excellent materials and construction. My only gripe is with some of the finer details / nuances such as cuff / collar / pocket flap shape, side belt directions etc. IMO, these areas could use some sharpening. However, if youre sticking with a fairly basic style then it shouldnt be an issue. They will also do much more customizing than any other maker.

I have to agree with this. I bought a Simmons Bilt Cafe Racer leather jacket yesterday and didn't have any clue about the brand before I later googled, after almost immediately purchasing it when I tried it on. What I did first notice when I saw and then tried on that jacket is that:

1) The fit was so perfect it was like it had been custom made for me. I'm not kidding, it is form-fitting yet with room for a layer and a bit of muscle growth.

2) The leather is a BEAUTIFUL coloured tobacco brown premium Japanese horsehide, substantial in weight yet soft and supple and it began to mould to my body right out of the store.

3) It seems really well made and constructed.

I care about perceived ethics to as realistic a degree as it is possible within todays cut-throat retail and supply chain environment, but it is my first leather jacket and I give next to zero craps about the history between popular leather brands and even if I had known the history that would not have stopped me buying a jacket of this fit and quality. Sometimes you just know, and when I saw and tried on that jacket I knew.

I would be more than willing to try another Simmons Bilt jacket in future, likely the Oakland or Detroit.

 

[Moostyle]

Just read a very interesting post that for me suggests that there has been some unfair treatment directed at Alexander Leathers / Simmons Billt as a whole as a result of the actions of one employee: https://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/i...pvvd8tmba34lu5&topic=4627.msg408049#msg408049

In recent weeks there has been a judgement in the court case involving Aero Leather Company and the charges made against William Lauder. The trial verdict was that William Lauder was found guilty of theft from Aero Leather.

The judgement has been used by some people to promulgate persistent mistruths on various social media and this has involved malicious and slanderous remarks directed at Alexander Leathers and its employees. In view of these malicious and vexatious acts we felt the need to point out some facts to both our customers and associates and issue the following statement.

The actions of certain people have, since the foundation of Alexander Leathers in 2012, been both tedious and frustrating. However, we have “turned the other cheek” in the knowledge that these distasteful and vile attacks on both our employees and our product offering were patently false and untrue. We had assumed the basis for these attempts to tarnish our name was in respect of the accusations of embezzlement against one of our employees by his former employer, Aero Leathers. We had also presumed once this had been through the courts and a verdict was concluded we could all go about our business in the spirit of fair competition.

However, it has been brought to our attention there are those who are taking the outcome of the trial as an opportunity to try and further tarnish the reputation of Alexander Leathers and ultimately close down our business. They have used a distortion of the key facts to impugn the integrity of Alexander Leathers and its employees and shareholders.

The key facts are:

William Lauder was an employee of Aero Leathers until 2012
The embezzlement charges of which William Lauder was accused ALL relate to his time as an employee of Aero Leathers
Alexander Leathers has NOT been involved in any way in the recent court case and attempts to link the criminal accusations against William Lauder are simply a distortion of the truth.

We have also had contact from our customers informing us that Aero Leathers had sent direct emails to them in regard to the trial outcome and either explicitly or by implication stating that Alexander Leathers was somehow involved in the alleged criminality.

William Lauder was engaged as an employee of Alexander Leather Company Ltd after his employment with Aero terminated in 2012. His employment with Alexander relates to operational and machine duties and he was never employed in any management capacity or given any directorship or shareholding in Alexander Leathers.

We were aware of the assertions and accusations made against William Lauder by his former employer. We did not deem this as an issue for our company as it appeared to be a dispute between former directors, shareholders and colleagues at Aero Leather. It was not our concern as to how William Lauder and his fellow directors ran their company and any internal agreements they may or may not have had between them. Our concern was and is that all our employees always behave in an honest and truthful manner whilst in our employment.

William Lauder is currently on garden leave and will remain on garden leave pending the outcome of the sentencing on 29 May at which point a review will take place.

