Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[bunnyb.gal]

The main challenge Ive found with adapting sleeves to a new creation is the shoulder length of the garment v the sleeves. Look at your pattern picture and see where the shoulder rests on the model. Is it over the curve of the shoulder, right at its edge etc. Generally a lot of that is a 1/2" to 1" difference, and on my crazy body, that makes all the difference in how that sleeve is going to fit my overall torso.

The main spot for adjusting that area of the sleeve Iv found is about 4" down from the top of the sleeve. Too short and the back bodice can pull, too wide, and you can get drapes on the bust.

I have a pattern of sleeves that actually has a mock up shell for the bodice to address this exact issue. Its a great fitting tool.

Vintage patters exclusively sleeves are highly collectible and go for bank (and Ill fight ya for them ), so you might want to look at what you have in your current stash.

Good luck!

LD

Thank you Lady Day, GoddessMama and SugarKitten for helping me make my mind up about modifying that pattern. As a novice, erm, maybe I'll give that a miss for now! And I don't want to be battling with Lady Day, for sure I'd lose ! It's just me wanting to run before I can walk, and being completely frustrated with what I'm seeing (or not seeing) on the high street. One day I'll snag that perfect pattern in the right size...

 

[crwritt]

Style/body type question for all:

I'm sewing a pair of house dresses for my mom. It's the first time she's ever expressed interest in me sewing anything for her, and she says it's the first time anyone's ever sewn anything for her.

Suffice to say, I consider the stakes high.

The first house dress was to her specification, as best as she could give over the phone with no fitting, no input on pattern, etc

I just used a tunic pattern and made it longer, not exactly rocket science.

I have four yards of yellow and white lemon print fabric for house dress 2, and would like to make something a little more figure flattering than the first. My mom has a very different body type than my own, she's plus size (a US 16/18) with not much of a waist and a large chest she'd rather minimize. The house dress has to be loose, esp in the arms/shoulders, and be long enough to cover her knees.

Can anyone come up with something vintagey/flattering that meets these requirements other than a caftan?

A dress with a princess line might suit her.

 

[Fleur De Guerre]

A question for people what sew...

I have a well-loved (by previous owner) 40s seersucker robe that I want to make into a wrap dress and wear and love for many years to come. It has a few small holes and more importantly, places at the armpit where the fabric's gone thin and looks like it might tear if worn dancing etc.

What is the best thing to do? I am going to shorten it a bit (I know, but it will be worth it!) and so I will have fabric to spare. Would it be best to use a fusible interfacing or similar (I've seen some kind of magic powder stuff that you sprinkle on, place a patch on top and iron) and matching fabric to reinforce these areas? I would like to do whatever I can to *prevent* the tearing, rather than have to try and repair it! Any tips appreciated.

 

[Fleur De Guerre]

No one has any advice on reinforcing worn fabric?

 

[MarieAnne]

Hmmm, sounds tricky. I have very little experience with vintage fabric. If it were me, I would use the dress as a template to make a new dress just the way I like.

 

[Drappa]

Depends on how big the areas are, but I often use sticky patches you can buy to repair smaller holes (you can get them in different colours). For the underarm area the reinforcing with interfacing sounds feasible, or maybe you could get a tailor to make a lining for the top?

 

[Fleur De Guerre]

Thanks both... I think I'll give the fusible stuff a go - it's not riskable like it is. I'm sure if I ruin it it'll make a nice skirt...

 

[Lauren]

Fleur, I had a robe I did a similar thing with... I ended up using the extra skirt length to cut and piece a new bodice where mine was really worn. Maybe you could do something similar if you have enough fabric?
http://wearinghistory.blogspot.com/2010/05/make-do-and-mend-big-apple-dress.html

 

[Drappa]

Does anyone know a way to fix very stressed, nearly ripped seams on a silk dress? It has lots of small pintucks in the sleeves and bust and a few gores in the skirt, and looks as though someone squeezed themselves into the dress even though it was much too small. I thought of fusible backing, but since it's silk and can't be ironed too hot I don't know?

 

[Christi.adell]

Ok so I found a cute button down dress at the thrift store the other day. It needs to be shortened (easy) but it also doesn't fit me around the chest (I'm a 34H so things seldom do), it does however fit in the waist and hips.

It has about a 2 inch gap stopping it from closing up top. Is there anyway to fix this without it looking horrible. I sew a bit but I have never really altered something like that. Would just adding to the side seams work ok?

If anyone has any advice or a link to something I would appreciate it. Also it's not a vintage dress, so I'm not destroying anything, it's just cute and I'd like it to fit. If not I'll just donate it back though. Thanks for any help!

 

[Drappa]

Ok so I found a cute button down dress at the thrift store the other day. It needs to be shortened (easy) but it also doesn't fit me around the chest (I'm a 34H so things seldom do), it does however fit in the waist and hips.

It has about a 2 inch gap stopping it from closing up top. Is there anyway to fix this without it looking horrible. I sew a bit but I have never really altered something like that. Would just adding to the side seams work ok?

If anyone has any advice or a link to something I would appreciate it. Also it's not a vintage dress, so I'm not destroying anything, it's just cute and I'd like it to fit. If not I'll just donate it back though. Thanks for any help!

If it has bust darts I have seen people take them out to make the bust a bit bigger.

