Show us your British suits

[Baron Kurtz]

Nice suit, TT. Very much a classic of the late 40s (going by the fabric and lapel shape).

Not every piece of clothing in the CC41 era had CC41 labels. So far as I understand it, there was no law forcing tailors, for example, to comply with the regulations, but maybe some kind of extra taxation for non-compliant garments. it did, however, become something of a national pride thing to buy CC41 compliant goods.

Of course a 50's dating wouldn't be out of question.
Since it has no CC41-labels I assume it must be before 1942 or indeed early to mid 1950's, no? (Or the label was removed... but why would one do that... [huh])

 

[Fastuni]

So far as I understand it, there was no law forcing tailors, for example, to comply with the regulations

Thanks! So no solid proof for dating, but at least a clue.

 

[Two Types]

Thanks gents. Glad you like the suit. This photo from the early 1950s is typical of the style:

Fastuni, you are correct. The buttons have been moved to make the jacket fit a smaller chest & belly! So the original owner was obviously even larger than me.

The trousers measure 22 inches circumferance around the ankles - very much the average for the period. However, I think they look narrower because of the waist size etc.

The trousers need to be about half an inch longer but, due to some damage to the cuffs, they cannot be let down any further.

 

[Benny Holiday]

The whole ensemble looks great TT. Congrats on finding such a superb vintage suit.

 

[Two Types]

Interesting suit label

I spotted this label on a suit currently for sale by Bookster. The suit looks like it is from the early 1950s. The label refers to the company being "The new system tailor ... it must fit."

That suggests some gimmick for tailoring clothes. Has anyone heard of it? Any ideas about what it might have been?


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AMAZING-GENUINE-VTG-TAILOR-MADE-1940s-50s-DEMOB-DB-SUIT-38-/380541572113?pt=UK_Men_s_Suits_Tailoring&hash=item589a0b9411

 

[Baron Kurtz]

"It must fit". The Upper Street way - if it don't fit we're gonna bloody chop bits orf 'til it do.

Not entirely sure of the topstitching on the trousers - that thread must have faded, no? He can't have used thread that contrasty on purpose, can he?

I suspect this is some kind of new proportionate cutting system that Dave Wax was using.

 

[Two Types]

I just had a look at the stitching around the fly: it's all over the place. It doesn't seem to meet in places, the colour isn't consistent and some is just wonky. I wonder if the fly was reworked at some point? Or was it the shoddy work of a junior member of staff.

There's no name written in the label, so maybe the trousers were so badly finished that the customer rejected it?

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Upper Street was (and is) not very salubrious. I suspect this was a low quality tailor who produced low quality but cheap suits for working men - this does look like a "Sunday" suit - and the quality of stitching was the last thing in the mind of the person making it up.

I would suspect that this is a RTW "off-the-peg" suit, not tailor made.

Dave Wax is still going, btw, but in Hammersmith.

 

[Qirrel]

But the rest of the suit looks neat enough? The stitching on the lapel was done by hand, the "sham" sleeve buttonholes are neat, and the lining looks good too. Guess they got drunk before doing the topstitching?

 

[cookie]

Prince Charles visits Savile Row http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/arti...nt-the-Prince-of-Wales-visits-his-tailor.html

 

[esteban68]

Here's one I found today chaps at a local charity shop, by and large it is in excellent condition, wear is minimal if any... however there are some markings on the exterior of the suit in various places, food/ dirty rain water? hopefully this will dry clean away???
Plus side is it fits perfectly, down side it could be seen as a little boring being in a navy worsted similar to blazer material, has anyone any idea of age? I am guessing pre 1960, there is a label which appears to be dated 3/ 47 though it seems a bit modern for that date???;

Inside the coat pockets are immaculate

 

[esteban68]

here's a few more detail shots of coat;

 

[esteban68]

Here's the trousers complete with 'watch' pocket;

again inside the pockets and linings are as new

 

[esteban68]

a couple more shots;

zip is an Eclair item

marks across trousers legs and across shoulders are/were dust from storage this has brushed of nicely.

 

[herringbonekid]

esteban, that date certainly does look like '47, yet there are a number of things about the suit that are anything but typical for the period; the slanting pockets, the twin vents, the waistband lining, the zip fly. the cut of the trousers does ring true, but the jacket is simply confusing ! (although if it was modelled on a person it might look different). seems you've found a rather unusual British suit.

 

[Guttersnipe]

esteban, that date certainly does look like '47, yet there are a number of things about the suit that are anything but typical for the period; the slanting pockets, the twin vents, the waistband lining, the zip fly. the cut of the trousers does ring true, but the jacket is simply confusing ! (although if it was modelled on a person it might look different). seems you've found a rather unusual British suit.

I suspect those double vents are original and not a later modification for two reasons. First, similarly to single vented coats from the late 40s and early 50s, the length of the vents is quite short. Secondly, from the stitching at the top of the vents, I'd guess that there is several inches of underlapping fabric inside the vent. The jackets I've see that have been modified from ventless to double vented usually have a minimal amount of overlap between the two side of the vent.

 

[RobStC]

esteban, that date certainly does look like '47, yet there are a number of things about the suit that are anything but typical for the period; the slanting pockets, the twin vents, the waistband lining, the zip fly. the cut of the trousers does ring true, but the jacket is simply confusing ! (although if it was modelled on a person it might look different). seems you've found a rather unusual British suit.

Agree with all that HBK says. The lapels have a suggestion of 70's about them, plus no button hole on the lapel (as far as I can see). Trouser waist band and pocket innards certainly look later than '47 to me, and are very similar to suits I have from later 60's into the early 70's. There do seem to be some very varied mixes of stylistic features on British suits, especially ones made in 'the Provinces', and some continued on over a long period, so who knows..... Very wearable suit anyway - enjoy it!

 

[Two Types]

I'm confused. The first photo just says 'modern' and then it all gets messy!

The very short double vents are something I recall seeing from British films made in the mid-1950s. And I agree that the trousers seem to have the right period look. It's just that the 3/47 date is throwing me off. It's time to do some detective work on that tailor!

 

[Chrome]

Here is my British one, unmarked but with english details (interior pockets, trousers). My camera don't cut it in snow well it doesn't fare better in any situation.

I like the wide lapels and button stance.

Best color seen in this one

Pocket flap

 

[Guttersnipe]

Agree with all that HBK says. The lapels have a suggestion of 70's about them, plus no button hole on the lapel (as far as I can see). Trouser waist band and pocket innards certainly look later than '47 to me, and are very similar to suits I have from later 60's into the early 70's. There do seem to be some very varied mixes of stylistic features on British suits, especially ones made in 'the Provinces', and some continued on over a long period, so who knows..... Very wearable suit anyway - enjoy it!

I'm confused. The first photo just says 'modern' and then it all gets messy!

The very short double vents are something I recall seeing from British films made in the mid-1950s. And I agree that the trousers seem to have the right period look. It's just that the 3/47 date is throwing me off. It's time to do some detective work on that tailor!

I've seen that type of waistband on American trousers from the early(ish) 1950s, I'm not so sure about English garments, though. Certainly 1947 does seem a tad early to see a zipper fly on a pair of English trousers. Since it's custom, though, the possibility of wacky / eccentric / extremely fashion forward styling can't be discounted out of hand. However, usually it works the other way around (i.e., a suit looks much older than it is it was made by a conservative tailor for an older guy that was set in his ways).