Shirt collar shapes in the UK...

[Edward]

A lot of gentleman's outfitters here in the centre of London are in sale mode at the moment, obivously ahead of the new autumn collections coming in. My eye has been caught by a lot of rather expensive (and very nice) shirts marked down to a third of their regular price in said sales. The "problem" seems to be that they are all either a button/ convertable cuff with what I would call a regular collar, or french cuffs with a very open cutaway collar (I'm sure i'm using the wrong terminology here, but hopefully you understand my meanning). Has anyone seen a "regular" collar with a french cuff anywhere? The French cuffs have become a must for me, but I very definitely prefer a collar that isn't cut so folded down it could almost pass for wings...

 

[Miss Sis]

Edward, the attack of the 'spread collar' is everywhere.

Mr Ben Stephens curses it constantly. We'll let you know if we find anything, however we have pretty much come to the conclusion that I will have to make him some shirts in order to get the collar, etc that he wants.

I have a pattern for his size and he has been practicing cutting collars so a trial is now required!

 

[BellyTank]

...wait 'til you see the "new" tiny collars then.
Poo!

B
T

 

[StanleyVanBuren]

I have never understood the aversion to the spread collar on this forum.

But yes, London is probably the wrong place to look for non-spread collar men's shirts. I can only suggest maybe Debenham's, because IIRC, they carry Van Heusen, who make straight and point collar shirts.

But I always thought the spread collar was part of what made the Jermyn street shirts great.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I have never understood the aversion to the spread collar on this forum.

Ditto, Stanley! :eusa_clap

.

 

[Orgetorix]

Which of these is closest to what you mean by a "regular" collar?

I would classify these as moderate spread, medium spread, forward point, and cutaway, respectively.

Brooks Brothers, in the US, has shirts with styles 1, 3, and 4 that have French cuffs.

 

[cookie]

That Number 2 collar is still the prevailing species of the virus in Sydney good shirt shops like Baubridge and Kay.

 

[Alan Eardley]

Would you believe it?

When I was in China recently I visited a factory that was making shirts for a number of popular US and European 'brands'. I was surprised to find that one style in production had more of a pointed collar, with the points closer, than number 3 in the post above. When I expressed interest, the guy who was showing me around pulled one off the production line and gave it to me to keep. Guess what the label is?

Wrangler.

Alan

 

[Edward]

Which of these is closest to what you mean by a "regular" collar?

I would classify these as moderate spread, medium spread, forward point, and cutaway, respectively.

Brooks Brothers, in the US, has shirts with styles 1, 3, and 4 that have French cuffs.

1 or 3 look like what I'd call "regular" - 4 seems to be the only thing that is available with a French cuff over here at present. I don't dislike it per se, I have a couple, I'd just rather have something less cutaway. I tend to associate the full cutaway with the city-boy / footballer look - very cutaway collar, tie with a knot the size of yer fist.... I'm planning to gradually replace all my suits with 30s style lounge suits, so I'd prefer to buy my suits to go with that. May have to resort to mail order...

 

[Jovan]

Three words: Online custom shirts.

I'm not very sold on Brooks Brothers quality as of late, personally.

 

[Topper]

Why not try http://www.jpreid.co.uk ?

Get to choose your style.

 

[Benny Holiday]

I have never understood the aversion to the spread collar on this forum.

Here in Sydney, as Cookie has pointed out, it's not so much the spread collar's existence as the fact that it is the only collar available here with French Cuffs, and has been for at least 6 or 7 years now. A bit of variety, please, Pelaco, Van Heusen, and Whitmont!

 

[Edward]

Here in Sydney, as Cookie has pointed out, it's not so much the spread collar's existence as the fact that it is the only collar available here with French Cuffs, and has been for at least 6 or 7 years now. A bit of variety, please, Pelaco, Van Heusen, and Whitmont!

I've discovered that to be the case here in London - at least, anywhere I can afford to buy a shirt, anyhow! I'm not one of those folks who can afford to drop fifty plus pounds on one shirt, alas. Maybe it's partly dictated by tie fashion - the thing for the last few years seems to have been a return to fist-sized knots, whixh I really don't care for. Maybe that itself has come abouyt as a reaction to how long ties are nowadays. I'll often tie a tie with a slightly larger knot than I'd prefer simply to avoid it hanging down too long. There's little I hate more than a tie with the end hanging below the belt - I prefer a good inch of clearance. I've actually considered having ties I like but that are long shortened so I can avoid that easier. A wider splayed collar facilitates a fatter tie knot, though, so maybe that's part of the reason for this trend.

Jovan, it looks like online will be my only option...

Topper - thanks for the link - 3 for £99 is a lot better than I've seen anywhere for a long time, I'll be sure to check that out once I've assessed the present state of the Marlowe shirt wardrobe and cleared out what needs to go!

 

[Jovan]

Why not try http://www.jpreid.co.uk ?

Get to choose your style.

I'm a little put off by a "cotton mix" being the fabric at 90USD/shirt. :-/

I forget the name of it, but there's a nice shirt maker based out of Hong Kong of whom Style Forum advocates highly. EDIT: Jantzen Tailor is the name! They're roughly $45 a shirt I think.

Other options are of course Baron Boutique, Magnoli Clothiers, MyTailor, MySuitShop/MyCustomTailor/etc. group.

 

[Edward]

Thanks, I'll check those out too.

 

[Alan Eardley]

I'm a little put off by a "cotton mix" being the fabric at 90USD/shirt. :-/

I forget the name of it, but there's a nice shirt maker based out of Hong Kong of whom Style Forum advocates highly. EDIT: Jantzen Tailor is the name! They're roughly $45 a shirt I think.

They have a shop in Central which I visit when in HK. I don't doubt the quality of their work, and their ability to be 'trendy', but I wouldn't expect them to make a vintage style shirt.

What tended to put me off was a salesman's statement that they made shirts 'like Thomas Pink, but cheaper'. Well, yes, but...

Alan

 

[Jovan]

If you want someone to test the waters of that statement... I'm sure someone here would be glad to.