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Show Us Vintage GERMAN Suits

herringbonekid

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,016
Location
East Sussex, England
I consider 750 gbp a lot of money and wouldn't like to see this beautiful suit wear out or getting stained by oil.

it already has a stain on the lapel, several visible repairs and a worn out crotch. personally, i don't see how it could be worn in the condition it's in except as a roughed-up / vagabond look.

(referring to the German plus four / knicker suit on the previous page).
 
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Flat Foot Floey

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,220
Location
Germany
it already has a stain on the lapel, several visible repairs and a worn out crotch. personally, i don't see how it could be worn in the condition it's in except as a roughed-up / vagabond look.

(referring to the German plus four / knicker suit on the previous page).

Ok, you are right. I didn't really watch that close. But would you pay 750 gbp on a stained suit? I would try to offer them a much lower bid. Well actually I would even bother.

.
[huh][huh][huh]

Confused title, confused description, confused everything.
:eusa_doh: Words fail me.
 

herringbonekid

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,016
Location
East Sussex, England
But would you pay 750 gbp on a stained suit?

no. a stain on a lapel is something that is virtually impossible to get away with. i can definitely see this suit in a 20s/30s-set film that features ruffian/vagabond/apache types though (think L'Atalante) ;)
that's one thing that the theatrical costume rental business has over private sales; stains and rips might actually be required !
 

Mario

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,664
Location
Little Istanbul, Berlin, Germany
Semi-OT: A couple of days ago I was watching a TV feature film about Albert Speer. Throughout the film, Sebastian Koch (Speer) is wearing a couple of really nice vintage belted back suits. In one scene he's inspecting a building site, sporting a particulary nice medium gray belt-back jacket (appearantly in great condition, but that's of course hard to tell) when suddenly a flush of white paint comes splashing down on his jacket and...gone! A beautiful original vintage jacket killed in a split second. That's what film production companies do with vintage clothing...
 

nihil

One of the Regulars
Messages
206
Location
Copenhagen
I hardly think that they used real paint for that. Probably used a movie substitute. Movie production companies are very cost concerned, and if they are to do such a scene, they would rather use something that could be cleaned away afterwards, thus saving the suit - and the money. If they used real paint, they would have to get it exactly right in the first take.

BUT, why shouldn't they do that for the big screen. Is it more legitimate for someone to purchase the suit and wear it until it falls apart?
 

Mario

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,664
Location
Little Istanbul, Berlin, Germany
I think indeed it's more legitimate for someone who loves vintage clothes to wear - and care for - them as long as possible. The suit would probably be on screen for just a few scenes before it gets killed. Film companies could still do with costumes. But these are of course just my $0.02. Guess I'm slightly biased here... ;)
 
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esteban68

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,107
Location
Chesterfield, Derbyshire, England
Not surprising Marc considering that many emmigrant tailors were of German of East european extraction I suppose, I can't see Monty Burton making a typically 'English' suit when he first arrived in England and set up shop in my home town.
 

Rocky Montana

New in Town
Messages
12
Location
Frankfurt / Oder
This one also is american and looks pretty german to me:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-S...=UK_Men_s_Suits_Tailoring&hash=item3f140a036b

Have you seen what the cinetex guys wrote about the 1990s?
I made about the same experiences......

They wrote quite a long, but not uninteresting text in the cheap german suits thread, here it is again:


We, Bjorn and Marcus, are the guys that placed several “cheap” black german suits on Ebay Germany and GB and a few more colorful items on Ebay GB.
Yesterday we took a look at this amazing forum for the first time, after a lounge member had told us several times about it.
We have read several hours last night and were very excited about this blast of information – we think this forum must be highly addictive for all retro froms!
Also interesting was, to read several comments about us.
Perhaps it might be a good idea to explain what we do.

