Giftmacher
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The Journeymen Tailor's Union of America
1865-1876, 1883-1920s
The Journeymen Tailor's Union of America originally organized in 1865, but dissolved in 1876 after massive embezzlement of funds by one of its officers. It re-organized in 1883, and had jurisdiction over unionized custom tailors. Its refusal to accept "less skilled" otr and mtm tailors led to the formation of the UGWA. They first issued a union label in 1891. I can not find reference to the union past c.1929. Modern history books point to 1914 as the demise of the union, but period documents and garments show it was around until at least the 1920s.
Custom Tailor's Union Label.
Custom Tailor's Union Label variant.
1920s variant
As it came from a costume house, I wonder if the odd cut is a later modification. My guess would be a cutaway coat that had the back cut down at a later point.
It's definitely the 1939-1949 label. Note the "80" in the bottom right corner.
Also the lower button stance would be rather indicative of a mid- to late-40's date.
I don't discredit this info at all, but I have a '39 union tag DB jacket that has a "2" like the '36 tags, and I have a 1926 dated DB with the same exact button stance.
Fastuni was referring to the "80" in the bottom right, below the second "a" in "America". Generally this is the easiest way to differentiate between between 1936 and 1939 union tags.
Yes, but I was explaining I have 1939 Union Tag jacket with a "2" where the 80 would be.
I have a 1926 dated DB with the same exact button stance.