Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[dakotanorth]

Items and supplies?

Actually I say forget the scissors if you are going to work from a pattern. Use a rotary cutter; this way you don't have to tack the pattern down, nor pick up the pattern and fabric to cut it. (This is critical if you are working with a vintage pattern that you cannot afford to ruin).

Pick up a few basic colors of thread but I prefer all cotton thread- it shrinks and expands more like the fabric you will sew.
Marking pencils, or tailor's chalk.
Straight pins, usually ones that are very thin,, very sharp, with a plastic head.

IF you're *dying* too make something, go ahead! Make a pair of pants. However, the first pair will be a "throw-away" pair, so use material that is cheap and expendable. Get some funky plaid or obnoxious polka-dot pattern; working with pattern fabrics will train you harder than plain ones. The printed directions in a pattern help, but they are not "law" by any means.
The biggest trick to remember is: SUB-ASSEMBLY. Build all the small parts and areas before you put big panels together. It's much easier to add a button facing while the piece is still flat, rather than managing the entire garment and hand-basting the piece inside.

 

[BonnieJean]

dakota,
I have a rotary cutter, but a small matboard. Did you buy a large matboard to cut with? Some of my pattern pieces can be large and I was wondering what you use underneath when you cut out a pattern/fabric?
Scissors are still handy to have around, but your method intrigues me and I never thought of using a rotary cutter to cut out patterns. But, PS, remember rotary cutters are extremely razor sharp, so you have to be careful with them. I had thought those cutters were more useful to people who make quilts and just want to make straight cuts on fabric.
I'm going to have to investigate this method some more. I learned to sew many, many years ago and do a lot by the "old" methods.

 

[Miss Neecerie]

yea..the price of a rotary -and- a large mat....is much higher then scissors....so for a 'do i even like this sewing lark' thing...scissors are a better first step.



Don't get me started on rotary cutters that you can remove the blades.....-never- carry the blade while walking.....barefoot...trust me on this..

 

[BonnieJean]

Oh, Miss Neecerie, I can't even barely imagine what happened! Yikes!
I can be a bit clumsy with my sewing and I even managed to nip my finger tip once with my good pair of sewing scissors. Now after some thought, I'm not so sure I'd want to use the rotary cutter on a regular basis. So, I agree with you, scissors are a good first option and maybe as one gets more comfortable and experienced with their sewing skills, she could try the rotary cutter. If they had had those cutters available when I first learned to sew, I probably would of cut myself or cut the pattern/fabric wrong (it cuts quick) and gotten discouraged and given up on sewing altogether.
Just my 2 cents...

 

[Joie DeVive]

If you get a rotary cutter, you will need a mat to put under it. I think what cutting tool you use is a matter of taste. I personally, use scissors, but I know people who wouldn't use anything but a rotary cutter. Whether scissors or a rotary cutter, you will want a sharp one which will be used only for fabric. I'd go for a mid-range price. You don't want an "el cheapo", but you don't need a hugely expensive one at this point.

Needles (for hand finishing and for the machine) and pins are a good idea. It would also be good to have a pin cushion or a tightly lidded box for those pins. A tape measure is another good idea, as are bobbins (if you don't have a bunch). You will end up wanting about as many bobbins as you have colors of thread (eventually). A white and a darker pencil are good recommendations as well. A seam ripper is a must. You will make mistakes. You will have to rip out your work. You will need one. I also swear by a device called a sewing gauge with slider. It is a form of ruler with a sliding arrow looking piece. I find it invaluable for hemming. It's just a ruler that marks the measurement you want for you. It isn't a necessity, but I think it makes hemming go faster.

You will want thread, but it may not be on sale now though. It isn't always considered a notion. Get white and black to start. Get whatever you need to match your first project, and wait for it to go on sale for anthing else. (It adds up fast!!)

As for fabric, I'd start with a nice cotton. It isn't too slippery. It isn't too heavy. Starting with a print is good practice, but it is also much more difficult. You have to be especially careful when laying out and cutting if you use a print, especially one that has to line up (like a plaid, stripe, or dot). When I started, I used solid colors for a good long while, and then went to irregular prints (so if I messed up you couldn't tell as easily ) You'll have to decide how much challenge you want.

I emphasize taking baby steps. Rome wasn't built in a day. Take things a step at a time. It's not like Michaelangelo came out of the womb creating masterpieces. It takes time. Be gentle with yourself and put it aside when you get too frustrated.

Good luck!

 

[Lady Day]

Rotary cutter w/ cutting mat is great for knits and jerseys and stretch fabrics. All other fabrics I use pins and scissors

LD

 

[anabolina]

My sewing machine should be here in a week or so! I am very excited. Dh decided a new machine was the way he'd rather go, thought an older used machine might already have too much of it's own personality. So I will have bells and whistles very shortly.