 

[GoddessMama]

You could release the seam allowances if there are any. I wouldn' t add to the sides as it would risky looking really off and it really won't help the bust much. There is honestly not much you can do to make it fit if there is no seam allowances to release.

 

[Wire9Vintage]

Button holer

At my local thrift store the other day, I spotted a Singer Button Holer complete with case and manual for $!5. Anyone use one of these? Are they worth it? My machine's button holer is OK... just wondering if this little gadget might make life easier. I probably dates to the late 50s, judging from the torquoise plastic space-age looking case it's in.

 

[lareine]

Ok so I found a cute button down dress at the thrift store the other day. It needs to be shortened (easy) but it also doesn't fit me around the chest (I'm a 34H so things seldom do), it does however fit in the waist and hips.

It has about a 2 inch gap stopping it from closing up top. Is there anyway to fix this without it looking horrible. I sew a bit but I have never really altered something like that. Would just adding to the side seams work ok?

If anyone has any advice or a link to something I would appreciate it. Also it's not a vintage dress, so I'm not destroying anything, it's just cute and I'd like it to fit. If not I'll just donate it back though. Thanks for any help!

As a similar bra size myself, I have to say there is no alteration I've come across to make something fit across the chest. All my nice clothes that fit properly are ones I've made myself. Releasing the dart would help if you were fatter but not if you're busty (at least in my experience). A big chest usually requires a bigger dart and more width across the front, which requires more fabric than is usually available in the seams. However, if you find something that works I'd love to hear it!

 

[lareine]

At my local thrift store the other day, I spotted a Singer Button Holer complete with case and manual for $!5. Anyone use one of these? Are they worth it? My machine's button holer is OK... just wondering if this little gadget might make life easier. I probably dates to the late 50s, judging from the torquoise plastic space-age looking case it's in.

The vintage Singer buttonholers are awesome. I've only ever used them on my vintage Singer machines, but I assume they'd work on most low shank machines. I wouldn't pay US$15 for one because they are readily available here for less, but they are definitely worth having.

Was the one you saw one that takes the metal templates, or one that you have to adjust yourself? I own one of the latter but have never tried it. The templates are so much easier -- just pick the one that fits your button, slot it in, and go. Perfect buttonholes every time

 

[Christi.adell]

Thanks ladies for your advice!!

As a similar bra size myself, I have to say there is no alteration I've come across to make something fit across the chest. All my nice clothes that fit properly are ones I've made myself. Releasing the dart would help if you were fatter but not if you're busty (at least in my experience). A big chest usually requires a bigger dart and more width across the front, which requires more fabric than is usually available in the seams. However, if you find something that works I'd love to hear it!

See this is what I was afraid of. I knew when making clothing I do a FBA, so I figured there wasn't much hope here, but never hurts to ask. I get so frustrated by RTW clothing.

 

[Wire9Vintage]

The vintage Singer buttonholers are awesome. I've only ever used them on my vintage Singer machines, but I assume they'd work on most low shank machines. I wouldn't pay US$15 for one because they are readily available here for less, but they are definitely worth having.

Was the one you saw one that takes the metal templates, or one that you have to adjust yourself? I own one of the latter but have never tried it. The templates are so much easier -- just pick the one that fits your button, slot it in, and go. Perfect buttonholes every time

I found one on Etsy (for twice as much). This is exactly what I saw at the shop: http://www.etsy.com/listing/4615337...&ga_search_type=all&ga_page=1&order=&includes[]=tags

Does this attach to the sewing machine??

 

[swinggal]

Just a question about adjustable dressmakers dummies. I aquired a brand new one this week for $70 - bargain. It has never been used and the lady said it had been in the wardrobe for 6 years. I notice that on all the newest dummies online or in sewing stores they have a hem-measurer attached via a small arm to the stand. Mine does not have one. Does anyone know if you can buy them separately?

Here is a pic of what I mean. See the arm sticking out? Mine doesn't have this and I would like one.

Also, when you use one, do you dial your exact size in? Some older sewing books say you should dial in one size smaller eg; if you have a 38 bust dial in 37. Why would this be?

 

[Lauren]

Score!
I'm not sure if you can but them. To be honest I never use mine. I use the hem marker that stands alone and you can puff a chalk line on to mark my hems. But I've got one hip that's a little higher than the other, so it would make my hems wonky if I used the attached thing as a guide [huh]
Is that thing supposed to mark hems? I don't even know what it's really supposed to be for.

No idea on the dial thing. In use the dial and then measure around it with a tape measure to make sure it's close to my size. Don't forget to include ease when you're fitting what you made to the dress form.

 

[SugarKitten]

Okay sewing machine gurus... another second (third, fourth, fifth) hand machine has found it's way to me. It's a Singer Golden Touch and Sew (a 620 I believe), from 1968. Seems to be the heaviest of all of the four horses I have in the barn. (I have not bought a single one, I think I shall open a Sewing Machine Sanctuary and let them frolic in the hall closet)

It's a strange machine with a slanted needle arm, but from what I've read online, it's got some kind of cult following. It runs, well, it seems, though I haven't actually done more than test it out. My Nelco is freshly repaired, and finally running beautifully, should I look into moving to the Singer? (It was $5 at a flea market when my mom grabbed it, so if it needs a little TLC it's probably worth some investment if it's a good machine.)