Searching for my first leather jacket……in Japan. Aero? Rainbow Country? (w/ pics)

[Deleted member 16736]

John Chapman of Goodwear Leather sells a jacket called The Californian Mojave with an identical back. It's an offset zipper 30's aviator-style jacket. His horsehide is sourced from Japan, is also aniline-dyed, and weights between 1.1-1.2 oz. I find the leather plenty heavy for me. He has a seal brown HH that is very popular. The wait is long, but the jacket will be a custom fit with a custom lining, and will cost you a few hundred less.

If you decide to buy local, you could do much worse than those jackets. Very nice fit and look.

 

[saucerfiend]

The black does look good, but it isn't zipped up, so it probably fits exactly the same in this respect. What do you say? I'm a russet guy and that looks great on you. So, that's my vote.

Brian

 

[Ishmael]

I want to thank you for all the very kinds words and advice everyone has provided while I was sleeping through the time difference. Really appreciate the positive vibes here in the lounge. Sorry, this will be a long post, as I try to catch up!

Beautiful jacket, that's the one I've been looking for...
Last week I actually sent pics to US Leathers after seeing Worf's halfbelt, and they priced it around $850. $1700 seems a bit steep to me, but there is something to be said for sourcing locally. Just keep in mind an original 30s Hercules sold on eBay for $1600.

Thanks for the tip. I sort of figured there would be places to get a similar product for less, since I know from living here things tend to be more expensive in general, and leather is much more so. I'm going to look into US leathers, BUT I'm ok with paying more for a jacket that I know fits and I can have immediately. I'm also happy to put money back into the Japanese economy, since I feel strongly about buying local and really appreciate the strong social safety net etc.

I can only agree with what the other guys said so far!

1. You are very lucky to have access to these beauties being so close to the factory. I've seen a number of their jackets in various issues of "Free & Easy". Great products!!

2. Just buy the russet AND the seal version. That will save you a lot of money in the long run


BTW: Superb introductory post!! Welcome to this unique place. Make sure you have your wallet ready...

Jansolo, thanks! Really appreciate all your posts, especially the Aero goatskin halfbelt review. That helped me to realize that there were other options out there besides Aero FQHH (which I still hope to have one day!). I can only agree: I'm very lucky to have access to so many great jackets! I've read through F&E quite a bit, but don't remember seeing Rainbow Country, will have to go through some of my back issues. I haven't found it yet, but I think the magazine "New Times" just did a special edition on Rainbow Country. Trying to track this down right now.

http://blog-imgs-55.fc2.com/m/i/r/mirrorball/IMG_0871.jpg

Thanks for the "buy 2" suggestion. My wife will get a kick out of that. And it should make it a bit easier to convince her that "buying 1" ain't no thing! I think I'll get one, and wait to see what they come out with in the future! My wallet is running scared.

My two cents, Ishmael:

The size 40 clearly fits you PERFECTLY. Stick with it.

As to color, the red-brown looks great on you, but I'll go against the consensus here and say the black one suits you better. Perhaps a dark brown would give you the best of both worlds?

I don't see how you can go wrong here, so just choose one, have fun, and enjoy!

Thanks! I'm definitely looking forward to the seal brown. As mentioned in another comment below, the black does have light brown contrast stitching which lightens it up considerably from an all black jacket. There is a retailer called "McFlys" though that has this jacket in black with black stitching FWIW.

All of the above. What a great find!

Another option may be to hunt down a genuine vintage... all the good ones seem to find their way to Japan. Free & Easy have their own store I believe, I think it's called The Rugged Museum, which sells vintage pieces alongside modern repros (haven't been there I hasten to add so someone pull me up if i'm wrong).

Yes, I've been to the "Rugged Museum" several times. It's a great shop and they have both vintage as well as interesting new products. I'm a little leery to go vintage. I've heard prices are high here, and I wouldn't really know how to determine whether something is worth the yen.

My gawd man...
Buy it..!!! The fit is dead on!
Color?...that's a tough one. You look good in both.
Welcome to the FL
HD

HoosierDaddy, thanks for the kind words. I've gained a lot from your always informative posts on here, especially since we are similarly sized. I've seen that you often add length to body and sleeves. I think I'm fine in the body of the jacket, how about in the arms? Any need to worry about the sleeves riding too high with creasing on the arms? Color is, indeed, very tough!

