Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[Lolly B]

Thanks Snookie!

I suspected every negative that you cited.

Fortunately, like you I have a bunch of different interfacings, fusible and non. Its funny but I never used to preshrink my interfacing (or any of my notions for that matter) until I completely botched a blouse. I got the dreaded bubbles where the interfacing shrank A LOT after I washed it. I was so mad at myself. So now I always preshrink everything - just in case.

 

[Lady Day]

What should I make with this?

I have 2 1/2 yards (45" wide I believe) of this light blue denim. Its a great weight, but Im not sure what to make with it. I could do some capris, or something like that, but I try to avoid light denim on my bum, if you know what I mean . But it COULD work.... A jacket perhaps?

Ideas ladies?

LD

 

[ShooShooBaby]

I have 2 1/2 yards (45" wide I believe) of this light blue denim. Its a great weight, but Im not sure what to make with it. I could do some capris, or something like that, but I try to avoid light denim on my bum, if you know what I mean . But it COULD work.... A jacket perhaps?

Ideas ladies?

LD

a skirt with patch pockets, red topstitching and a kick-pleat in the front center!

 

[Lady Day]

For me or you

LD

 

[ShooShooBaby]

For me or you

LD

your fabric, your labor, your skirt! lol

 

[Darhling]

Wasn't sure where to post this, but I need help finding a fabric from an online store! I have been searching through Malmö's fabric stores for a while now, but can't find what I need.

I want to make a dress similar to this one from stop staring.

I want to make it is some sort of satin or similar fabric with a sheen to it, the flowers can be blue or red. I have a pattern that I can alter a tiny bit to match the dress, but need the fabric. Has anyone seen something similar?

 

[Darhling]

I hope someone can answer me quickly since I am in the process of making this dress now and is eager to finish it. I am making Butterick retro pattern 6582 view B and according to their measurements on the package I should be a patternsize 16 for the pattern. BUT on the pattern itself is the final measurements of how big the dress will be finished (body measurements + design ease + wear ease) and there the size 16 is way to big for me, the dress will end up being about 5-6 inches bigger than each of my body measurements! I have been told that normally you add an inch to your body measurements if you want it to be fitted and if I do that, then a size 12 is good, but still too big on the hips..

Edit : I am making the dress in some thin silksatin, so the fabric doesn't seem to bulk at all.

what to do?!

 

[Lady Day]

Most modern patterns have finished garment measurments (generally written on the pattern pieces) compaired to the person measurements on the pattern envelope. If you want a tighter fit, go by those instead. But keep in mind how the garment is suppose to fit (drapy or loose) if you are looking for a true vintage fit. If not, then do what you like!

I find often the 'retro' patterns are made way to big to begin with.

LD

 

[Darhling]

Most modern patterns have finished garment measurments (generally written on the pattern pieces) compaired to the person measurements on the pattern envelope. If you want a tighter fit, go by those instead. But keep in mind how the garment is suppose to fit (drapy or loose) if you are looking for a true vintage fit. If not, then do what you like!

I find often the 'retro' patterns are made way to big to begin with.

LD

Thank you, do you think that if I go by body measurements + 1 inch it will be too tight? I am going for a fitted look, not loose by any means. But of course not tight.

 

[Rachael]

the amount of ease required varies by garment and fabric (heaven bless whomever invented stretch twill) but this is the chart I go by:

Bust + 2 inches
Waist + 1 inch
Hip + 2 inches


you can get by with less if the fabric is on the bias but otherwise things tend to ride up.

 

[Snookie]

1" is the standard, but because you don't know exactly how the pattern fits and how your fabric will react, I wouldn't cut it out that small yet. Here's what I'd do:

Roughly cut out the tissue pattern pieces, and pin the paper pieces together to try on. This should give you a better idea of which size to choose. Remember, with those multisize patterns you can use a 12 on the bodice and a 10 on the skirt, and just blend at the waistline.

After years of sewing junk that didn't fit, I became a mockup convert. If you're too impatient, and I totally get that, I recommend cutting out your fabric but making the seam allowance at least 1.5"-2" in the crucial areas (side seams, shoulders, center back). That way you can make adjustments, and just trim away the excess. Remember, you can take in more or less in the darts, too.

 

[Smuterella]

OK, i've bought the Simplicity 9621 that Goldwyn Girl used for one of her great hawaiian dresses in the Show us what you made thread, and am eyeing up some lovely hawaiian fabrics online. I have a couple of questions - how much extra fabric do i need to allow for pattern matching? How do I pattern match at all....! eek.

 

[KittyT]

OK, i've bought the Simplicity 9621 that Goldwyn Girl used for one of her great hawaiian dresses in the Show us what you made thread, and am eyeing up some lovely hawaiian fabrics online. I have a couple of questions - how much extra fabric do i need to allow for pattern matching? How do I pattern match at all....! eek.

