Shoulder and pit to pit

[Pdawg]

Hello

My measured chest is 39" and shoulder is 17" with the clothing i intend to wear with the jacket. I want a closer fit. And i am finding it difficult to determine my measurements...

Do you think a (39" + 3")/(2) 21" pit to would be too tight? Or would a 21.5 (+4) would work better?

Also, would a 17.5 " shoulder work or should i go with 17.75 " or 18"?

I am specifically looking at 3 oz horsehide.

Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[Monitor]

Forget about the shoulder width. As a measurement, it kind of doesn't exist. It is very hard to measure shoulders and the actual shoulder width depends on the positioning of the sleeves. What jacket are you looking at?

As for the chest, I personally would go with 21.5 to 22 even and that's for the closer fit that won't look like the jacket's been sprayed on.

 

[Peacoat]

I agree with Monitor as to the shoulder measurement. For the chest measurement, rather coming here, you need to have discussions with whoever is building your jacket. The p2p is going to vary depending on the thickness of the leather and the fit you desire. If you are buying it off the rack, the company can also help with that.

 

[Pdawg]

I agree with Monitor as to the shoulder measurement. For the chest measurement, rather coming here, you need to have discussions with whoever is building your jacket. The p2p is going to vary depending on the thickness of the leather and the fit you desire. If you are buying it off the rack, the company can also help with that.

Thanks for the advice, i was thinking i needed a 21.5" or 22" for the chest. I am looking at various jackets......1930s aero hb, drifter al

 

[Pdawg]

Thanks for the advice, i was thinking i needed a 21.5" or 22" for the chest. I am looking at various jackets......1930s aero hb, drifter al

Ordering a jacket is so complicated......do you ever modify the bottom hem?

 

[nick123]

I have a 39 chest and I'd never order anything with less than 18" shoulders, but that's through trial and error and shoulder advice is practically useless so I'll shut up.

 

[Monitor]

Other than the sleeve length, I don't mess with the measurements. If the size works for me, generally the entire jacket will be fine - except with Schott, their jackets have way too much belly room. But aye, makers know what they're doing, helluva lot more than we think we do and it's best to just trust them on these things.

 

[Pdawg]

Other than the sleeve length, I don't mess with the measurements. If the size works for me, generally the entire jacket will be fine - except with Schott, their jackets have way too much belly room. But aye, makers know what they're doing, helluva lot more than we think we do and it's best to just trust them on these things.

Oh i see and yeah that makes sense to go with their cuts. They definitely know better than i do . And yeah the 18" shoulder probably works for me and with the 39" chest. I think we might be the same size.

 

[AdeeC]

I have a 39 chest. 21.5in PP is the minimum I prefer and up to 22.5. As for shoulders measured from seam to seam in the usual way 18- 18.5in is my preference. But I do have a jacket with the shoulder seam at 19in and it fits well. I also have a vintage jacket with 21in PP and 17.5in shoulder which is slim tight fitting that I wear occasionally. These measurements are the least concern. Arm length is more of an issue when considering a jacket for me. I agree with Monitor on Schott jackets. And for heavy leather I would go for more genorous fit.

 

[Pdawg]

I have a 39 chest. 21.5in PP is the minimum I prefer and up to 22.5. As for shoulders measured from seam to seam in the usual way 18- 18.5in is my preference. But I do have a jacket with the shoulder seam at 19in and it fits well. I also have a vintage jacket with 21in PP and 17.5in shoulder which is slim tight fitting that I wear occasionally. These measurements are the least concern. Arm length is more of an issue when considering a jacket for me. I agree with Monitor on Schott jackets. And for heavy leather I would go for more genorous fit.

Thanks for all the useful info guys and i guess the chest does determines the shoulder width. It is much appreciated.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Shoulders can matter. I can't get anything under 18.5 inches over my shoulders. 19 to 20 inches is ideal yet most jackets my size - 42 - come with shoulders that are too tight or simply look too narrow.

Seen many an Aero that would fit but for the shoulders.

IMO most measurements can vary by half an inch to an inch without issue except sleeves.