We give all our customers, suppliers, agents and our friends in the clothing community a copper-bottomed assurance that we are a company of integrity, honesty and transparency.

We hope there can be an end to all this hostility generated by some of our competitors and their fellow-travelers. The encouraging thing for us is that our presence in the market place and the products we produce pose such a threat to some that fair competition and leaving the customer to choose where they buy is an option that certain parties wish to undermine and destroy.

However, we neither have the time or inclination to engage in any public forum nor dimly lit basement slanging match with these vindictive parties as we know that the truth will come out eventually and their actions will ultimately rebound on them.

Our legal team have been made aware of the situation. They have been instructed to act if any further slanderous or blatant anti-competitive accusations or actions are made against this company.

Other than that, we’ll let our jackets do the talking and you can rest assured that this company will build on its strong foundations to deliver even better products and the levels of service which you have come to expect from us.

Alexander Leather Company Ltd

 

[nattevagten]

I have to agree with this. I bought a Simmons Bilt Cafe Racer leather jacket yesterday and didn't have any clue about the brand before I later googled, after almost immediately purchasing it when I tried it on. What I did first notice when I saw and then tried on that jacket is that:

1) The fit was so perfect it was like it had been custom made for me. I'm not kidding, it is form-fitting yet with room for a layer and a bit of muscle growth.

2) The leather is a BEAUTIFUL coloured tobacco brown premium Japanese horsehide, substantial in weight yet soft and supple and it began to mould to my body right out of the store.

3) It seems really well made and constructed.

I care about perceived ethics to as realistic a degree as it is possible within todays cut-throat retail and supply chain environment, but it is my first leather jacket and I give next to zero craps about the history between popular leather brands and even if I had known the history that would not have stopped me buying a jacket of this fit and quality. Sometimes you just know, and when I saw and tried on that jacket I knew.

I would be more than willing to try another Simmons Bilt jacket in future, likely the Oakland or Detroit.

Looking good. SB is among the absolute best, no doubt.

Considering getting a CR or BR-style jacket (from SB) myself, so perhaps you could help me a little.

Does that cafe racer have an aggressive waist taper like the Aero version?
Did you order it in your true size?
How are the sleeves, more on the 'relaxed'/roomier side, it seems?

 

[born113]

Just read a very interesting post that for me shows that there has been some unfair treatment directed at Alexander Leathers / Simmons Billt as a whole as a result of the actions of one employee

I just read. Thanks for the link.
AL/SB wrote a good story. In order to understand that this is a fairy tale, you need to have only some life experience.

 

[red devil]

SB has one of the best quality to ratio I can think of, congrats @Moostyle !

You should look at their Elk offering if still available, it would make a fantastic Oakland

 

[Leadfoot]

You should look at their Elk offering if still available, it would make a fantastic Oakland

FYI, I inquired about that Elk last month. Debs reply:

The Nordic elk in black is now out of stock and will not be replaced, we have the brown left in stock right now and are in the process of ordering Deer skin to replace the Elk both in black and brown.

 

[red devil]

FYI, I inquired about that Elk last month. Debs reply:

The Nordic elk in black is now out of stock and will not be replaced, we have the brown left in stock right now and are in the process of ordering Deer skin to replace the Elk both in black and brown.

I was afraid it wouldn't last, it is a great hide

 

[Canuck Panda]

@Moostyle That's great fit for first SB jacket. It took me a few tries to understand how their sizing works. And that leather looks like Shinki mid brown to me. Just saying.

As for their history, well... We all came from somewhere, right? Even the great Edison has been accused of taking things that weren't his.

Here is my brown elg SB V2 with a custom dress collar (Roadster I believe) instead of the round one. It ages well with another brown tone underneath. SB was the only maker I found to provide this type of leather.

I like the SBV2 pattern, its short and tapered, so it was logical that I have it in different leather options:
Horween Lux (Very thick, very soft)

Clayton Horsehide (A bit too stiff for my taste)

I didn't have luck with their Xzip (Daytona). Could be my fault. But I've found them to have straight torso no taper and rather long, though that could be just my incorrect specs. These were my first SB's. And I am getting them tapered (altered), soon.
Horween Lux again. Really an underrated leather.