I'm not usually a black jacket guy, but the black one is spectatular. I had to look close as it almost appears to be a dark seal brown. I especially like the contrast stitching - it looks khaki, but I'm guessing it is olive drab. You are very lucky in that you can try on the jackets prior to purchase. You are also lucky in that you seem to have the perfect physique for that jacket. It looks custom made for you.

Love the suede long wing bluchers! Alden?

Thanks for the kind words! You're exactly right. The contrast stitching significantly alters the appearance of the jacket. Some will like it, some won't. I'm in the former camp. The stitching is actually light brown. And, you're right on the shoes, Alden's snuff suede long wing bluchers, purchased second-hand but unused just recently. I think they work well with the red brown jacket.

I agree - if you walked out without that black one, you need to run down there now and get it! The red fits as well, but the black looks great on you.
I like the shirt too. Solid combo - and WELCOME to the asylum lol

Thanks ButteMT61! Well, I did walk out without the black one, but luckily they've got more! And the 40 is a less than popular size here. I do really like the black as well. I don't know how important a point this is, but I own no black shoes (except a very formal oxford). I'm starting to wish I had picked up a jacket first, and then let it drive my shoe/boot purchases. Oh well......not like you'd have to twist my arm to buy some black boots! Thanks for the comment on the shirt. I really like it. It's a very bright olive, as opposed to the usual drab.

If the California Brown fits like that black one, it gets my vote. Your beard seems to ask for the darker brown.
The black one looks like a custom fit on you = sleeves & shoulders.

Unfortunately, the "California Brown" was a limited edition from a few years back. But I completely agree, it's stunning! My beard is brown, but also has some red in it.

Could you please post the adress of the shop? The showroom looks spectacular too and I will stay in Tokio several days coming month...

ButteMT61 your right, the madness got me too. Perhaps Amanda can recommend a maker of fine straitghtjackets...

I'm very happy to make a plug for both of the shops (the pics were actually taken at 2 different shops). I want to highly recommend "Mushmans" (the shop where the "red brown" pics were taken. The owner is a young guy named Ryohei Fujita. He's extremely nice and helpful, and has really put together a fantastic shop with a great product lineup. The shop is out here in the burbs, just a few minutes walk from Minami-koshigaya station, which is located northeast of Tokyo proper in Saitama.

http://mushmans.com/info.html

〒 343-0845
Saitama Pref., Koshigaya City, Minami-Koshigaya １丁目１-59
Rosado 南越谷 0102

TEL : 048-972-5419
FAX : 048-972-5491

Open：11:00 - 20:00（everyday）

The other shop is Americaya 610 in the Ameyokocho shopping area of Ueno. It's much more centrally located and anyone member here at FL visiting Tokyo and not making it to Ameyokocho would be amiss. It's one of the capitals of ame-kaji (American Casual) in Japan.

Let me know if you have any questions!

Welcome,

This is a really beautiful jacket!

If you want an opinion from a woman, I would say go with the russet one!

I definitely want the opinion of a woman! Thanks! My wife had been telling me along to go for black, but she seems to be leaning towards the russet one now!

John Chapman of Goodwear Leather sells a jacket called The Californian Mojave with an identical back. It's an offset zipper 30's aviator-style jacket. His horsehide is sourced from Japan, is also aniline-dyed, and weights between 1.1-1.2 oz. I find the leather plenty heavy for me. He has a seal brown HH that is very popular. The wait is long, but the jacket will be a custom fit with a custom lining, and will cost you a few hundred less.

If you decide to buy local, you could do much worse than those jackets. Very nice fit and look.

Thanks for the lead! Will check it out!

The black does look good, but it isn't zipped up, so it probably fits exactly the same in this respect. What do you say? I'm a russet guy and that looks great on you. So, that's my vote.

Brian

The black fits the exact same as the red brown. I had some trouble with the zipper on the black one. Indeed, almost couldn't get the jacket back off once, so I left it unzipped for the photo! Thanks for your vote! Never thought I was a "russet guy", but its growing on me, and I can see where it will fit better with what I've got for shoes and boots.

 

[ButteMT61]

Check out this thread for info on Engineer's Boots. Good stuff. Because, as Worf will tell you, I'm a pimp. lol
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?43530-Engineer-Boots-Harness-Boots...

