Show Us Vintage GERMAN Suits

[Two Types]

Love it. I need more of this stuff in my life.

 

[Fastuni]

I sold this one years ago... but for reference I post the photos.

A 1927-1929 German blue serge DB.

 

[Fastuni]

A very similar dark-blue worsted DB, but from the second half of the 1940's. Interesting comparison piece to the late 20's specimen.

 

[Two Types]

Is this another new one you are keeping, or is it moving on?

 

[Fastuni]

I found it yesterday at a goodwill.
It is a size 41... I will take in maybe one or two inches to make it fit my waist.

The body, sleeves and legs are fortunately long enough for me, so it certainly will be a keeper.
A very versatile suit in such excellent condition (probably worn only on one or two special occasions) is hard to come by.

Fortunately the legs have been tapered without cutting off the excess.
I will widen the legs to the original 32 cm (!) instead of the 24 cm it received during the 1950s.

 

[herringbonekid]

the buttons and pockets appear to be quite low on that late-20s suit.

 

[Fastuni]

Low button stance (below pockets) was not unusual on European late 20's DBs.

BTW this suit had one of the highest trousers rises I have encountered. Well above the navel.

Here a ca. 1928-30 photo from Iran showing low set buttons and pockets.

 

[Papperskatt]

This has and English label, so it might not be Dutch. Looks 19th century?
View attachment 17081

There's a repro jacket very similar to this one on US eBay right now. It is advertised as a 1800s riding jacket so it seems like you might be right and the jacket is older than my previous guess that it was from the teens.

Sadly too big for me, but maybe of interested to someone? 44-46" chest.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/131325706226?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[The Good]

Does anybody have examples of Stresemann suits? I am planning to wear this style in the near future. So far, I have new mid-grey pinstriped pants, and a vintage charcoal jacket with maroon pinstripes. Do I need a waistcoat for it to be considered a Stresemann, and is a striped jacket acceptable? From what I understand, it is a variation of what is known in the United States as a stroller suit, but with a shorter length lounge jacket, instead. Is that correct? Thank you.

 

[Fastuni]

A Stresemann is the same as a Stroller. They are both essentially a dressed down morning coat ensemble. Instead of the long morning coat with top hat, one wears a black homburg (or bowler) with a black/charcoal jacket (same as suit jacket) with grey-striped morning trousers. Ideally the stresemann jacket has peak lapels, but also a notch lapel can be acceptable. SB or DB are both acceptable.

A striped jacket is not useable for a Stresemann/Stroller. Only a solid black or charcoal. It can however be a marengo (slightly heathered with white fibres).
The trousers should normally be actual morning trousers with grey/black/white chevrons and stripes. They are distinct from normal pinstripes. However there was great leeway for trousers. You could wear solid mid to dark grey trousers or houndtooth or herringbone patterned trousers. One also can find illustrations showing various grey or black pinstripe trousers.

If you wear a SB jacket you also need a waistcoat. Usually light grey or same fabric as jacket - but there were also some more colorful variations (buff yellow).

As for "shorter" Stresemann jackets... some may have been made with a bit shorter length because it was intended for conferences and formal occasions where one mostly sits. A shorter jacket would accomodate this.

 

[Two Types]

I think there is an entire thread on Stresemann/Stroller suits somewhere on the FL.

 

[Rabbit]

J.B., perhaps you got the idea of a shorter length from knowing that there was a period when German jackets tended to be quite short - in the early 30s.

Another trouser pattern for strollers is the glencheck, properly in black-and-white with no colored overcheck in it.
The jacket ideally has welted (unflapped) pockets, and the trousers for strollers are properly uncuffed, although Esquire mentions the short-lived appearance of cuffed trousers in the early/mid 30s.

The pattern of the famous "striped pants" for formal and informal daywear is called cashmere stripe, by the way. There must have been more than 100 or 200 different patterns for cashmere stripes alone.

The DB stroller is a nice way of wearing informal daywear without standing out as much as the SB variety with waistcoat would do.

Edit:
You mean this one, TT?
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?11818-Stroller-Morning-Dress-only


Oh, and there are a few strollers in Section V: Formal and semi-formal, both day and evening of the Esquire thread.

 

[The Good]

Thank you, everyone! What I meant by shorter jacket was just a lounge jacket in general, instead of a tailcoat or a cutaway coat. I should have been more clear, although the lounge jacket that I mentioned is also shorter by design, single-breasted and having been made around 1963 in Yugoslavia. It may not be a German suit, but I thought that the concept of the Stresemann was enough that I would post about it here. Apparently, you are right, it is linked to stroller attire in general, as well. When it comes to following the conventions of the stroller/Stresemann, I think the only fault of my suit coat is that it has those subtle maroon or burgundy pinstripes in the fabric, although to me, it is certainly a welcome feature that makes it distinct, in addition to being the suit that my grandfather wore getting married. Now, I am also going to try to find a dove grey or a cream colored waistcoat in the future.

 

[Dostioffsky]

There's a repro jacket very similar to this one on US eBay right now. It is advertised as a 1800s riding jacket so it seems like you might be right and the jacket is older than my previous guess that it was from the teens.

Sadly too big for me, but maybe of interested to someone? 44-46" chest.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/131325706226?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

View attachment 19066

Mmh interesting.. After looking through quite a few pictures I yet have to find a jacket really similar to mine... The way mine is cut does seem to be more like those 1900-1910 'full' jackets. The (natural) shoulders fit me perfectly, but the chest is quite large. (although perhaps this was common from the late 1800's as well, I don't really know but I think shoulders were wider/padded then?...)

 

[Broccoli]

Here is a picture of me wearing my ADEFA sport suit that some might recognize from eBay:

It also has a pair of plus fours. If there is interest more detailed pictures could be taken. I am interested in what some of you are saying about the age of the suit.

Also here are a few pictures from the first wear of another German suit. It is an instant favourite. As with the first one, should there be any interest, I could take real pictures of the suit. I am very thankful to the person who sold this to me.

Sorry for all the poor images. Wish I could show how well it really looks but there is no point in taking pictures if I'm not certain they are wanted.

 

[Metatron]

Both are lovely, but that casual suit is so spot on it hurts.

 

[herringbonekid]

both great suits, and nicely put together outfits.


edit: i agree that the ADEFA suit is an outstanding find. especially as it has the extra plus fours.

 

[Papperskatt]

You've got yourself two very fine suits there. More detailed pics would be very appreciated.

I'm super-jelly of the ADEFA suit, although I probably would be too conflicted to wear it.

 

[LadyBaltimore]

That ADEFA suit is swoon-worthy!

 

[Nick D]

Does the button on the breast pocket actually close the pocket, or is it for show? A couple Romanians from the Acsinte archives have the button detail, but a pocket square is stuffed in the pocket so they were clearly only decorative on their jackets.