If it's an overall print, you don't need to worry about pattern matching. You only really have to do this if it's stripes or plaids.

I know you're a beginner sewer - I wouldn't attempt pattern matching if I were you.

 

[ShoreRoadLady]

OK, i've bought the Simplicity 9621 that Goldwyn Girl used for one of her great hawaiian dresses in the Show us what you made thread, and am eyeing up some lovely hawaiian fabrics online. I have a couple of questions - how much extra fabric do i need to allow for pattern matching? How do I pattern match at all....! eek.

I wouldn't worry too much about pattern matching at this point, especially if it's a Hawaiian print. What I *would* do is make sure any large motifs aren't...*ahem*...strategically placed. Like two large flowers right over the bustline, etc. Otherwise I wouldn't stress over it.

As a general rule, small, busy prints don't need matching; it's when you get into the larger motifs that it can be useful.

 

[Sunny]

I wouldn't worry too much about pattern matching at this point, especially if it's a Hawaiian print. What I *would* do is make sure any large motifs aren't...*ahem*...strategically placed. Like two large flowers right over the bustline, etc. Otherwise I wouldn't stress over it.

As a general rule, small, busy prints don't need matching; it's when you get into the larger motifs that it can be useful.

Ditto that. With a big motif, what I do is drape a big length of it, then throw my eyes really out of focus and look at it. That shows me the elements that really pop out. Whether it's a big pink flower or a weird-shaped white space, I know what to keep from being in a strange place.

If it's a larger print, too, I'd make sure that you don't get two big flowers partially overlapping and/or slightly offset from each other. This is mainly important on the bodice. If you lay out the pieces so they're just different from each other - like a big pink flower at the side in on, and on the shoulder on the other - you'll be fine. You don't want to end up with two huge flowers side-by-side, since that really grabs the eye.

 

[Darhling]

Butterick 6582 'retro' dress

I am making this dress, the tight model without the bows, but I am having trouble interpreting how to do the sort of twisted shoulders from the patterndescription. have anyone made this and can explain it better?

 

[Cherry_Bombb]

I didn't twist the shoulders, I believe I gathered them. Then basted into place.

If you google "Butterick retro 6582" there are a whole bunch of sewing communities that are talking about just this pattern.

 

[Darhling]

I didn't twist the shoulders, I believe I gathered them. Then basted into place.

If you google "Butterick retro 6582" there are a whole bunch of sewing communities that are talking about just this pattern.

yeah I don't know what to do.. I am supposed to wear this dress tomorrow if it comes out alright but I am having issues with it still. Ugh.. I can just imagine me finally getting it done and then it looks like crap.

 

[Cherry_Bombb]

Ok, it's relatively simple. Just don't look at the pictures on the directions for a moment- they ARE confusing.

You've already done the darts in the front and back, I'm assuming. Attached the back center between the dots and finished the slit in the back. Put in the zipper?

alright.

From here you are going to take your upper left front piece and gather stitch that shoulder. (piece #3)

Then attach your interfacing to the upper left front FACING (piece #5) Then attach the #5 to #3 (Facing to upper left front piece) right sides together. Stitch only on the armhole side and the neckhole side. Don't worry about leaving the part above the dot open. Just go straight down that seam.

Turn right side out. (I know it says to understitch here, but if you aren't familiar w/ understitching it's not a totally necessary thing to do)

Baste to the front of the dress as shown.

Attach your interfacing to the wrong side of your front facing (piece #6)

Turn under the bottom edge of #6 and finish that raw edge.

If you haven't already, gather stitch the right shoulder of the front of the dress. With the right sides together, attach the front facing to the front of the dress- be certain that the left front piece that you just attached is BETWEEN the facing and the front of the dress- as in the picture.

Turn right side out.

Press everything really well here. Make sure that you've pulled all of that extra fabric out of the seams while you press it.

Attach the back facings as shown. This part is simple- don't worry!

You're almost done- it's looking like a completed dress at this point.

Gather up those front shoulders so that they are even in width to the back shoulders. In the back shoulders, fold your seam allowance into that little tube you've created. Press. Insert the front shoulder into that tube only the amount of the seam allowance. Hand stitch into place.

You'll get it done- no problem. You've only got about an hours worth of work left to go!

 

[Darhling]

I am finally done!! I altered it a lot, since I wanted it to be a one shoulder dress and the fabric is this thin, flowy, silk like fabric, so I didn't make the interfacings.. I think it looks cute though! I know lots of other people could have made it a 100 times better, but I am proud of it. Now, I have to make sure it passes the 'camera flash' test, since I am going to a wedding tomorrow. I would hate for it to turn out sheer in the flashes!!