There was a case here where a member had similar negative experience with SB Xzip. So best to check on all the dimensions, P2P, waist, hem. Some of the SB patterns have straight torso to almost bell out at the bottom. Like the Montana (Aero Barnstormer copy, but no taper), and their old GT (Belstaff copy, no taper).

I agree with what RedDevil said about SB. They offer the most interesting leathers at a reasonable price. Just watch out for pattern dimensions. Simply ask for the waist and hem and length dims will solve this problem which I didn't do.

None of my SB jackets (purchased started 3 years ago) resemble any of my Aeros. I wish they were then I wouldn't have to guess on sizing, but they are not the same. SB has slimmer straighter sleeves and higher armholes and straighter body, more Thedi less Aero in terms of fits.

 

[Moostyle]

Looking good. SB is among the absolute best, no doubt.

Considering getting a CR or BR-style jacket (from SB) myself, so perhaps you could help me a little.

Does that cafe racer have an aggressive waist taper like the Aero version?
Did you order it in your true size?
How are the sleeves, more on the 'relaxed'/roomier side, it seems?

Hi. I just picked a 38 off of the rack, nothing was ordered. The jacket is form-fitting, but with a little extra room for an inch or two of chest and arm growth, which is exactly what I wanted as I will be putting on a couple of KG of muscle in my chest and arm in the next months so I will grow a little into this jacket and fill it out. The arms are also the perfect length for me, stopping just where my hand start to widen. What I especially love is that its also not too short at the waist, as I really do not like the super short "cropped length" style that rises over your belt. Thanks to the clever design of the rear arm "joints", I can move my arms every direction with no pulling or restrictions and the armholes are the perfect height under my armpits. it is super comfortable in all of the right places and I honestly would not have hoped to get a fit this good if I had sent off my measurements, it is exactly what I would have requested.

Plus this is not thin leather that drapes over you like thin lambskin cafe racers, it is mid-weight 1.2-1.3mm Japanese horsehide, way heavier than any fashion crap that I have ever bought before and overall feels very substantial. While it's still more soft and supple than the other horsehide jackets I tried (the Addict AD-01 was as stiff as a board, it was crazy), Its obviously still not broken in and will not be for a while, so it is not bending or hanging in all of the right ways. I plan to wear it as much as possible while working from home to speed up the break-in process.

The taper is apparent in the silhouette but definitely not 'super aggressive and can be adjusted with the waist belt to be slimmer. I had a few people assess the fit from the front and back and they all agreed the jacket is "just right", not too tight and not too loose, with a noticeable yet subtle V cut from the shoulders down.

This will be my "8 months of the year jacket" in Spring, Autumn and Winter and then left to rest in Summer. As you can tell I am overjoyed with it, it was love at first sight and when I tried it on I just had to buy it right away. I can't wait to see how it ages.

 

[Hh121]

@Moostyle That's great fit for first SB jacket. It took me a few tries to understand how their sizing works. And that leather looks like Shinki mid brown to me. Just saying.

As for their history, well... We all came from somewhere, right? Even the great Edison has been accused of taking things that weren't his.

Here is my brown elg SB V2 with a custom dress collar (Roadster I believe) instead of the round one. It ages well with another brown tone underneath. SB was the only maker I found to provide this type of leather.
View attachment 403821

I like the SBV2 pattern, its short and tapered, so it was logical that I have it in different leather options:
Horween Lux (Very thick, very soft)
View attachment 403823
Clayton Horsehide (A bit too stiff for my taste)
View attachment 403825

I didn't have luck with their Xzip (Daytona). Could be my fault. But I've found them to have straight torso no taper and rather long, though that could be just my incorrect specs. These were my first SB's. And I am getting them tapered (altered), soon.
Horween Lux again. Really an underrated leather.
View attachment 403826

View attachment 403827

There was a case here where a member had similar negative experience with SB Xzip. So best to check on all the dimensions, P2P, waist, hem. Some of the SB patterns have straight torso to almost bell out at the bottom. Like the Montana (Aero Barnstormer copy, but no taper), and their old GT (Belstaff copy, no taper).

