Show us your vintage patterns!

[Lauren]

One more, wouldn't fit in post above. Forgot to post for a while

 

[Sunny]

One more, wouldn't fit in post above. Forgot to post for a while

Goodness, aren't you amazing! And THIS one is in MY SIZE (I just had a headache sizing up a size 16 skirt).

 

[Miss Sis]

Nice patterns. I have shoes that are extremely similar to these ones. They just don't tie round the ankle.

Am I sad to notice these sorts of things from a pattern??? I think I just answered my own question! lol

 

[Vanessa]

Nice patterns. I have shoes that are extremely similar to these ones. They just don't tie round the ankle.

Am I sad to notice these sorts of things from a pattern??? I think I just answered my own question! lol

It's only sad if you buy the pattern because you like the illustration of the shoes - which I've done.

 

[Vintage Betty]

fftopic:

Ladies, I am lurking and gleefully checking out your vintage patterns, eagerly anticipating a day when I can sew.

As a novice sewer, is it possible to alter patterns for clothing which are not in my size successfully? In terms of measurements, how far would you recommend I stray if I see a pattern I like?

If I actually get any good at this after some time shakeshead what size difference do you stay within when purchasing patterns?

For instance, if I have a 38" bust, is it possible to purchase patterns with a 32" bust and successfully alter them?

I see most people have a variety of sizes....

(slinks back into vintage pattern lurk mode)

 

[Lady Day]

I do that all the time

There is a science to grading, and the more ladies I meet who sew, the more tips I pick up from them.

But in personal experience, I find a lot of trial and error: Moving over pleats and button holes, increasing necklines, Adding arm hole width, etc. It can get a bit cumbersome, and Ive gotten lazy and just started altering patterns that are no more than 4-6" in size difference to me, generally thats a safe zone so you dont have to worry too much about shoulder fit and top bust and back fit.

I say go for it, do a mock up, and when you get one that fits good, trace it out and there is your new pattern!

Go for it VB!

LD

 

[Lauren]

Grading is all math. I don't usually grade things up or down more than three sizes simply because it's much more difficult to retain the original shape. Generally when I do grading it will take 1/2 to 1 hour, and, as Lady Day says, you have to make a muslin mock up in after you're done and in between grading and creating the finished garment. One size is not that big of a deal and I can do it by "eye" now, but grading is done based on a grid system. You need to know all your measurements (both bust, waist, hips on one side and length of waist, length of sleeve, waist to: knee, ankle, floor, etc), and to do it correctly to your specific size you need to know lots of measurements if you want to make it made-to-measure. There are cheater ways to do it, but usually I trace out my patterns and use a cut and slash method on the length and width to expand it where it needs it, since not all areas of the body expand the same- like blowing something up or down on a copy machine. It can get you started, but its not how the body grows. Here's an online article from Threads that can explain it much better than I can. In actual clothing construction, unfortunately, there's very little "art" in terms of the right-brained creativity. It's all in the design (choice of fabrics, trims, or actual draping or pattern design) that sewing is fun for me. The logic part is exciting when I "get" it and tedious the other 75% of the time, which is rules, technique, and logic. The more you get it, the easier it gets. Learning basics from the beginning is really essential to becoming an accomplished seamstress. Hands on classes are the best way to start, and if you really want to get into it lots of community colleges offer classes on pattern design and draping, which only makes your sewing and technique better. I'd say that probably, for most at home seamstresses, it's best to buy either your size or one size off. Otherwise you get a pile of "I'll grade it some-day" patterns.

 

[Vanessa]

Otherwise you get a pile of "I'll grade it some-day" patterns.

We have none of those.

But seriously - I once graded up a pattern from a 40" bust to a 56" bust and it was not fun. Do-able, but not fun. I spent I don't know how long doing these complex equations to make everything fit right and yeah - I second the "if you can get it in your size - do it!"

 

[Lauren]

HA! Yeah. A big-ol'-pile. But I keep telling myself they're for dresses to repro to sell, too. Makes it easier :eusa_doh:

 

[MissAmelina]

HA! Yeah. A big-ol'-pile. But I keep telling myself they're for dresses to repro to sell, too. Makes it easier :eusa_doh:

Whatever helps you sleep at night, dear. hehe. Just kidding---I have seen some of your lovely clothes for sale online. I think that is a *great* idea--that way you can still make up the dress and feed the creative fire.

I am trying really hard to only buy patterns in my size....but it always seems like the *cutest* patterns (or the vast majority) have a 30-32 inch bust! UGH! That's a 8-9 inch difference! And math is hard.....

Did they originally not make as many copies of the patterns in larger sizes?
I am beginning to wonder.....But observing the increasing mass of my pattern pile, I don't seem to be having *that* much difficulty finding them.....

