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Show Us Vintage GERMAN Suits

Dirk Wainscotting

A-List Customer
Messages
354
Location
Irgendwo
Those are lovely, Matt! I particularly like the anti-belly on the lapels on the anthracite suit, the way they almost bend IN. Really interesting look. Thanks for posting the photos!

That's the very thing that would put me off. I like a bit of belly on the lapel, though you can't get much on high buttoning coats. So many years I was a three-button man, but now I just can't wear a three-button coat and to be honest they just don't suit me. Length and belly works much better with a peaked rever.
 

Mathematicus

A-List Customer
Messages
379
Location
Coventry, UK
That's the very thing that would put me off. I like a bit of belly on the lapel, though you can't get much on high buttoning coats. So many years I was a three-button man, but now I just can't wear a three-button coat and to be honest they just don't suit me. Length and belly works much better with a peaked rever.
I second your ideas - especially on high buttoning coats. But I like too much three-button coats that I can't abide two-buttons. My favourite style is a soft three-button which rolls to the second (but not completely, just partially), and with a lower stance, around the belly button.
Pointless to note, these details are almost never found in ready made suits.
 

Patrick Hall

Practically Family
Messages
541
Location
Houston, TX
I think the anti-belly can work with a single-breasted coat and a sufficiently broad lapel. I wonder whether it might especially flatter someone with a stocky build. Too much lapel can unpleasantly echo the expanse of flesh underneath. Though, in general I too prefer full-bodied lapels, especially on double-breasted coats.
 

Fastuni

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,277
Location
Germany
German 1930's plus-four + waistcoat set.

Click this link for more info & photos I posted in the Plus-Four thread.

Knickombo%201.jpg
 

Fastuni

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,277
Location
Germany
German 1930's bespoke tailored sportcoat in ca. Sz. US/UK 44/46.

Actually an orphaned suit jacket with a beige-grey herringbone weave separated by very subtle, almost microscopic dark red needlestripes.
So subtle that it works great as a sportcoat combined with grey or brown trousers.

As you see I ironed out the sleeves to lengthen them to the max (70 cm).

Perhaps something for the larger fellows here?

20190612_100211-1.jpg
 

the_imperialist

One of the Regulars
Messages
220
Location
New Zealand
Fantastic find Fastuni! Doesn't get any better than that grey 3 piece - you don't happen to be wanting to get rid of it by any chance? :p
 
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Fastuni

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,277
Location
Germany
Fantastic find Fastuni! Doesn't get any better than that grey 3 piece - you don't happen to be wanting to get rid of it by any chance? :p

Matt is considering it. You'd be next in line. Did you have a chance yet to make the finishing touches to the German garments I sent you?

You have a lovely collection and wear them very well.
 

the_imperialist

One of the Regulars
Messages
220
Location
New Zealand
Wayne you are the best-dressed gentleman in Auckland and possibly the entire Southern Hemisphere! Bravo!

Ha, you flatter me Benny. There are plenty of stylish blokes in Aussie and rest of NZ. I just try to bring a but of European styling down under.

Matt is considering it. You'd be next in line. Did you have a chance yet to make the finishing touches to the German garments I sent you?

You have a lovely collection and wear them very well.

Thanks Fastuni. I've been enjoying the trench in our wet winter. I've just got the sportscoat sorted, the suit will be this weekend. My fiancée operated the sewing machine for longer seams, but she has a few project on at the moment, so naturally I'm patiently waiting for my turn.

Ah well too slow! That's a great suit, I'm sure Matt will love it.

Hope you are both keeping well!
 
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the_imperialist

One of the Regulars
Messages
220
Location
New Zealand
Just picked up another off of the ebay (just a simple black 4x2 2pc), soon to begin it's long journey down under. The internal griping belt is a feature that's always fascinated me - going through this thread I've always assumed this feature to be a good indicator of a 50s suit (I've another German suit with this feature) - was wondering if anyone knows of any detailed literature on this feature?
 

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Fastuni

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,277
Location
Germany
The "Rigepa" internal elastic belt is most frequently found on 50's trousers, but the patent dates back to the mid 1920's!
 

the_imperialist

One of the Regulars
Messages
220
Location
New Zealand
The "Rigepa" internal elastic belt is most frequently found on 50's trousers, but the patent dates back to the mid 1920's!

Thanks for sharing Fastuni - I didn't know the providence on the "Rigepa" patent - I'll post more detailed photos once it arrives. I got it for 45 Euros, so even if 50s it'll be a nice addition to the office wardrobe.
 

the_imperialist

One of the Regulars
Messages
220
Location
New Zealand
Picked this up. On its way in due time. I believe late 20s, seller told me its a summer weight flannel. Lovely navy with burgundy stripe.
 

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Fastuni

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,277
Location
Germany
Great find! It is certainly ca. 1927-30. What an interesting color combination.

The "bunny ear" suspender strap buttons are marked "HJ - DJ" (Hitlerjugend, Deutsche Jugend). Must have been a later replacement with some buttons that were at hand.

The lapels would benefit from a gentle re-ironing to restore the "roll" towards the top buttonhole.
 

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