Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[Lauren]

I've got a simple newbie question for you advanced gals:

I'm a 1930s/40s size 18. I've upsized both 14s and 16s to meet my sizing needs. I just want to know how many inches I would need to add to upsize a 12? Thanks.

I think the easiest way is to look at the back of the envelope and see how many inches it is off of your measurements. You'll need to add a little in the width of the shoulder as well as the sideseam, probably. Maybe the neck, too, if it's fitted. Hope that helps

 

[Amy Jeanne]

I think the easiest way is to look at the back of the envelope and see how many inches it is off of your measurements. You'll need to add a little in the width of the shoulder as well as the sideseam, probably. Maybe the neck, too, if it's fitted. Hope that helps

Uhhhhhh

lol -- my friend Heathyr told me to add 1/4 of an inch on the sides and sleeves for a 16 and 1/2 inch for a 14.

And it worked perfectly. I don't know of this math you speak of!! lol. Thanks anyway -- I'll try to figure it out!

 

[jetgirl]

Uhhhhhh

lol -- my friend Heathyr told me to add 1/4 of an inch on the sides and sleeves for a 16 and 1/2 inch for a 14.

And it worked perfectly. I don't know of this math you speak of!! lol. Thanks anyway -- I'll try to figure it out!

Then to use your friend's method; add a 3/4 of an inch to the sides and sleeves for a 12. Make a muslin first, because the larger the amount you add, the more it can distort a pattern if it is not spread evenly among correct points of the item.

 

[SayCici]

jetgirl, thank you!! I figured looking for a similar pattern from the 70s would be my best bet!

 

[Amy Jeanne]

Then to use your friend's method; add a 3/4 of an inch to the sides and sleeves for a 12. Make a muslin first, because the larger the amount you add, the more it can distort a pattern if it is not spread evenly among correct points of the item.

I will try that. And why don't I think of these things??? :eusa_doh:

 

[Lauren]

It's not really that bad. I'm math dumb and I can do it, too
This Threads article is great. Just look at the picture if the directions are confusing. You can trace you pattern pieces, then draw a straight line where it needs to get bigger. Cut along that line and tape it to a piece of paper. Then draw a line with your clear ruler the amount you want to make it bigger from the cut edge of that piece. Match the other cut off piece to that line. Ta da! Bigger pattern
you shouldn't have to add more than 1/4" to the shoulder and maybe 1/8 to the neck, but that's just a guess. So if you need 3/4 to make it bigger, just do 1/2" at the side seam and 1/4" down from the shoulder (and leave the neck out if it doesn't close up tight) and it evens things out Don't forget to add the same to your sleeve on both sides!

 

[Idledame]

I use the quick reference chart from that threads article. http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4424/quick-reference-for-cut-and-spread-pattern-grading
I printed it out it and it's a breeze after you've used it once or twice. Especially if you have the cardboard cutting board I mentioned at the top of this page.

 

[kamikat]

Ladies, I've fallen for another tiny pattern. I knew from experience that size 12 (30inBust) does not grade up easily to a plus size.

The skirt will be easy to make from another skirt pattern, but I can't find the jacket anywhere else. Do you think this might be a good start to the jacket? Now I need to find a collar.

 

[Miss 1929]

I have just the thing!

Ladies:

See the two halter blouses with the drawstrings? Please tell me there is a way to recreate this without needing a pattern I probably couldn't afford if one ever did show up.

You can see it here too, on the left:

I am crazy about this look and need to recreate it!

I have a book that shows how do do this from a basic blouse pattern - where to slash the pattern and spread it to make this happen. I will dig it out and post pics.

 

[SayCici]

Ooh, thank you Miss 1929! That's great of you!

 

[crwritt]

Easy sewing project with a vintage look

I think this little vest is just adorable, and will probably be making one
for evening wear.
I would love to find a dotted black and white woven through fabric to make it!
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/11045/circular-vest

 

[Lauren]

That's pretty cute. I think I'd add ties, if it were me. Looks like it would slip off of your shoulders easily if it's cut on a circle.
Fun project! If you make it post a picture

 

[Tallulah]

Yes. Terribly. And it leads to an even worse addiction. . .pattern buying.

...ah... this also can lead to an even worse addiction.... "somedayi'llusethisandohmygoshisntitloveley" fabric purchases.

 

[SayCici]

Which is a better skirt pattern to build my 30s wardrobe? I'm usually in the middle of the decade.

Or this one from Past Patterns? The second one is supposed to be from 1930-31, but I like gored skirts! I just don't know if the shape will be right. I really like the first one!

 

[Lauren]

Ooh... I really like the second one. Both are good, though

 

[Miss 1929]

The second one is much more mid to late 30s. The first one is great (especially for early 30s), but the curved seam might fight with other items you wear it with more.

 

[Lauren]

Yeah... some of the dates on that site are pretty off. Don't always take their word for when the repro patterns are from. lol I've bought a lot of repros from them, though- they have some really neat patterns on there- especially the 1910s ones.

 

[SayCici]

Miss 1929, thanks so much for your input!! Most of my blouses are pretty plain basics but you make a good point! I was originally planning if I got the pattern to make it in a print - which would probably make the curved seam less noticeable/distracting but then.. why use that pattern if the main feature won't be prominent? lol

 

[deadpandiva]

Which is a better skirt pattern to build my 30s wardrobe? I'm usually in the middle of the decade.

Or this one from Past Patterns? The second one is supposed to be from 1930-31, but I like gored skirts! I just don't know if the shape will be right. I really like the first one!

I made both versions of the past patterns skirt. I am 5'5" and they are a bit shorter on me than I would like. And I think it makes them look more modern. If I make them again I will lengthen them. If I can find the pictures I took I will post them.

 

[SayCici]

DPD, that'd be great! Thanks!