When in November 1989 hipsters in Western Germany wore chopped frock coats and mutilated leather ulsters, the german wall fell and gave us ten years of vintage Eldorado.
The most exciting things appeared on markets; furniture, motorcycles & cars, 78records – and vintage clothing.
Ask any german junk dealer, the general opinion was that glory would never end.
We were deep into swing music and 30s clothing and collected all through the 90s, on fleamarkets, house cleaning companies, private newspaper adds, social welfare station and rug yards.
Our thing was men’s wear from the 1930s to 70s
The idea was to open up a shop only for vintage men’s wear some day, but this most probably wouldn’t have worked out.
We stopped collecting vintage about 1999, when it was obvious, that only 60s and 70s could be found any more.
In 2000 we sold about half of our collection (which was not the smartest idea…..) and put the rest in storage at a barn at Marcus’ parents estate, where was lots of space, fortunately.
Ten years later, having families and kids, we started to cash in the rest.
Within the last two years we have provided most major costume companies in Europe with new stock, also theaters and a few movie productions.
Beginning of this year we also started to list items on Ebay.
Some Fedora Lounge members wrote that our articles are too cheap or too expensive; we do not really understand that.
Why shouldn’t a 30s suit in an almost unusable size be sold for 39,--Euros as well as the 1920s suit in an excellent size and condition for 750,--BPD?
Besides selling the articles we are interested in arousing attention among professional costume people all over the world.
95% of our cinetex business are late 50s to mid 70s items.
This material is also great but just not approbiate to reach the right people.

We are very happy to have a chance to tell you all that about us, you might understand, that it is quite funny to read other peoples comments and conjectures about yourself…….

YES we will do some more Ebay listings from time to time in the future, but NO, there won’t be any surprises like white 30s suits for 7’-8’ people, Knickerbocker sports suits with double belt and two flatcaps, the suit of your favorite german UFA actor…..it’s all bread & butter!
 

Marc Chevalier

Gone Home
Messages
18,192
Location
Los Feliz, Los Angeles, California


This one should be purchased immediately by anyone interested in early 20th century New York's 'pantheon' of tailors. "Schanz" was considered one of the greatest (and one of the most expensive) East Coast merchant tailors, on a par with "Wetzel", "Twyeffort", and "Stadler & Stadler". Judging by the cut, I'd say that it's from 1913, not 1919.
 
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Mario

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,664
Location
Little Istanbul, Berlin, Germany
So what detail (or range of details) is it exactly about the cut and styling of the suit that makes it possible for you to narrow down the time bracket to 1913 instead of 1919? A mere five years can (and most probably will) of course yield quite a lot of at least minor changes in style, but what are , exactly, the details you can see here?
 

Marc Chevalier

Gone Home
Messages
18,192
Location
Los Feliz, Los Angeles, California
So what detail (or range of details) is it exactly about the cut and styling of the suit that makes it possible for you to narrow down the time bracket to 1913 instead of 1919?


Men's American 'sack' suit jackets in 1913 still had a long, boxy cut, stiff pressed (not rolled) lapels, and wide sleeves. Trousers were wide at the thigh and narrow at the cuff.

By 1919, suit jackets were a bit shorter and had a wasp waist, rolled lapels, and narrow sleeves. Trousers were narrow from thigh to cuff.
 
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Mario

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,664
Location
Little Istanbul, Berlin, Germany
Thanks. Now that you mentioned it I bothered to take a closer look, especially at the trousers on the hangers. I can see what you mean...

With photos of lapels in ebay listing there is alway the problem that sometimes all life had been pressed out of them before they were photographed, even on suit from the 30's or 40's. Which reminds me that not long ago I took a 30's jackets to the cleaners and told them not to press the lapels flat; they looked at me as if I'd gone completely daft...
 

Rudie

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,069
Location
Berlin
Which reminds me that not long ago I took a 30's jackets to the cleaners and told them not to press the lapels flat; they looked at me as if I'd gone completely daft...

Was this Pinguin or some other cleaner?
 

Rudie

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,069
Location
Berlin
Which reminds me that not long ago I took a 30's jackets to the cleaners and told them not to press the lapels flat; they looked at me as if I'd gone completely daft...

Was this Pinguin or some other cleaner?
 

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