Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[colleency]

I would add to the great recommendations of the others that you should make sure that your first machine has at least a three-step buttonholer. It should have two settings that makes each side of the buttonhole and one that makes the ends. (Of course, if the machine you're looking at has a one-step buttonhole, that's even better.) If you decide to go with something used, be sure to try it out before purchasing. Try it on a couple of different types of fabric.

Someone suggested that you wash or dry clean your fabric. Remember to treat how it will be treated after you sew the garment. So if you're making a cotton dress, you will be washing it by machine. Wash your fabric by machine. If you're making a wool skirt, you will be dry cleaning it. Send your fabric to the dry cleaners.

 

[Vanessa]

Then, you move onto buying fabric when you don't really need it. As the saying goes, "He/she who dies with the most fabric, wins!"

No, no no - she who is the best friend of the one who dies with the most fabric, wins.

 

[Ms.Casino]

edited

 

[Von Dee]

Never should have trusted me with that sewing machine...

I honestly don't know what I would have done without this awsome info I got from all yu lovely ladies, It's been so helpful.... I can't wait to start, & as far as the sewing classes, they sound like my cup of tea'... I'm a visual learner, something about direction & guidance, they suit me well!!! Hey well I posted a blog on my 360, http://360.yahoo.com/my_profile.html, I usually do some updates on there, So anyhow, I hope some of yu can join me on there, or if yu already have a 360 on yahoo, add me as a friend.... why don't yu... wink*

 

[Tin Pan Sally]

Sewing Tips

Good pointers here. I agree that the "Complete Guide To Sewing" by Readers Digest is extremely helpful. I also recommend the following: "Designing Apparel Through The Flat Pattern", "Fashion Handbook" by Tate Edwards, "Fabric Reference" by Humphrys, "Creative Sewing Ideas" by Singer, "Fabric Lovers Scrapbook" by Dittman. Also, just for fun, "A History of Costume" by Kohler, "Clothes On And Off Stage" by Chalmers. Dover catalog has a few fashion history books.
Most community colleges offer credit sewing courses. It's really easy once you get started. It's like learning to drive a car at first, especially if you never had anyone to show you how. Hang in there, you'll love it.

 

[swankysister]

No, no no - she who is the best friend of the one who dies with the most fabric, wins.

Heh, okay Vanessa. I'll have to write a separate clause in my will: "I entrust my paltry fabric collection to..."

Another piece of sewing advice I was given was to do a 'practice run' sewing from a pattern using a really lightweight 'pattern copying' material (about A$0.99/metre) or calico. There is a technical term for this, but I can't remember. It helps you to become familiar with the pattern and make a better product in the end, although you need to be mindful of using heavier or lighter materials in your final efforts.

 

[Tin Pan Sally]

Practice run

I sometimes do a practice piece in cheap muslin for a fitted bodice to make sure it is correct. Especially if I've made a pattern from scratch using rubbings of a vintage item. I've never completed an entire outfit as a trial run though. Just inside seams (like a vest), no finishing.

 

[AllaboutEve]

Just got back from my first all day "sewing workshop" today, and I would recommend that you try booking yourself into a class once you have learned the basics of machining to learn some pattern adjustment and fitting.

I am not very experienced having only ever made couture doll's clothes, never anything for a real person, and never anything much to fit around all of my lumps and bumps!!........ but the class I just went to was a revelation.
For instance I had NO idea that all commercial patterns are cut for a "B" cup bust unless specified otherwise (which doesn't leave me any room at all), I spent a very long time adjusting the paper pattern for an original 40's dress I picked up on Ebay, and boy am I glad I did before I rushed ahead with fabric etc.

I have never had anyone to show me how to fit before, I spent the whole day just getting the toile pieces together and go back for my first fit soon once I have finished it off at home.

Books are really great and very helpful but there is nothing more wonderful than a good teacher to take all the maths and diagrams away and just show you how!

Don't know if you have anything like this near to home but I would really recommend it as it has given me so much more confidence.
Good luck!

 

[swankysister]

Books are really great and very helpful but there is nothing more wonderful than a good teacher to take all the maths and diagrams away and just show you how!

Agreed. I find that whatever course I do, if I bring a little knowledge with me, then I get more out of it. If I turn up cold to a course, then I tend to flail about too much and miss out on learning the basics, rather than reinforce and refine the basics.

I'd recommend reading books that have been recommended here so far, or magazines such as Threads, browsing through sewing pattern catalogues - especially the 'Easy Sewing' categories - to try and decipher them (just resist the urge to buy too many).