 

[Jaime]

For me the shoulders are actually pretty important for two reasons. One is obviously the room up there, specially when layering, and how that affects to the general shape of the jacket, and two, to determine the real sleeve length.

The actual length of the sleeves is the addition of 2 numbers, the length of the sleeve from shoulder seam to bottom of the sleeve and the half of the shoulder length. For example, if you have a 40cm shoulder length, and the sleeve from the shoulder seam to the bottom is 60cm, your sleeve is 80cm.

Sometimes you think the sleeve is gonna work but then the jacket has a bit too much shoulder and the sleeves are definitely long. Or the opposite.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Well put Jamie - shoulder width can really effect the shape of the jacket and sleeve length.

 

[Sloan1874]

Just to echo Monitor, beyond the sleeve length, I would never screw around with a jacket's dimensions. Once you start shortening a jacket the proportions are thrown off and it can start to look boxy or, at worse, just plain wrong.

 

[Pdawg]

Just to echo Monitor, beyond the sleeve length, I would never screw around with a jacket's dimensions. Once you start shortening a jacket the proportions are thrown off and it can start to look boxy or, at worse, just plain wrong.

Man you guys are all awesome and know what you are talking about. I think i have the leather jacketitis and cant stop looking at jackets now!

 

[Pdawg]

Man you guys are all awesome and know what you are talking about. I think i have the leather jacketitis and cant stop looking at jackets now!

Are there any guidelines in determing bottom width fit like there are for pit to pit (chest + 4"/2)? I meant for tight, average and loose fit bottom?

Thanks again!

 

[Technonut]

I've been buying leather jackets for many years now, and still get confused over shoulder measurements. My shoulders actually measure-out to 20", but it seems that when I've ordered the 20" measurement, I most always end-up with some shoulder-droop. I recently picked-up a nice, 2nd-hand, Good Wear Rough Wear W535–AC–18091 A-2. Despite my actual 20" shoulder measurement, the RW's 19.5" shoulders fall just right, with no droop, as I was hoping when purchased.... On the other hand, a custom-made A-2 I commissioned had 20" shoulders, and enough droop to warrant a drastic hot-water / dryer treatment.

Granted, these were two entirely different A-2 contracts / patterns, but goes to show me that there is more working behind the pattern scene than raw, physical measurements can provide at times..

 

[MRB1248]

I am one who would argue that shoulder width makes a huge difference. I have purchased three jackets, the first which fit in the shoulders but was so big in the body, the second which fits in the body but I can barely get a t-shirt under it, and a third that I asked for the shoulders to be widened from 18 to 20 inches in order to fit. The third fits and I can actually move in it. I don't really like the way it's built because it's made for riding, and I was looking for a jacket I can wear on the trails, but it is built exactly as I had asked. (Yeah, I've already ordered another with a slightly wider chest already, so my existing will be hitting the classifieds once I get the photos taken.)

 

[Pdawg]

Yeah it doesnt appear to be a science.....that is weird that you need a shoulder width that is less than measured size....maybe your shoulder slopes downward?

 

[Monitor]

Really, it's more complex than just width. Sleeve holes might be straight or angled or facing forward or whatever, and all of this will affect the distance between the seams where the sleeves connects to the body of the jacket - which is what most people consider to be "shoulder width". While in reality it doesn't really matter much how far apart the sleeves are. Take motorcycle jackets for example. Most have angled, forward facing sleeves so naturally, the distance between the shoulder seams if measured from the back will be greater than on I don't know, a Half-belt. But that doesn't mean the entire jacket is wider around the shoulders! So it's best not to get into this because what you might consider shoulder width may not be how the maker goes about it.

Not every style is meant to fit every person. Most quality makers have the shoulders nailed down. It works for most people but if they appear too wide or too constrictive, I would suggest looking into another style altogether instead of altering the shoulders. My posture isn't all too straight so moto style jackets generally fit me fine even off the bike, but the HWM that I had, while having the same shoulder width as any of my CR's, had some serious shoulder droop on me.