I noticed that Joanns will have a notions sale starting Friday, all notions 50% off. What do I need to get a little arsenal ready? The store isn't horribly close so I can't just run out if I discover there is something I don't have handy..
Also, all Fashion fabrics are 60% off...anything good to start with..basic cotton or just muslin?

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!

I've never used the rotary cutters, I do it all on a carpeted floor, so that just wouldn't work out.

I would definitely look at the cottons, but don't forget the clearance area. I found some beautiful purple paisely peachskin (try saying that 5 times fast) last year and loved it, the quality was really nice and it was $4 a yard. I think they also have the value area back there with the clearance fabircs.

On the notions front, you can never have enough pins or needles (for me). I wouldn't go for the buttons or bias tape. I made that mistake while first learning to sew and now have lots of bias tape and buttons and no big plan for their use. I'm sure I'll think of somthing.

Ooh, zippers can be a good idea. Think of what you want to sew and buiy based on that. If you haven't got the fabric yet, I buy them in black or white. I love being able to just get the box out and sew in a zipper without having to worry or run to the store. That said, I rarely use zipper, even with fitted garments and prefer to shimmy into them <shrugs, personal preference>. You may also want to look into getting snaps and hook and eyes. You probably don't need too much of either, but it's helpful to keep them on hand. Who wants to run out to buy a snap?

 

[Snookie]

Weighing in on rotary cutters: They're ideal for stack cutting (cutting 4 or more layers at once) because you can get a cleaner cut than with scissors. I think that's why they're popular with quilters, but not so common with home sewers. I've got one, but I don't have (or want to store) a large mat, so I never use it. My preferred method of cutting is tracing the pattern, removing it, and cutting on my pencil line - things don't wiggle as much, and I'm more successful at fabric conservation this way. And I use pattern weights, not pins.


PS: If you're making your first project from a pattern, read the back -- it'll tell you all the notions you need for the project. They all say what size zipper, or buttons, and the amount of interfacing, etc. If you have trouble reading it, ask for help; if the staff is all busy ask another customer, most anyone will be excited to help!

Everyone's right -- you must have a sharp seam ripper (they're not just for mistakes, you use them to open buttonholes, seams after you're applied a zippers, all sorts of things). I also have a thread nipper that I hang around my neck while I sew -- this can be cheap. It's to clip all your thread tails when you sew a seam.

 

[Elaina]

I don't know. I own a really nice rotary cutter, and I still pull out my Gingher's tailor knife edge 5 inch shears. It's like buttah, was like that when I got them, still like that today.

As to notions, it all depends. A good pencil to make marks is a must, as are seam rippers that have been covered. I find that a bodkin was a pleasure for the casings and elastic, but mine's been displaced so I'm all grumpy. I have a drawer full of things I use alot of, and really I did it with a hem guage, a safety pin, tape measure, seam ripper, good scissors and a marking pencil for forever and a day.

 

[Snookie]

I came across this article recently:

The Key to Vintage Pattern Markings
http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00210.asp

It's how to read unprinted patterns, written by the owner of EvaDress.com

Bartenders, might it be possible to have a sewing resource sticky at the top of the Powder Room? Maybe with helpful articles and places to buy fabric and patterns? This thread seems to be a favorite, but is difficult to navigate for that info.

 

[Lady Day]

Bartenders, might it be possible to have a sewing resource sticky at the top of the Powder Room? Maybe with helpful articles and places to buy fabric and patterns? This thread seems to be a favorite, but is difficult to navigate for that info.

Hmmm....thats a good idea.

LD

 

[kamikat]

Ladies, I need help! I'm stumped on the best way to do a FBA on Butterick 6582.
If you look at the line drawing here http://www.butterick.com/item/B6582.htm?search=6582&page=1 you'll see that the dress front is one large piece and a small shoulder corner piece. Should I do a pin and pivot or the cut and spread. Either way, do I take the added ease up into the shoulder piece, or just to the top of the main front section? Any ideas?

 

[dakotanorth]

Rotary vs scissors

Weighing in on rotary cutters: They're ideal for stack cutting (cutting 4 or more layers at once) because you can get a cleaner cut than with scissors. I think that's why they're popular with quilters, but not so common with home sewers. I've got one, but I don't have (or want to store) a large mat, so I never use it. My preferred method of cutting is tracing the pattern, removing it, and cutting on my pencil line - things don't wiggle as much, and I'm more successful at fabric conservation this way. And I use pattern weights, not pins.


PS: If you're making your first project from a pattern, read the back -- it'll tell you all the notions you need for the project. They all say what size zipper, or buttons, and the amount of interfacing, etc. If you have trouble reading it, ask for help; if the staff is all busy ask another customer, most anyone will be excited to help!

Everyone's right -- you must have a sharp seam ripper (they're not just for mistakes, you use them to open buttonholes, seams after you're applied a zippers, all sorts of things). I also have a thread nipper that I hang around my neck while I sew -- this can be cheap. It's to clip all your thread tails when you sew a seam.

