Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[Lady Day]

On the one vintage pattern I've done so far(size 32 bust M5226) I used the instructions here: http://sensibility.com/tips/how-to-resize-a-pattern/
to grade up one size and then did a FBA. I admit I did the FBA without even measuring since I always have to do one on modern patterns.

Now I had fitting ISSUES doing that and I think on redoing it I can leave out the FBA and just grade it up. But grading it up using that tutorial it made the neckline a lot wider than I wanted (slashing in the middle and adding width). Granted this probably isn't the best pattern to judge since the neckline is wide anyway but it seems it would make any neckline wider. Or am I doing something wrong? It seems like I must be since if it made the neckline too wide then people wouldn't do it that way.

If I'm not doing it wrong then any helpful tips for me? I was thinking adding to the sides and then doing a FBA might be better? I have been thinking about this too much and have driven myself nuts so I'm turning to you.

Youve had major fit issues before, right? Ever think of cutting out all the drama and making a dress form? I didnt have one for years, then I did the duct tape thing and its the best thing Ive ever done! Im converted!

From that I made slopers, and now Im confident Im not shooting a dart in the dark for fit on every new pattern I try.

Its a few weeks of work, but could save you years of trial and error.

LD

 

[ShoreRoadLady]

On the one vintage pattern I've done so far(size 32 bust M5226) I used the instructions here: http://sensibility.com/tips/how-to-resize-a-pattern/
to grade up one size and then did a FBA. I admit I did the FBA without even measuring since I always have to do one on modern patterns.

Now I had fitting ISSUES doing that and I think on redoing it I can leave out the FBA and just grade it up. But grading it up using that tutorial it made the neckline a lot wider than I wanted (slashing in the middle and adding width). Granted this probably isn't the best pattern to judge since the neckline is wide anyway but it seems it would make any neckline wider. Or am I doing something wrong? It seems like I must be since if it made the neckline too wide then people wouldn't do it that way.

If I'm not doing it wrong then any helpful tips for me? I was thinking adding to the sides and then doing a FBA might be better? I have been thinking about this too much and have driven myself nuts so I'm turning to you.

With the caveat that I am no grading expert, I have to say that I don't like the way the author of that tutorial slashes and spreads the pattern through the neckline. Yes, you need it if you're grading up multiple sizes, but not for just one size! As you found out, that creates an enormous neckline.

If it were me, I don't think I'd make that third split (the one that goes through the neckline) at all. Instead, I'd add the extra width to the other two splits. Then, if you need to, you can make your FBA.

 

[Christi.adell]

Christi, I never slash! I've tried it a few times and it always made a very poor fitting pattern. It all depends on your body shape. I also never add length. Again, depends on your body shape. I can grade my patterns from a size 34 bust to a 46bust just by adding to the side seams, nowhere else, because that's all I need. However, I am short, high waisted, small boned and narrow shouldered. If you are tall, broad shouldered,or heavy boned, you might need to slash and spread. The best way to learn how to grade for YOUR body is to get a bunch of cheap fabric and make test garments.

Oh AWESOME. I think this might work for me as well. I'm many of those things too I'll definitly give this one a try. Trying to slash and spread it such a tiny amount was giving me a major headache. I was just worried adding just to the side seams would do something weird to the pattern. Thank you!

Also: Thank you ShoreRoadLady. I'm glad I wasn't just doing something wrong since I just couldn't figure it out following those directions. I only tried that way because I saw it listed on many etsy patterns as the way to grade up or down. So I appreciate your input as well.

 

[Smuterella]

How do I get started with using patterned fabric - I picked up some great wool check at a second hand store the other day and have a jacket I'd like to try and make but am not sure how to get it all to line up....

 

[kamikat]

I was just worried adding just to the side seams would do something weird to the pattern. Thank you!

I'll be honest and say it doesn't work with every pattern. If the garment has pintuck or intricate design elements, weird pieces, it can distort the look. If you are new to grading, stick with very plain designs until you get comfortable with it.

 

[Christi.adell]

Youve had major fit issues before, right? Ever think of cutting out all the drama and making a dress form? I didnt have one for years, then I did the duct tape thing and its the best thing Ive ever done! Im converted!

From that I made slopers, and now Im confident Im not shooting a dart in the dark for fit on every new pattern I try.

Its a few weeks of work, but could save you years of trial and error.

LD

I actually just made one! (after I made that pattern). I finally got my husband to help me with it. It is pretty awesome though it's taking some getting used to. I'm totally self taught and with a busy little one I probably create more drama than neccessary late at night when I get a minute to sew lol

So basically you made slopers and then you compare your patterns against it and go from there?

 

[FraeuleinBerlin]

OK, I'm a sewing novice and I have some very confused questions:

First of all, what material do you girls normally make your samples in? A friend of mine doing his fashion diploma says they make everything up in calico first, but some other suggestions would be useful as well.

