Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[Miss 1929]

I made both versions of the past patterns skirt. I am 5'5" and they are a bit shorter on me than I would like. And I think it makes them look more modern. If I make them again I will lengthen them. If I can find the pictures I took I will post them.

That is really useful to know that they run short! Early 30s skirts are typically even longer than that looks in the sketch. The correct early 30s length is about halfway between your ankle bone and the fattest part of the calf.

But I do love that seam, so will probably buy that pattern at some point.

 

[SweetieStarr]

Help with 50s shorts

Hi Ladies,

I am currently working on a pair of 50s shorts from this pattern: http://www.tias.com/7392/PictPage/1922856522.html

I am using a cotton fabric that has a slight stretch. The pattern size I bought was about an inch or so small in the waist and hip, so cut the fabric a bit bigger than the pattern. So far, the shorts were too big when I started sewing the side seams together, so I just made about a 1" seam instead of 5/8. However, the shorts are still big and are bloomery underneath the darts/above the crotch. The inseam is also crooked because of taking in the sides and not the center seams. I thought of taking in the center seams also, but am afraid that might not be correct.

Can anyone advise me as to where to take it in more to make the shorts smaller in size and reduce the bloomery effect in the front and back? I can post pics if needed.

Thanks all.

 

[Lauren]

I think I know what you're talking about. Have you checked the crotch length? Sometimes if the crotch is too long and the hips are too big it can have that effect. If the crotch length is too long you might have to cut another pair. Vintage shorts and pants are so wonky to sew because the fit was so different!
Don't know if that helps, but best of luck!

 

[SweetieStarr]

I think I know what you're talking about. Have you checked the crotch length? Sometimes if the crotch is too long and the hips are too big it can have that effect. If the crotch length is too long you might have to cut another pair. Vintage shorts and pants are so wonky to sew because the fit was so different!
Don't know if that helps, but best of luck!

Thanks, Lauren. The hips are definitely too big, so I keep trying to take them in but the poof hasn't gone away. I will check the crotch. It seemed a bit big, but not giant. I don't have enough fabric to cut another. Do you think I could just alter what I have? It seems like when I join the crotch together, one side is a center seam and the other side is a side seam. It looks correct, but that combination sounds weird to me.

Do you think taking in the center seam would also help this problem or not?

 

[Lauren]

Hi!
I don't know... maybe you could try it! I've taken in center seams of things before and then tapered them down to nothing around the crotch curve. Maybe if you post a picture we could help better? Sorry your shorts are giving you such trouble
(HA! that kind of sounds funny... but I think I know what kind of shorts I mean...)

 

[MarieAnne]

SweetieStarr - Do you have a petite figure? I'm built like a bean pole and I find that front darts give me a pouch. I always omit then and take up any slack in the side seam.

 

[goldwyn girl]

I am about to start this, has anyone made it up. Long sleeve jacket and skirt.
Thoughts ???

 

[Lady Day]

Go by finished garment measurements. Those repo patterns add monster ease.

LD

 

[goldwyn girl]

Lady Day, I know! what are they thinking. I made up something a while back, can't remember now what and when I tried it on for the first fitting hubby asked me how many people was I making it for lol

 

[Lauren]

I don't know how that one is, but I've made up other repros in the past from Butterick and Vogue and not only did they add monster ease, but they lowered the armholes a lot! One of the first vintage dresses I made was from those Butterick reprints in the 90s and I couldn't even lift my arms to dance!

 

[goldwyn girl]

Thanks Lauren, I will note that down. Must be able to lift arms !

 

[Sickofitcindy]

Goldwyn Girl,
I have made both the skirt and the jacket. Other than paying attention to the amount of ease, I found the pattern went together easily.

 

[Inky]

I have made the pants and i love them - i did have to take the waist in a bit but aside from that they went together very well. I want to make the skirt in denim as well. I think it could be "westernized" fairly easily

 

[kamikat]

I am about to start this, has anyone made it up. Long sleeve jacket and skirt.
Thoughts ???

I've made several of the skirt. Make sure the waist is quite snug or it won't stay up and will slip down your hips. Use something that is soft and drapey or it won't hang right.

 

[goldwyn girl]

Thank you ladies for all your input. I am using this fabric and it is soft and should drape well.

 

[MarieAnne]

I 'm trying to make this blouse with the PatternMaster software.

What do you guys see? Unfortunately this is the only picture I have.

It looks to me like the only dart on the bodice is a side dart which is gathered. There may be a french dart.

 

[palespider]

sorry if its been asked before but
for someone with very beginners skill in sewing, how crazy would it be to try and size up a pattern and how close do i need the orginal pattern to be?

im a 46ish bust
41 waist
47ish hip

 

[Smuterella]

I'm planning on making a skirt from the other of the Repro patterns (3688), and was looking at the finished garment measurements to determine which size. Only issue is the finished garmet memasurements don't include the waist measurement. Do I just measure each of the pattern pieces for the skirt and add together? Or measure the waistband piece?

Sorry - total novice here!

 

[Lauren]

palespider, for beginner sewers it's probably better to only mess with pattern grading that's two inches smaller, unless you're more technically minded. I know I wasn't when I started sewing! If you're that close you can usually just add a bit at the sideseams but when you start getting two or more sizes smaller you have to redraft the pieces. Here's a great article about it:
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4368/making-sense-of-pattern-grading

Smuterella, measure across the waists of the pieces and subtract the seam allowance and dart width. Give yourself a little extra ease- you don't want it your exact measurement because you need to allow for the extra fabric from the seams at the sides and the waistband. Depending on the thickness of your fabric 1/2" should do it.

 

[kamikat]

I hate to disagree with such an accomplished seamstress, but palespider, I have the same measurements as you, except a little smaller in the waist. The size you pick is dependent on your high bust. right under the armpits. The hardest part to fit is your neck/shoulder areas. Patterns are generally drafted for a B-C cup bust. If you are larger than a B-C cup, then a pattern that fits your full bust will be too big in the shoulder area. It also depends on the particular style of pattern. If it's a full skirt, you don't have to worry about the hip size. If it's a straight, 20's style, you don't have to worry about waist size, ect. The first step, is to determine your high bust, then pick a style. Another option is to start with modern re-print patterns and cheap, ugly fabric. These cost less money and you won't be nervous about cutting them up. Sizes (by measurement) haven't changed. Sure, a vintage size 16 isn't the same as a modern 16, but a vintage size 38in is the same as a modern size 38in. Get used to looking at inches rather than size.
Don't be afraid to ask questions!