Show us your custom shirts.

[Dagwood]

When I got shirts from Hemrajani, I was measured by him at a local hotel (he and his staff go "on tour"). He took the measurements twice on that visit - once by him and once by his assistant. What's that old saying - "measure twice, cut once." I received the shirt a couple months later.

When I got measured by the shirt maker in Sherman Oaks (Freddy Vandecasteele), he took my measurements and then had me come back a week later. After having me try on the unfinished shirt, he made minor corrections to the shirt. A couple days later, the shirt was done. In total, it took about 5-6 business days. Freddy was more expensive than Joe.

P.S. Brian, the experience was very pleasant. I ask lots of questions (occupational hazard) and both men were very understanding. As for Freddy, I e-mailed him before coming in to ask if he could make a collar with undercurve - he said no problem (although he said he didn't make tails like those shown by Matt). I also printed out some pictures for Freddy so he could get a better idea of what I wanted.

 

[Jovan]

I tried asking this in another thread relating to this but got no response... how are Matt's tails really different? They look to just be steep at the sides with a gusset. A little birdy told me gussets aren't really necessary, but they sure look cool.

Are the cuffs and placket unfused, too?

 

[Dagwood]

According to this website: "Sometimes, that dress or shirt almost fits ‚Äì but not quite. You don't want to throw it out, so what do you do? You put in a gusset. A gusset is a piece of material added between the side seams of a garment in order to enlarge it. [¬?] A gusset is not difficult to sew, as long as material can be found to match the garment. In general, half a yard (50 centimeters) of material is sufficient for the average gusset. The gusset material should match the original material as closely as possible in order to disguise the alteration."

According to my shirt maker, Matt's shirt is very "golden era." He advised that to make Matt's shirt, he would have to construct it from the bottom up instead of the top down.

My shirt is unfused.

 

[Tomasso]

Unfused is indeed vastly superior. I know I keep saying it, but it really is. Feels so much more relaxed and comfortable.

It's really just a matter of personal preference. There are trade-offs to be made in the selection of any interlining.

 

[Jovan]

No, it's a matter of FACT. I am right about everything.

...

 

[Feng_Li]

No, it's a matter of FACT. I am right about everything.

...

*laughing to himself* lol

 

[Matt Deckard]

It's just a preference.
Nothing special, just wanted what they had in the past.

I actually consider the first shirt a first fitting (lot of money first fitting) though the following ones with the long tails are the final versions.

 

[Matt Deckard]

There is more or less the collar for which I was going.

 

[Jovan]

Beautiful. No fused collar can sit quite as well as that.

 

[Matt Deckard]

True. His is still a bit more accute and longer.

 

[Anthony Jordan]

I can't bring myself to be photographed with my shirt tails out, but here we go, anyway:

Cream 100% cotton twill tunic shirt from Ravi Tailor, with matching soft (not very soft, actually!) detachable semi-spread turndown collar, removable stays.

For some reason they put buttons on the collars instead of buttonholes!

A fairly basic but hopefully relatively timeless style.

 

[Jovan]

Very... odd feature. I guess they don't count on people still buying collar studs? Could probably be fixed easily.

 

[Anthony Jordan]

Very... odd feature. I guess they don't count on people still buying collar studs? Could probably be fixed easily.

Isn't it just! I'll specify buttonholes next time... It's not a problem per se, simply not as functional, IMNSHO, as the traditional style. But they suffice, and I like the shirt. I particularly like the fact that they were able to satisfy a few of my stylistic tics, such as a split yoke and a horizontal gauntlet buttonhole, for no upcharge.

 

[Jovan]

Baron Boutique doesn't charge for a split yoke either, which is nice. They even put in gussets at the side like I requested. Probably the only vintage feature of my first shirt from them... it has a fused collar much like that one of yours.

 

[Matt Deckard]

You know what the problem is with custom shirts?

Once you start wearing them it's really really hard to go back to the regular off the rack stuff.

 

[Jovan]

Indeed.

 

[Tomasso]

This is my favorite collar style for a dress shirt.

While I've experimented with just about every collar style over the years, this is the one that suits me best. It's been on 90% of my dress shirts since my initial foray into the world of custom shirts.

(3-1/2" points, 1-1/2" front stand, 2" rear stand, zero tie space and double button closure)

 

[cookie]

Some potential styles

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?p=440397#post440397

 

[jgilbert]

When ordering your custom shirts, how much bigger to get them to allow for shinkage? Well and maybe some growth.

 

[Orgetorix]

When ordering your custom shirts, how much bigger to get them to allow for shinkage? Well and maybe some growth.

If you're working with a good shirtmaker, he should know to make them big enough to allow for shrinkage.

If you're sending measurements to an online MTM service, I would allow for a quarter to half an inch.