Show us your British suits

[herringbonekid]

Inside of the lapels split in two. Was this common or for fabric saving?

i've seen that done quite often on the facings of British suits; all to do with getting the maximum amount of pieces out of the minimum fabric.

 

[Eddie Derbyshire]

So common AND fabric saving Thanks for the info.

For me the button placing is ideal - I love when the bottom button is in line with the pockets. And the lapels are solid but not too ostentatious. It's a perfect suit for me! If only if only...

 

[Nick D]

So common AND fabric saving Thanks for the info.

Archibald Whife briefly mentions different ways to make joined facings in The Art of Garment Making, but he didn't like them. "Joined facings, it should be stressed, are not to be commended. Most good tailoring houses will make sure that their coat-makers are supplied with enough cloth to make it convenient for them to cut the facings whole." p. 76

 

[Scottbrad94]

@ Eddie Derbyshire If you do end up selling it I would more than happily take that suit off your hands. I've been averse to buying dark coloured suits for ages sticking to greys, blues, browns, but I would gladly start my collection of dark suiting with that one haha. That is if it's 37/38 but I understand someone already made an offer so I'll wait in line if you do happen to let it go

also @ Estaban68 I feel like since that badge has been on that jacket for so long if you took it off perhaps there might be some marking on the fabric, especially if the bullion is particularly heavy? Either way a great find , it's wonderful when you find beautiful things for dirt cheap. I recently found a Saville Row overcoat from the late 30's/early 40s with horn buttons, peak lapel and raglan shoulders for $15 AUD. My eyes nearly popped out of my head when I found that one.

 

[PeterB]

This came in the post today, and I'm thrilled. Although it's miles too small for me, it's a fantastic example of 1940s tailoring, and I'm nearly 100% sure it's CC41 too. The label has been monstrously cut out, but I can recognise the rounded tops of the 'CC'. It is by 'Burleigh', has 10 and 1/2" cuffs on the trousers, and is probably about 38 regular (the trousers measure about 16" across the waistband). Although it looks straight grey from the photos, it has a tinge more like indigo running through it. It has no turn-ups, but I think that is just from letting them down. Although I have heard that turn-ups were banned for cloth-saving? Is that true?

I really like it, but I don't know whether to sell it or not. It's in immaculate condition, all save for a couple of thread pulls on the chest, and a small moth hole on the sleeve that is on the stripe anyway, and isn't noticeable. Let me know your verdict folks! (Profuse apologies for the crap camera work - all from my phone I'm afraid!)







Here's a shot of the CC41 label. I reckon that's the real McCoy ain't it?


Interesting button closure


Inside of the lapels split in two. Was this common or for fabric saving?







Thanks for looking!

Eddie, keep it for the collection. You may have a grandson one day, and who will teach him about the golden age, if not you?

 

[Two Types]

Eddie, sell it on - let someone else enjoy it!

 

[Mathematicus]

I agree with Two Types - sell it! Nothing is worse than having a stunning suit in your closet that's to small to wear.
I'm not sure I can fit into this, I'm a 36-37 with loooong legs XD

 

[esteban68]

decisions decisions Eddie?

 

[herringbonekid]

some British suits onstage at the Windmill Theatre 1939-40:

 

[PeterB]

Fantastic picture. The check jacket on the left looks quite short, and reminds me more of the 20s. Or am I mistaken? The grey one on the right and the black in the middle look more like typical 30s. Trousers on the black one seem very wide for the period, particularly below the knees.

 

[herringbonekid]

PeterB,

there's no real difference between the length of late '20s British jackets and '30s ones (the '30s look' effectively starts in the UK in 1927).

early '20s Brit jackets will tend to be slightly (but not much) on the longer side. the 'bottom heaviness' usually emphasised by narrower shoulders and a wider skirt. e.g:

 

[PeterB]

Thanks HBK. I see what you mean in the picture.

 

[Metatron]

In fact the relatively short jackets are quite representative of 1930s fashions.

 

[Dirk Wainscotting]

Fantastic picture. The check jacket on the left looks quite short, and reminds me more of the 20s. Or am I mistaken? The grey one on the right and the black in the middle look more like typical 30s. Trousers on the black one seem very wide for the period, particularly below the knees.

It should be remembered that prior to the 1950s (and a bit later) people didn't 'upgrade' their clothing quite as rapidly as nowadays. The selective photographic record of people wearing the natty fashions of a particular decade doesn't represent the general population by any means. There will have been men wearing jackets and suits acquired at least a decade previously.

In 1980 I remember my grandad wearing tweed coats he had on in photos from the 1960s (but was a tight-fisted bugger at the best of times!).

 

[PeterB]

Great suit, Esteban, looks like one that I have from Austin Reed. Got it second hand in the early 90s, and reckoned it for late 60s to early 70s. Has the same slight curve on the lapels.

 

[GHT]

Not a suit but a blazer, I can't find a dedicated thread for club /association blazers please feel free to put this in one if it exists?
Ok I got this last Thursday on a flea market for £3 so nothing lost, it's a smidge tight but not much really and as I'm losing weight I'll fit in it soon.
Not sure on the age but suspect it's a 50's job?

That blazer is a great find, and for three quid, you can't go wrong. A trader would give you a lot more.
Sometime ago, Two Types posted a heads up with regards to a vintage trader in Bournemouth, name of Clobber. My wife and I have a second home about 15 miles north of Bournemouth, whilst staying there recently, we ventured into Bournemouth and came across Clobber. What a treasure trove. The guy wanted twenty quid for this blazer, I told him that it was a bit too tight. He said that I could wear it with the buttons undone and that he would take a tenner. Couldn't resist it.

 

[Speakeasy]

GHT, that blazer is superb with those spectators!

 

[esteban68]

That's a nice blazer GHT , I'd have bought it no problem even at twenty quid.....as for wearing it open who buttons up a jacket not I for sure...never!
Friends have a property in Bournemouth and we've been invited early in New year, they've mentioned Clobber a couple of times so it's definitely on the cards for a visit!

 

[Fastuni]

A British suit made to American fashions for an US serviceman ca. 1950-53.
Typical late-1940, early-1950's cut... high "Hollywood" waist, slightly tapered trousers, wide lapels and broad shoulders.
"Alexandre of Oxford Street London" is catering since 1950 especially to US soldiers.

The cloth is an incredibly soft and comfy rich-blue flannel.

 

[GHT]

Did Carnaby Street, the explosion of pop culture, the here today, gone tomorrow Mod fashions of the early 60's, kill of all those High Street tailors? I remember Alexandre, John Collier, Burtons, Austin Reed, Dunn & Co, Weaver to Wearer, Joseph Hepworth and so many more. Hepworths morphed into the Next stores and Austin Reed survived, but with the demise of those Menswear stores came the dumbing down of any sort of formal attire. Today, even a suited executive gets stared at like he's a freak.