Good point snookie- the tracing wheel approach would be great too- again, it's similar to a rotary cutter since you trace the pattern while it's flat, rather than picking it up and cutting. I really need to get transfer paper!!

The book I've been reading by David Page Coffin strongly promotes rotary cutters for the same reason. You have to adjust by occasionally lifting the wheel- the fabric can bunch as you roll along.
Lastly, yes, you need a cutting mat. I think there are cheaper and/or disposable sub's, like paperboard, or polypropelene cutting boards, but the cutting mats are great, IF you are going to stick with it. I actually own two that I lay side-by-side for long runs.

I have to admit though, I wouldn't mind a pair of fine, fine, super-fine shears. I tried out a pair at Michael Levine's- they felt like a ninja sword in my hands....

 

[Snookie]

Ladies, I need help! I'm stumped on the best way to do a FBA on Butterick 6582.
If you look at the line drawing here http://www.butterick.com/item/B6582.htm?search=6582&page=1 you'll see that the dress front is one large piece and a small shoulder corner piece. Should I do a pin and pivot or the cut and spread. Either way, do I take the added ease up into the shoulder piece, or just to the top of the main front section? Any ideas?

Sorry, I don't quite get what you're asking. What's an FBA? Front Bust Adjustment? Not sure where this added ease is coming from...but I wouldn't try to bring too much up into the shoulder, it'll tweak your grainline. Can you adjust the darts instead?

 

[Snookie]

Good point snookie- the tracing wheel approach would be great too- again, it's similar to a rotary cutter since you trace the pattern while it's flat, rather than picking it up and cutting. I really need to get transfer paper!!

Ha! I don't even bother with a tracing wheel. I just use a pencil! This works best with manila patterns, because they're not as flimsy. (I like colored pencils for dark fabric better than the white "marking" pencils that don't mark and break constantly.)

I've got a terrible habit of using whatever's handy for marking, though. I've spoiled MULTIPLE garments by trying to use a skinny Sharpie. Yes, it does bleed through the other side...

 

[kamikat]

Sorry, I don't quite get what you're asking. What's an FBA? Front Bust Adjustment? Not sure where this added ease is coming from...but I wouldn't try to bring too much up into the shoulder, it'll tweak your grainline. Can you adjust the darts instead?

A FBA is a full bust adjustment. This must be done to every pattern for any woman who wears anything larger than a C cup. Mainstream patterns are drafted for a B-C cup, meaning that if you are larger than a C, you use the pattern that will fit your high bust, not the full bust. Choosing a pattern size based on your full bust measurement will be too large everywhere else.

 

[Snookie]

A FBA is a full bust adjustment. This must be done to every pattern for any woman who wears anything larger than a C cup. Mainstream patterns are drafted for a B-C cup, meaning that if you are larger than a C, you use the pattern that will fit your high bust, not the full bust. Choosing a pattern size based on your full bust measurement will be too large everywhere else.

Aha! I knew that commerical patterns are for a B-cup, but I've never had to make that adjustment so I didn't realize the terminology. So I ran a quick Google search and found these basic instructions - this is the basic concept you use, right?

http://cahe.nmsu.edu/pubs/_c/c-228.html

http://www.cedesign.com/familyphotos/sewing/info/EmpireFBA/index.html

Anyway, I found this tutorial on adjusting a mock wrap top, similar to your pattern. It looks like you need to line up your center fronts (if the shoulder reaches that far?) and adjust both pieces. Does that help?

http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/2007/03/09/adjusting-for-a-full-bust-on-a-wrap-top/

 

[Pink Dahlia]

Joann's has Simplicity patterns on sale for $1.99! I bought all the retro ones I didn't have.

 

[Laura Chase]

I'm not sure if this is the right thread to post this, if there is another thread more appropriate, then please move my post.

I have a question about repairing holes in a dress... I bought this lovely dress but it had two large moth holes in the back, right on the derriere... So I tried to patch them with some fabric from the hem, but oh so unsuccessfully...

What should I do? I can remove the patches, but I don't know how to sew them on more invisibly, the fabric unravels when I try.

I was thinking of making some of that velvet appliqué in the back too, but maybe it will look bad because I can't make the applique look exactly the same. But it seems like that is the only solution. If so, how do you think I should make the appliqué pattern, should it go from the front right side and then to the back, or how do I avoid making it look misplaced?

I'm heartbroken because this dress is so lovely. The fabric is some sort of
wool crepe, I believe.

Dress

Holes 1

Holes 1

Velvet appliqué 1

Velvet appliqué 2

 

[goldwyn girl]

Have you thought about adding a train or a ruffle instead. You could use a complementing fabric. Something like this. I can't make out in the photo if it has a waist seam if so you could take it apart and add the train there or if not hand sew it on.