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Show Us Vintage GERMAN Suits

Fastuni

Call Me a Cab
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2,277
Location
Germany
A peculiar German Loden jacket, about size 40-42, made in Saxony (probably for a hunter/sport-shooter) - obviously influenced by Alpine fashion:

Any opinions on the age?

It features long narrow buttonholes (for real horn buttons), a long flared silhouette, high armholes, extremely slanted shoulder seams, very lightly padded shoulders, richly patterned sleeve lining, lots of handstitching...
The crafting would be already quite old-fashioned for the 1930's IMO, only the lapels might suggest 30's.
My gut feeling and the details mentioned above tell me rather 1910's-20's... anyone agree?

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Any fans of Loden or Alpine style here? :D

Best Regards
 
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Qirrel

Practically Family
Messages
590
Location
The suburbs of Oslo, Norway
I agree with you. The very narrow buttonholes (not edged with gimp) are more typical of older dates. So is the slanted and slightly curved shoulder seam, the body lining, the sleeve lining which seems to be cotton, the run of the side seams and the cut of the sleeves. Could be 30s, but would have been quite old fashioned by the late 30s. The square hem, lack of front dart and length and flare of the skirt is also indicative, but, as with some of the other details, might be due to the fact that it is a sporting/"alpine style" jacket.
 

Flat Foot Floey

My Mail is Forwarded Here
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3,220
Location
Germany
I know a guy from sweden who might like this. But he is size 36/38 rather than 40/42. Funny, isn't it?

I wouldn't wear it myself and tihnk it would look out of place in the Ruhrpott or even Wiesbaden. Ask someone from bavaria. Oh wait...that's you. ;)
 

Fastuni

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2,277
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Germany
@FFF

Haha... :D except that "Trachten" don't look good on me at all. It's too large and too old-fashioned for me anyway. ;)

But I can imagine that it would look good on someone who is more of an outdoorsman or "Oktoberfest" enthusiast.
It certainly is in an outstanding condition for it's age.

@Qirrel

I'll send you a PM.
 
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Fastuni

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2,277
Location
Germany
More photos of the "C&A - Formtreu" 30's suit (now for sale in the classifieds). German "off-the-rack" clothing is quite an interesting field, particularly "big names" like C&A... tailor manufacturing was at that time still very strong here compared to the US... in 1931 50% of German menswear was made by "small tailors". It is very interesting to read about the anger, frustration and contempt expressed in German tailor publications of the 1920-40's over the expanding industrial "confection" production of clothing.

As a sidenote, "C&A" had for years among many Germans the reputation of helping Catholic causes.:rolleyes:

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Fastuni

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2,277
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Germany
I'll do my best. ;)
Worth of note C&A had high-street stores in Britain from 1922-2000.
Now finding the British C&A equivalent to this suit... that would be something. :)
They certainly would have a separate collection for Britain - with British tailoring features.
 
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Two Types

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,456
Location
London, UK
I don't know much about C&A in the UK. I think they only started in the UK much later. I can recall in the 1990s when C&A still operated in the UK there was nothing good about them (apart from ski clothing). In the same period I visited Berlin and went into C&A and the clothing was much better. I bought a number of summer shirts which I wore for many years after. They certainly didn't sell them in the UK!
 

Fastuni

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2,277
Location
Germany
Their core business certainly was/is Germany.
Found something on their history here: http://www.answers.com/topic/c-a-5

Quote: "Clemens Brenninkmeijer's efforts at further international expansion were only partially successful. The first British store was opened in London's Oxford Street in 1922. Later in the decade, other British stores were opened in Birmingham and Liverpool."

No idea what they sold in the UK at that time. Maybe the Baron or HBK know something about 1920-30's Brit C&A clothing or ads?
 
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Fastuni

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2,277
Location
Germany
A German sports suit, factory made by "Hansa clothing workshops Plaue/Havel" - so this one is from Brandenburg.
Does anyone know whether there is a special name for this kind of fabric?

Sports back with popular Continental European styling: scalloped yoke and real half belt. The pleats at back and pockets are decorative/non-functional.
Very heavily padded at chest and shoulder... the longish chest and overall shape suggests to me a dating of around 1940-42.
Interesting stone-nut buttons with ribbed edge surface.

I have never worn such high-waisted slacks before... unlike most trousers, which reach a bit over the navel, this one is almost 3 inches higher, reaching the natural waist.

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Best Regards
 

Two Types

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,456
Location
London, UK
That's a very nice suit, althought the scalloped back is a little 'fast' for my tastes. Also it seems to have a rather large gap between the top fly button and the waistband.

It's difficult to tell from the photos but the fabric looks similar to Keepers Tweed.
 

Flat Foot Floey

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,220
Location
Germany
Great suit. Different kind of flashy than the californian suit but still kinda iconic for the 30s in europe or at least germany. Hard to find for sure. How did you find this?
 

Fastuni

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,277
Location
Germany
It really has all the bells and whistles of a 30-40's German sports/country suit.
What pleases me particularly is that the label gives us an exact location.

If I remember correctly I got this through an internet contact from a household dissolution at a farm.

Also it seems to have a rather large gap between the top fly button and the waistband.

It's difficult to tell from the photos but the fabric looks similar to Keepers Tweed.

It's a 40 Long, but yes, the trousers are rather unusually high waisted ... and it is factory made, so no special bespoke "oddity".
Very comfortable though.

"Keepers Tweed" seems to be the case here. It has that diagonally roped weave.
Incredibly hard-wearing and robust fabric - "Thornproof" indeed. Ironing the trousers is an ordeal, though. :D
 

Fastuni

Call Me a Cab
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2,277
Location
Germany
Great - very similar indeed!
However I'm not sure whether his suit had in fact the "front belt removed".
Looks like an honest flapped-pocket sports-suit with half belt (not a Norfolk).
 

DamianM

Vendor
Messages
2,055
Location
Los Angeles
More photos of the "C&A - Formtreu" 30's suit (now for sale in the classifieds). German "off-the-rack" clothing is quite an interesting field, particularly "big names" like C&A... tailor manufacturing was at that time still very strong here compared to the US... in 1931 50% of German menswear was made by "small tailors". It is very interesting to read about the anger, frustration and contempt expressed in German tailor publications of the 1920-40's over the expanding industrial "confection" production of clothing.

As a sidenote, "C&A" had for years among many Germans the reputation of helping Catholic causes.:rolleyes:

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Perfection
 

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