Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[Lotus Leroux]

I use pinking shears for cutting out the material if the material frays easily. I have used it when cutting out wools and it helps a lot. Several years ago I did not own a pair and one day when I was cutting out some wool fabric it kept unravelling and I was getting so frustrated. So off to Joann I went to buy the pinking shears!

 

[deadpandiva]

I am not sure if this is the proper place for this question. I wanted to make the short sleeved dress but I am afraid it will look to 80's. I am wondering what you lovely ladies think and what fabrics/prints would keep it looking vintage? I thought senquense or beading along the neckline and a solid color like green would be nice.

Thanks

 

[deadpandiva]

I've seen this suggested in sewing magazines, to take the work out of clipping curves, but that's just an alternate use someone came up with.

I seem to remember Lotus Leroux saying that she cuts out fabric with pinking shears sometimes. That seemed smart to me -- I'd probably cut it with scissors, then pink around each piece, making 3x more work for myself!

That's what I did this weekend. I wish I would have seen this before I started cutting.

 

[Snookie]

I am not sure if this is the proper place for this question. I wanted to make the short sleeved dress but I am afraid it will look to 80's. I am wondering what you lovely ladies think and what fabrics/prints would keep it looking vintage? I thought senquense or beading along the neckline and a solid color like green would be nice.

Thanks

Wow, I can't believe that pattern is still in print! My girlfriend and I both made up that pattern years ago, must have been 8 or more years. It's a fabulous pattern, though, so I'm not surprised. Goes together like a dream.

I used the short slv version, too, for a vintage-y look. I think I made butterfly slvs, though, instead. I used a red rayon hawaiian print, draped like a dream. Wore it to death, wish I could get more.

You can get trims that sandwich in the seam like piping, that might be easy to do at the neckline. Beaded ones and everything. Rhinestone dress clips would be a nice touch, too.

I'd use a lightweight fabric that drapes well. A solid color with trim is always safe, good prints are so hard to find unless you want polka dots or gingham (ok, that's not a print...) Just be careful that the waist is high enough - apparently that's the dead giveaway that it's a modern pattern!

 

[deadpandiva]

^ Thanks so much. Do You know where I can get the trim or do you have an example of what it might look like? Should the waist hit at the belly button?

 

[dakotanorth]

Shortfall of pinking?

Pinking is a cost-effective way to finish an edge, no doubt!
Keep in mind though, you have to iron/press around it when you press the garment; otherwise you get the "Sharktooth" shadow on the outside.
Also some fabrics still don't cooperate, even when they are pinked.
Singer makes the "Tiny Serger" which is $40 new. It is weak, cheap, and usually needs a boost to get through thick stuff, but for $40 it does what it promises- serge! I bought a used one years ago and it still runs.

Speaking of scissors and shears- has anyone checked out the tailor's shears at, say, Michael Levine's?? My god, you feel like you found Excalibur.... :eusa_clap

 

[deadpandiva]

I'll have to check out that Tiny Serger. As A Novice I am abit afraid of serging. I try to keep it simple.

 

[Snookie]

^ Thanks so much. Do You know where I can get the trim or do you have an example of what it might look like? Should the waist hit at the belly button?

http://www.mjtrim.com/Catalog/Category/229.aspx
This is what I had in mind. You just sandwich it between the layers at the stitchline, just like piping.

Check out the other trims on that site, too, they're pretty great.

The waistline on my vintage patterns hits about 3" above my bellybutton, right at my natural waist (told you I was high-waisted!). Don't know if that's a good reference or not -- maybe I'm actually low-bellybuttoned! lol

 

[deadpandiva]

^ Thanks, That trim is great and will save time. I love short cuts.
That web site is dangerous. I now want to put $40.00 trim on all my $10 cardigans.

 

[Josephine]

I forget how to search for retro or vintage patterns on McCall's site. What's a good keyword?

 

[dakotanorth]

New Subject- Vests!