Then, when you've got a tiny bit of knowledge and a lot of questions, head along to a Beginners sewing course.

 

[Lauren]

I love Threads magazine. It's expensive, but its SO worth the price.

 

[colleency]

There are some internet spots that offer discounts on subscriptions to Threads.

 

[AllaboutEve]

I love Threads magazine. It's expensive, but its SO worth the price.

I thought it was just expensive here in the UK, I am surprised that it is expensive in the States too! but I agree well worth the money.

I just picked up a copy of a fantastic book called "Sew any fabric" by Claire Sheaffer, it covers just about every fabric I know and lists all the workroom secrets and sewing techniques for all of them.


...........my partner just asked me "who are you frantically typing to?" and I told him how great this forum is, how much I have learned here and that it's one of the best places I've ever found on the internet!!!!! Just thought I'd share that with you all!

 

[Tin Pan Sally]

Threads

Threads is worth the price.
I have a fitting question: I?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢m just curious how many of my fellow tailors/seamstresses use a sloper vs draping over a form?

 

[Lauren]

Well, I personally prefer draping, but the problem is my form for draping is not my size (nor the size for most people I know!) So I drape on the form, transfer the muslin to pattern paper, then clean it up with a sloper after I've resized it, and add seam allowances. I really hate flat pattern drafting and generally only do it if I'm desperate or am doing it for a client.

 

[Tin Pan Sally]

pattern making

I love flat pattern drafting, but then, I haven't been trained in draping. I may just take a course.

 

[decodoll]

Well, I personally prefer draping, but the problem is my form for draping is not my size (nor the size for most people I know!) So I drape on the form, transfer the muslin to pattern paper, then clean it up with a sloper after I've resized it, and add seam allowances. I really hate flat pattern drafting and generally only do it if I'm desperate or am doing it for a client.

um...yeah...who came up with the proportions for professional dress forms anyway!?? That's why I didn't spring for one and got the Uniquely You, which I think I need to take the cover off of again and adjust the upper bust before I start the Renaissance project. That thing is not fun to get back on...

 

[Lauren]

Sheesh! I know! I should have just gotten one in my size instead of the "standard size" while I was splurging. Now I mostly sew for myself and it would have made it a heck of a lot easier if the form was to my measurements.

Are the uniquely you ones the ones that are foam and you make a cover? Vanessa has one of the foam ones, but I think I'd have to hack off half the breasts to make it even remotely resemble my figure. Even those puppies compressed is larger than I'd EVER be endowed!

Ooh... good luck on the new cover! You are one determined girl! But your dress is going to be STUNNING! You have to post pics of the progress! Puhleese!!

 

[decodoll]

Yes, it's the same one Vanessa has. I have the same issue....I think that's why the upper chest is too big. All that extra foam gets pushed up there. I think I may shave some off if taking the cover in more doesn't do it. I had the whole office in hysterics when it came in the mail. lol

I'll try to remember to take pics as I go. I've been reading though the pattern I got from Margo's Patterns today. Not sure how much of the pattern I will actually use since it's Elizabethan, and I'm doing Venetian, but the 150 pages of instructions that come with it are worth the price.

Okay...that's a bit too retro for this forum...back to the golden era.

 

[Vanessa]

Are the uniquely you ones the ones that are foam and you make a cover? Vanessa has one of the foam ones, but I think I'd have to hack off half the breasts to make it even remotely resemble my figure. Even those puppies compressed is larger than I'd EVER be endowed!

It took about a month and half to get Betty slimmed down to anywhere near my size. This included the initial fitting and wrangling her into the cover and then all the subsequent runs of alterations/struggling to get her back into it/measuring and taking it off again.
I had ordered the smallest size form and the corresponding cover thinking that she would compress as easily as I was told.
I've got a picture here of what she started out like. . .I admit, it's been a battle to get her girls under control enough so that I can use the form, but it's better than doing without. Betty still needs to have a little reduction work done. She may just have to go under the knife soon.
(And if you're wondering, everyone's taken to calling the dressform Betty Nugs.)

 

[Tin Pan Sally]

Sloper fans

For those of you who use a sloper(s); Did you make it/them from gingham or muslin? Do you keep it/them rolled on a cardboard tube or hang them?

I use the cheapest muslin I can find.

Also, when designing, do you keep your mini trial patterns? I do, but I'm not sure why. I could make doll clothes, I suppose.