 

[Lady Day]

Did they originally not make as many copies of the patterns in larger sizes?
I am beginning to wonder.....

Naw, they made them. Like with Lane Bryant, a lot of those items were mail order. A lot of that stuff just got used up. What did not is what we see on eBay.

Not always the luck of the draw if youre over 44" bust

LD

 

[MissAmelina]

Naw, they made them. Like with Lane Bryant, a lot of those items were mail order. A lot of that stuff just got used up. What did not is what we see on eBay.

Not always the luck of the draw if youre over 44" bust

LD

Well, that's actually reassuring. That means that not everybody was itty bitty titty, as I had presumed. Am I allowed to write that??

 

[Lauren]

Totally agree. There were all sizes- some were harder to find than others. Most ones that I see turn up are in the 14-18 size range. I've made stuff for teeny tiny gals (below size 14) and plus size gals and I can say that no matter what size you are, it can be a challenge! I ditto the mail-order patterns- they often turn up in larger sizes. I think a while back woodlandfarmsantiques.com had quite a few in the 40+ bust range.

And thanks so much, MissAmelia .

 

[ShoreRoadLady]

On the grading, Lauren nailed it. The tricky thing with grading isn't the actual process - that's fairly simple, especially if you have a book to guide you. It's the measurements and the math. You've got to know not just bust-waist-hip, but all the secondary measurements as well, and figure how to spread the added inches out amongst the pattern pieces. A book can give you a good general guide, but vintage patterns aren't always straightforward, and your own measurements can change things. For instance, if you're narrow shouldered like me, you'd probably have to "hold" the shoulder width grade at some point (meaning, you leave that measurement alone while you add width to the rest of the bodice). The general guidelines wouldn't fit, and you'd get the fun experience of figuring out just what would.

Nutshell: If math is your strong suit, you'll be better off than, say, me. Either way, best to start out with something in your size.

 

[kamikat]

The thing with grading is that you have to know and be honest with your own body. You have to know where you need stuff bigger and where things can stay the same. Most of the patterns in my collection are for a 30 or 32 bust. I have a 44 bust. However, I am very petite and small boned. The 32 and 34 patterns fit my shoulders/neckline/sleeve areas without adjustment. All I do is add to the side seams. I've done grading the standard way and always end up with a garment that is way too big in those areas.

 

[Miss Sis]

I've always had my suspicions about grading patterns and everything posted above makes me realise just sticking to patterns in my size (or one up or down) was a wise choice.

Besides, I hardly have time to make the ones I have, never mind start messing about with grading. AND maths is not my strong point either.

 

[Amy Jeanne]

I'm brand new to sewing and haven't gone into grading territory yet. I fit into vintage size 18, but I buy size 20, too, because I have no problem taking them in a bit. For an absolute beginner, I'd say stick with your size or one size larger.

 

[jtcarrey]

WEEEEE!!!!!

sighs, well I typed out this long message, but then the computer shut down and I lost it, either way, thank you everyone, I'm glad you liked my patterns, I won some more, 7 new patterns from the 1930's, so I'm working on one of them right now (pictured below), I'm going to try something new though (for me) working with a light wool like fabric, eek! Can anyone give me some tips?

This is the pattern I'm working on now:

and here are my other ones I won on ebay:

All these came from Austrailia, so no NRA labels, but most of them for sure are from that time period. Oh and please someone give me tips for working with the wool.

LadyDay, Lauren gave me that link before, I bookmarked it! Gotta love the internet when it comes to learning things

 

[Lady Day]

The NRA insignia was only put on American goods that participated in The Act. These, altho from an American company, would not have had the insignia because they are packaged for the Australian market.

Get yourself one of them vintage sewing books to go with all your wonderful sewing patterns, they are loaded with tips.

Check the FAQ sewing thread as well, but in the mean time...
From one of my books Im paraphrasing...
"Make sure you steam your fabric to prevent shrinkage." Chances are with modern fabric you wont have to do this, just make sure you dry clean your suit.

Also you are going to want to finish all your edges. Id recommend a zig zag stitch around all pieces to prevent fray. Of course, you COULD go the bias tape route, but thats way involved.


Good luck!

LD

 

[Lauren]

JTCarrey, darling little patterns. They're probably in the 35-37 range. I have early buttericks and as far as I remember, they don't put the NRA eagle on their patterns, but I think yours are post NRA. Very cute!

I second what Lady Day says- vintage sewing books are treasures. I've gotten a small library going over the years and they really help when you get "stuck", plus they're great for learning techniques that aren't used today and can help give your garments a genuine vintage look.