SELF-TAILORING FOR THE WILLING GENTLEMAN.

[Dr Doran]

After seeing the marvelous posts by the gentleman in Japan who is doing his own tailoring, I'm willing to try a thing or two on my own. I can readily sew on buttons (very easy, and I assume anyone can do this). I have tried to work on pants-cuffs and have had some success. I am wondering if any gentlemen OR LADIES would be so kind as to give out sewing basics for the gentlemen on

1.) making pants cuffs on pants, assuming one has sufficient fabric in the leg; and

2.) adjusting sleeves on jackets.

My mother tells me these are very easy and any clever fellow should be able to do it. I do own a sewing machine but it's rather janky and I would rather do this sort of thing by hand.

I'm a 42L and I very often find fine suits for ridiculously cheap prices that need only to be lengthened slightly in the wrists and ankles.

 

[Randy]

My father makes his own bow ties, many of which I am quite envious of, and he used to (before age caused him to stop) make his own shirts and pants as well. Doing alterations of existing clothing should be easy once you get the feel for it. My father taught me the basics of alteration (quite some time ago) and I have to say that, like most skills, once you get a little practice on the basics your ability should progress quite quickly.

- R

 

[Dr Doran]

My father makes his own bow ties, many of which I am quite envious of, and he used to (before age caused him to stop) make his own shirts and pants as well. Doing alterations of existing clothing should be easy once you get the feel for it. My father taught me the basics of alteration (quite some time ago) and I have to say that, like most skills, once you get a little practice on the basics your ability should progress quite quickly.

- R

A most promising and optimistic start. More please.

 

[Wolfmanjack]

Books?

I think many of us would like to learn more about this. Perhaps some of you (professional or amateur) tailors could suggest books we would find helpful.

 

[Feraud]

I suggest taking a basic sewing/tailoring class if one is available.
There is nothing better than a teacher to correct flaws. It saves a lot of time, energy, and frustration.

 

[Randy]

Sorry, I didn't mean to imply that I had been doing alterations for some time - I've only dabbled a long time ago because I was awed by my father's skill and have not done much since.

In my experience, tailoring is not something that can be easily taught by words alone. It helped me greatly to be able to see (to be shown I should say) what to do because I was able to see first hand an example of how things should go, and then to have my own efforts (mistakes) interpreted by someone with experience. I'm sure that there are good books out there on alterations, but unfortunately I don't know of any right now...

- R

 

[CharlestonBows]

My input

Tomorrow at the shop I will take step by step photos of putting a cuff in a pair of trousers the right way. I'll try to post them tomorrow night. It's pretty easy, once you get the feel for it - it takes me about 10 minutes, start to finish.

As far as sleeves, I'll try and do the same thing when I'm patient enough to work the camera whilst also doing sleeves. These are irritating, mostly because it's all hand work if it's going to be done correctly. The trick is, if lowering the sleeve, making sure there is enough lining in the sleeve to carry it down. If not, you have to insert an extension, and this looks really really lame. And the buttons, ooo those darn buttons. lol

Maybe it's just because sleeves have been that one thing I dislike doing. [huh]

I'll try and make that post tomorrow evening.

 

[Wolfmanjack]

Tomorrow at the shop I will take step by step photos of putting a cuff in a pair of trousers the right way. I'll try to post them tomorrow night. It's pretty easy, once you get the feel for it - it takes me about 10 minutes, start to finish.

Thank you! We'll all be here tomorrow night to see this!:eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap

 

[Orgetorix]

I have altered trousers hems before, but I took apart a jacket sleeve one time and couldn't figure out how to put it back together.

 

[CharlestonBows]

I have altered trousers hems before, but I took apart a jacket sleeve one time and couldn't figure out how to put it back together.

lol -- step by step: 1) get in car, 2) drive to tailor, 3) pay him very well!

In all seriousness, that's how you learn. Practice on a cheap jacket; you'll at least see how it all works.


-- CB

 

[Dr Doran]

Practice on a cheap jacket; you'll at least see how it all works.


-- CB

Thank you, Charleston. I'll do that on a couple of Goodwill specials I have floating around at the moment. I eagerly look forward to your photos!

 

[Snookie]

I think many of us would like to learn more about this. Perhaps some of you (professional or amateur) tailors could suggest books we would find helpful.

Vogue Sewing and the Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing are both excellent reference books, I know cuffs are covered and I bet sleeve hems are as well. Most libraries should have one or both.

Much easier to look at pictures and diagrams for this sort of thing, than to read text. CharlestonBows, I'm looking forward to seeing your pictures, too.