With regards to the yardage given on the back: you know the widths of material it gives (45", 60" etc.), is it vital that you buy that type of material? Or is that just to show how much you will need? I have a variety of patterns but was hoping just to buy a big roll of material for all of them. BUT they have different widths (and lots of them have a variety of widths) written on the back.

Thank you!

 

[crwritt]

OK, I'm a sewing novice and I have some very confused questions:

First of all, what material do you girls normally make your samples in? A friend of mine doing his fashion diploma says they make everything up in calico first, but some other suggestions would be useful as well.

With regards to the yardage given on the back: you know the widths of material it gives (45", 60" etc.), is it vital that you buy that type of material? Or is that just to show how much you will need? I have a variety of patterns but was hoping just to buy a big roll of material for all of them. BUT they have different widths (and lots of them have a variety of widths) written on the back.

Thank you!

Test garments are made of any inexpensive fabric with similar weight and stretch as the finished garment. Plain cotton muslin works well, and you can buy it cheaply by the bolt. Since it is white, it is easy to mark on .The chart on the back of the pattern lets you know how much yardage you will need.
The layout charts show how to arrange the pattern pieces on the various widths.
You can buy any width of fabric, but for the sake of economy and easy layout, wider is better. If you have the choice of 45 or 60 inch fabric at the same price, go ahead and get the 60".

 

[Black Dahlia]

I would trace it out on pattern paper (I use cheap plastic drop cloth for painting) and add extra in the waist. I do that with my vintage patterns so I don't have to cut them, but I always have to bring the waist up a couple inches because I'm so short. if you're cutting the pattern, draw right on the paper. you may want to make a test out of muslin or something cheap to make sure you've added right. takes a lot of time though, I don't always like to

That is an excellent idea HepKitty! I will test the alteration out first on practice fabric. I just measured the pattern, and actually the waist is about 6 inches larger than the back flap indicated. So I probably won't have to enlarge the waist afterall. Still, going to test it out first.

X
BD

 

[Goldelfe]

I'm trying to figure out how to sew a hooded cape for fall and winter.
But I can't seem to find a pattern for a short cape (just over my shoulders) in that 'Little Red Riding Hood' style.

Would you think some sort of rounded trapezoid (kinda.... 2thirds of a donut) + hood could work?

Do I need to say that I'm a total newbie at sewing?

Thanks in advance

 

[MarieAnne]

Check the costumes section of sewing pattern companies.

 

[shebagrl]

don't know if this has been posted or not (or if there is a better place to post this) but here is a link for a shop in Bozeman MT (my lovely Aunt Norma sent me a newspaper article about it) and there should be some stuff we in the lounge would appreciate

http://reproductionfabrics.com/

I like how it's broken into time periods...

Thanks for the link...so many darling fabrics! Bozeman's such a pretty town. I visited there once 13 years ago and have always wanted to go back.

 

[HepKitty]

no problem. yes Bozeman is nice, I have friends there that I really should visit again sometime soon...

 

[velvetongue]

Using slopers to fit pattern?

I recently made a bodice and skirt sloper and was wondering how to use them to fit existing patterns. Sorry if this question sounds rudimentary, but do you just lay the sloper over the pattern pieces to see if they fit? I still find myself measuring pattern pieces flat and making a muslin just in case.

 

[Lady Day]

Check this article from Threads Magazine.

LD

 

[Christi.adell]

Check this article from Threads Magazine.

LD

That's awesome. Thank you for posting that.

 

[velvetongue]

Thank you, LadyDay!

 

[velvetongue]

Raising armscye/armhole in bodice?

I'm currently working on my second version of this pattern and I need to raise the armscye (armhole depth) by about an inch. Usually when I do this I take up the shoulder seams, but this has a saddle shoulder, which is cut in one piece with the part of the collar, and there is no shoulder seam. Do I just make a tuck in the shoulder piece and redraft? The pieces of the Simplicity pattern kind of look like this: http://www.meladori.com/shesinfashion/2010/07/techniques-the-strap-shoulder/

 

[BoPeep]

Can't wait to see your finished dress, velvetongue. I have that same pattern in my box and haven't tried it yet. Looks like a nice, comfy day dress.

 

[Mrs Cleaver]

HelloI was wondering if any of you lovely ladies could help me? Since it is often quite hard to find dresses in my size i was thinking that if i find a dress in a slightly bigger size i might be able to take it in.A specific example is a dress i found on etsy.I love the pattern , colour & style but it is a few inches too big in the bust & waist.It has darts coming down from the bust to the waist,which is waisted with a full skirt.Would it be difficult to take it in if it has darts? I don't know anything about sewing so i'm sorry if this is a stupid question.The bust would have to come in about 4 inches & the waist about 2 inches.Thanks in advance for any help you can give