Show Us Vintage GERMAN Suits

[Flat Foot Floey]

Trousers without a waistband are sometimes called the Hollywood Waist. The often come with dropped belt loops and were fashionable in the 40s (and in the USA, hence the name).

 

[Mario]

Flo, you're too quick for me...

 

[Fastuni]

Yes Baron, both trousers have no added waistband. Insofar they resemble the Hollywood trousers from the US. It is apparently an international 40's fashion to leave out a separate waistband.

 

[Two Types]

Here is an orphaned German suit jacket, one of a number I have received from Fastuni. It is most likely a 1940s double breasted jacket that has been converted to a single breasted. I've included some photos to show the interior, showing the tell-tale signs of conversion. I believe Fastuni has tailoring instructions somewhere to show how this was achieved. It has very pronounced shoulder pads:

 

[Two Types]

Here's another jacket that came to me via Fastuni. It appears that Bavaria is a good place for vintage clothes in larger sizes.

It's a double breasted orphaned suit jacket, most likely from the early 1950s:

 

[Two Types]

Lastly, a single breasted stroller jacket and waistcoat, most likely from the 1950s:

 

[Fastuni]

Glad that almost all my larger garments are about your size.
The waistcoat certainly calls for very high rise trousers.

I really like the first coat... particularly the shoulders.
Ideal as an everyday "beater" and with many practical pockets.

I have to check the ca.1943-47 tailor mags regarding the DB conversion issue. I think there were some hints for conversions, but I am not sure.

 

[Qirrel]

Those are some really nice pieces. Although I am not a fan of built up shoulders, I like the gentle curve of the shoulders on the first coat.

 

[Fastuni]

Breuninger is a higher end German men´s outfitter in Stuttgart. This one is an extremely rare labelled Breuninger suit from 1935-1940 (as the cut and ADEFA label suggest).
The flagship store depicted on the label was destroyed in 1944.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Breuninger

These ¨big name" houses (Breuninger, Knagge&Peitz etc.) had both off-the-rack ready made suits and higher priced in-house tailoring (in different price classes depending on fabric and details).
This one is probably made to measure/bespoke and not off-the-rack.

See the Classifieds: http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?77841

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Man, you find the best stuff. I wouldn't think this was still possible in germany otherwise. And be lieve me I AM looking out for it. The suit seems conservative by international standards but the shape and color are actually quite cool methinks.

 

[Two Types]

Splendid suit - and a very nice label.

 

[Fastuni]

Thanks guys. Yesterday I scored some more 30's German garments...
Among them a 30's German Afternoon-/Evening-Suit with white shadowstripes on black.

Outstanding bespoke tailoring. The outside seam of the legs is neatly top-stitched - very seldom to find that.
The legs are 11 inches wide and beautifully straight cut.

It is a very long 40... the sleeves are 27 inches, the inside-leg 35.4 inches... the longest suit I ever found.
So maybe this one will go to Rudie.

 

[Rudie]

Yes, I'll take it.

Thanks for offering it to me first. It makes my day!

 

[herringbonekid]

nice suit !

i think that's the smallest rear trouser yoke extension i've ever seen (the bit beneath the rear belt loop).

 

[Broccoli]

I love the german suits from that time. I like how the vest buttons are placed, is there any special reason to place them that way?

 

[Rudie]

nice suit !

i think that's the smallest rear trouser yoke extension i've ever seen (the bit beneath the rear belt loop).

What's the yoke for, anyway?

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

The yoke is usually seen on suits that were let out all the way and then some more. I have some black trousers that had a massive insert of almost matching fabric. Luckily I could take them in again.
Not sure if this one is for the same purpose.

Broccoli, about the vest placket thingy; I think it makes a sharper point and upside down V (if you know what I mean)

 

[herringbonekid]

on most suit trousers the yoke is made from the same fabric, and the most likely explanation is that it was done simply to save fabric when cutting pieces out and make the most economic use of odd pieces (see fabric 'lay').

 

[Fastuni]

Floey, I think what you are referring to is an inserted "wedge" to extend the waist of the trousers.

This "yoke" is, as HBK said, the result of economic cutting.
Since these legs are 121 cm long (with faux cuffs... the inside of the cuffs is from a different black-striped fabric), I can imagine that every bit of the fabric length was needed...
hence the small inserted yoke on top.

 

[herringbonekid]

you often see the yoke on workwear trousers:

... it seems pretty mad that a measly two inches more of fabric could cause such a problem, but it occurs often enough that it obviously did.