 

[Dr Doran]

Vogue Sewing and the Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing are both excellent reference books, I know cuffs are covered and I bet sleeve hems are as well. Most libraries should have one or both.

Much easier to look at pictures and diagrams for this sort of thing, than to read text. CharlestonBows, I'm looking forward to seeing your pictures, too.

I will try to find these books ... I was unaware of their existence. THIS, my dear, is the bestial level of my knowledge of these matters.

 

[Snookie]

I will try to find these books ... I was unaware of their existence. THIS, my dear, is the bestial level of my knowledge of these matters.

I'm a library addict AND my mom had the Reader's Digest book when I was growing up (not anymore, as I nicked hers...) So I had a slight advantage. I didn't start referencing them until I had been sewing for many years already, though.

FYI, cuffs are easier than sleeves, and since they're down by your feet mistakes are less noticable. I'd start with cuffs.

 

[Jovan]

Tomorrow at the shop I will take step by step photos of putting a cuff in a pair of trousers the right way. I'll try to post them tomorrow night. It's pretty easy, once you get the feel for it - it takes me about 10 minutes, start to finish.

As far as sleeves, I'll try and do the same thing when I'm patient enough to work the camera whilst also doing sleeves. These are irritating, mostly because it's all hand work if it's going to be done correctly. The trick is, if lowering the sleeve, making sure there is enough lining in the sleeve to carry it down. If not, you have to insert an extension, and this looks really really lame. And the buttons, ooo those darn buttons. lol

Maybe it's just because sleeves have been that one thing I dislike doing. [huh]

I'll try and make that post tomorrow evening.

I'd love to see this as well.

 

[Mr. Rover]

Tomorrow at the shop I will take step by step photos of putting a cuff in a pair of trousers the right way. I'll try to post them tomorrow night. It's pretty easy, once you get the feel for it - it takes me about 10 minutes, start to finish.

As far as sleeves, I'll try and do the same thing when I'm patient enough to work the camera whilst also doing sleeves. These are irritating, mostly because it's all hand work if it's going to be done correctly. The trick is, if lowering the sleeve, making sure there is enough lining in the sleeve to carry it down. If not, you have to insert an extension, and this looks really really lame. And the buttons, ooo those darn buttons. lol

Maybe it's just because sleeves have been that one thing I dislike doing. [huh]

I'll try and make that post tomorrow evening.

That would be so great! Thank you!

 

[MB5]

I'm a 42L and I very often find fine suits for ridiculously cheap prices that need only to be lengthened slightly in the wrists and ankles.

I have the same problem. Extending jacket sleeves is no small task. There is the afore mentioned lining extension and if it has a faux buttoned cuff you will likely have to remove it and convert the sleeve to just seamed. The inside is also more complex than you might expect.

Also, invest in a good iron. It makes removing previous cuffs much easier. I have never tried it with thin jacket, but I have done it to pants.

The best advise I can give is take it apart slowly, making mental or paper notes about how things went together. It helps to have a similar item present as well so you can see how things should look.

 

[Dr Doran]

Well, I just did one cuff on some pants. Here were the original problems:

1. The pants were about half an inch too short.

2. The cuff was only about 1.25 inches tops, and I wanted a wider cuff. I ideally wanted 2 inches, but there was not enough cloth.

So here is what I did.

1. I cut the stitching holding the existing cuff to the pant leg -- this stitching is over the seams that comprise the leg.

2. I rolled down the cuff and ironed it.

3. I then undid the stitching by which the cloth was folded INSIDE the leg.

4. I then redid #3 but farther down away from the top of the pants.

5. I refolded the cuff.

I still need to stitch the cuff back to the pant leg. It looks OK, but took hours. I am not sure if this is worth my time. Although it will take less time, presumably, as the years go by. If I keep it up.

No, I cannot post pics -- the results are too embarassing. We need pics from someone who knows what he is doing, such as Charleston.
Charleston?
Charleston?
Are you out there?

 

[Fletch]

Extending jacket sleeves is no small task. There is the afore mentioned lining extension and if it has a faux buttoned cuff you will likely have to remove it and convert the sleeve to just seamed.

I just took apart one sleeve of a suit jacket I want to do. I see how the folds ought to go to keep the faux button foldover and it looks as tho there's material to do it. So what might stop me? Is the stitching impossible right side out or other mechanical complications?

 

[Wolfmanjack]

Tomorrow at the shop I will take step by step photos of putting a cuff in a pair of trousers the right way. I'll try to post them tomorrow night. It's pretty easy, once you get the feel for it - it takes me about 10 minutes, start to finish.

Professor CharlestonBows, your admiring students are eagerly awaiting your words and pictures.