View attachment 403828
View attachment 403829

I agree with what RedDevil said about SB. They offer the most interesting leathers at a reasonable price. Just watch out for pattern dimensions. Simply ask for the waist and hem and length dims will solve this problem which I didn't do.

None of my SB jackets (purchased started 3 years ago) resemble any of my Aeros. I wish they were then I wouldn't have to guess on sizing, but they are not the same. SB has slimmer straighter sleeves and higher armholes and straighter body, more Thedi less Aero in terms of fits.

Beautiful collection, what's the weight of your SB elk jacket?

 

[Canuck Panda]

Beautiful collection, what's the weight of your SB elk jacket?

It's not heavy, just over 5 lbs. But it feels very thick. The horsehide (Horween Lux) feels a bit thinner but is actually a pound heavier on the scale. The Elk absorb water faster than the horsehide though, yet still doesn't feel too cold. Very interesting hide.

 

[Finn Vigorous]

It's not heavy, just over 5 lbs. But it feels very thick. The horsehide (Horween Lux) feels a bit thinner but is actually a pound heavier on the scale. The Elk absorb water faster than the horsehide though, yet still doesn't feel too cold. Very interesting hide.

The elk looks great! Any idea of the tannery?

 

[Moostyle]

That's great fit for first SB jacket. It took me a few tries to understand how their sizing works. And that leather looks like Shinki mid brown to me. Just saying.

View attachment 403823

Thanks Canuck I really appreciate your detailed posts on this forum and the photos you provide it is super helpful. I suspect the leather is Shinki too although it doesn't specifically say so. It is a lovely leather though with a very subtle aroma and like I said quite soft and supple, all things considered. I wonder if its tea core or not,

I paid £960 which in my country, when taxes and shipping are considered, equals around a £120 premium over ordering from SB direct. I am completely fine with that and happy to support them, as the store I bought from is super cool and has a huge range of stuff and they said any problems or questions to come see them any time. I will be a customer there in future from now on I think.

I didn't have luck with their Xzip (Daytona). Could be my fault. But I've found them to have straight torso no taper and rather long, though that could be just my incorrect specs. These were my first SB's. And I am getting them tapered (altered), soon.

View attachment 403827

I would love a cross zip at some point and the best design I have seen so far are these Vanson Daredevil and Gamblers.

 

[Canuck Panda]

The elk looks great! Any idea of the tannery?

I think it’s Kokolan, the family run business that only does Elk leather. There’s info in the LW thread where other members custom ordered a thicker and cleaner batch for their jackets.

Thanks Canuck I really appreciate your detailed posts on this forum and the photos you provide it is super helpful. I suspect the leather is Shinki too although it doesn't specifically say so. It is a lovely leather though with a very subtle aroma and like I said quite soft and supple, all things considered. I wonder if its tea core or not,

I paid £960 which in my country, when taxes and shipping are considered, equals around a £120 premium over ordering from SB direct. I am completely fine with that and happy to support them, as the store I bought from is super cool and has a huge range of stuff and they said any problems or questions to come see them any time. I will be a customer there in future from now on I think.


I would love a cross zip at some point and the best design I have seen so far are these Vanson Daredevil and Gamblers.

Your SB jacket fits well so it was worth it. I would buy jackets from local retail shops whenever possible. Even it cost a bit more, the fact I can try them on is worth it. Biggest online problem is sizing. And if it doesn’t work out, the shipping/exchange adds up.

Vanson makes great jackets. They run 10 to 15% off sales quite often. The new comp weight isn’t bad. It’s softer and wearable from day one. (I think) it’s still the same “old comp weight” underneath, I just need a few more soaks to get rid of the new waterproofing coating. Calling Vanson will get better results than emails in my experience.