I think it was Wildroot at the Cicada Club wearing his suit separates that got me thinking about vests. Or maybe it was Mark and his 3-piece black suit? Probably both!
Has anyone tried making a vest? Namely, a suit vest; fitted, crisp, with functional pockets? I keep thinking, I can make the pants, I could make the vest, then all I would need is the suit jacket!

 

[pennyseranade]

Wait..go back...

Where did you guys find the tiny serger? I am not finding it online anywhere other than ebay.

 

[dakotanorth]

Singer Tiny Serger

Where did you guys find the tiny serger? I am not finding it online anywhere other than ebay.

I bought mine years ago- I would assume even if they are no longer made, there are some floating around.
Wal-Mart? Jo-Ann's? Michael's or Hobby Lobby?

Again, I have to stress, it is not a fabulous unit by any means; Singer Tiny Serger is to Clothes Making as Crayola is to Artistry.

 

[BettyValentine]

My Mother had great German scissors; and Lord help you if you touched her sewing shears or pinking shears. Didn't remember any problems, but you couldn't get material too close to the join.

Pinking helps keep raw edges from raveling. Or rather from unraveling.

Oh nooooo. No one touches my scissors. When I got my first Gingher wardrobe I went up to my then-fiance and made him sit down while I picked up all the scissors, tied ribbons to their handles, and said "Never, ever use scissors that have a ribbon on the handle. Ever. For anything. There are other scissors in the house, and if you cannot find them you must keep looking for them."

I made a very intense face while doing it, and that seems to have helped it stick. Those things normally don't, but he won't go near the scissors.

And everyone wants to use them! They're so big and shiny, people just seem to want to pick them up and mess with them. Particularly the pinking shears. Those little teeth fascinate people.

Pinking doesn't always work, though. It depends on the fabric. I've been working with cotton and my serger is broken (I think husband dropped it), so I've been pinking everything.

 

[BettyValentine]

Classic Tailoring Techniques by Roberto Cabrera is the undisputed bible on tailoring - can't remember if there's a section on historical styles or not, though. See if your library has it (and other tailoring books!) so you can see if you want to buy it or not.

Janet Arnold books might be useful. Mostly women's styles, though.

http://www.amazon.com/Classic-Tailo...=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1200365176&sr=8-1

Thanks! I picked it up on Amazon and it is just what I was looking for.

 

[Josephine]

Has anyone tried making a vest?

I might try making a low cut vest to go under a dinner jacket, using this pattern:

 

[dakotanorth]

Rock on!

Thanks! I picked it up on Amazon and it is just what I was looking for.

I have that book too! Found it used, I think through Half.com?? It also had a photocopy of Pants Making Techniques stuck in the middle! They help a bit, but the book is still "The Source."

 

[Snookie]

dakotanorth, now's the perfect time to make a vest! There so in right now, in the general world and even more in the dance scene. Look formal without getting overheated! (Sure, sure, I know the guys try to claim that jackets get in the way, but we all know the truth.)

We've looked at a couple high-cut vests on the market recently (Target and Express), and though they used good fabrics, it's still obvious to a discerning eye that they're modern, b/c they have low armholes and they're slightly long. So I'd look out for those things if you use a modern pattern - raise the armholes, and raise the waist and hem.

Other than that, the only tricky thing I see about a vest is welt pockets. Those get me every time. Must practice.

 

[Snookie]

Thanks! I picked it up on Amazon and it is just what I was looking for.

I'm so glad it's helpful! I've read the Men's and Women's versions, but never been disciplined enough to go through it step by step.

I've got a question for you, BV - I seem to remember a long time ago you talking about sending skirts to a professional pleater? I'd really love to make a crystal pleated skirt, do you think there are places that would set in the pleats chemically for me, and be willing to only do 1 or 2? Do you have any experience with that, or was it something different? Thanks!

 

[hotrod_elf]

Pattern Grading

Man I just went through this whole thread. I'm trying to find sites or "How to" on pattern grading. I just picked up some patterns that are about one size too small. Can anybody send me in the right direction?

I just looked on Lady Day's new web site and saw she has the way she does it. That might help. Thank you LD