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Ishmael

I think the fit is great. If I was having one custom made..I personally might add a 'tad bit' more sleeve length..but,on you..the sleeves don't look too short by any means. I think they would be fine.
In all honesty..I can't see anything to criticize about the fit..or design features of that jacket. If it were me in Japan..I think I would walk out of the shop with 'at least' one of those jackets..even if I'd have to hitch hike back to Indiana! I know..I know..sad isn't it....

 

[Ishmael]

Check out this thread for info on Engineer's Boots. Good stuff. Because, as Worf will tell you, I'm a pimp. lol
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?43530-Engineer-Boots-Harness-Boots...

Thanks for pointing me in the direction of that thread. I've actually had some engineer boots on my mind, and that looks like a good place to start the search. Again, though, my search might be cut short by the availability of great products round these parts. In fact, yesterday at Mushmans I ran across a pair of John Lofgren's engineer boots that they are currently taking orders for, even in my size 12, which is absolutely impossible to find in Japan. I'm sure many of you are familiar with John Lofgren--an American spectactularly doing his thing up in Sendai--and perhaps with his engineer boots as well. He's done them in black and brown cxl, and the next makeup is in a beautiful cognac/chestnut leather from Badalassi. There's a write-up over at Vintage Engineers.

http://vintageengineerboots.blogspot.jp/2012/10/john-lofgren-and-company-engineer-boots-.html

They were stunning in person! But, I need to decide on which jacket first!!!!!

Ishmael

I think the fit is great. If I was having one custom made..I personally might add a 'tad bit' more sleeve length..but,on you..the sleeves don't look too short by any means. I think they would be fine.
In all honesty..I can't see anything to criticize about the fit..or design features of that jacket. If it were me in Japan..I think I would walk out of the shop with 'at least' one of those jackets..even if I'd have to hitch hike back to Indiana! I know..I know..sad isn't it....

HD, thanks for the input. I agree, if it was a custom job, I "might" add a bit to the sleeves, but I think I'm happy where they're at now. And I appreciate your comments on the jacket, sounds like I found a keeper. If you do need to hitchhike back to Indiana at some point, I can attest to the fact that the hitching in Japan leg will be a breeze. I've hitched all over the country and never waited more than 15 minutes!

 

[Ishmael]

What do you all think of the melton wool lining? I'm assuming that this is on the warmer end of the lining fabric spectrum?

I'm originally from Michigan, and the weathers here in the Tokyo area are comparatively a cakewalk. More similar to Atlanta than Detroit. I'm thinking that I'll be able to use this from about now thru to April (minus the very coldest part of winter) with varying combinations of under-t-shirt or merino wool longjohn, shirt and/or light sweater, and sweatshirt to medium weight sweater.

 

[dmdmorris]

Jackets look great on you as others have said. You have the advantage of proximity and can try them on and they seem comfortable from your posts. You can keep looking, but nothing substitutes for actual hands on which you have. As for color, that's personal. (Although I do like the Brown on you). If it were me I would definitely go for the FQHH, just my preference.
Good Luck and let us know what you decide.

 

[Grayland]

What do you all think of the melton wool lining? I'm assuming that this is on the warmer end of the lining fabric spectrum?

I'm originally from Michigan, and the weathers here in the Tokyo area are comparatively a cakewalk. More similar to Atlanta than Detroit. I'm thinking that I'll be able to use this from about now thru to April (minus the very coldest part of winter) with varying combinations of under-t-shirt or merino wool longjohn, shirt and/or light sweater, and sweatshirt to medium weight sweater.

I live in upstate New York and I would still go with the lightest lining possible. You can always wear a layer underneath. It's a half belt and not a serious cold weather jacket anyway.

 

[ButteMT61]

I live in upstate New York and I would still go with the lightest lining possible. You can always wear a layer underneath. It's a half belt and not a serious cold weather jacket anyway.

It lets you don the leather more months of the year. I agree.

 

[Ishmael]

Jackets look great on you as others have said. You have the advantage of proximity and can try them on and they seem comfortable from your posts. You can keep looking, but nothing substitutes for actual hands on which you have. As for color, that's personal. (Although I do like the Brown on you). If it were me I would definitely go for the FQHH, just my preference.
Good Luck and let us know what you decide.

Thanks for the input! You summed it up well, nothing substitutes for getting hands on with the jacket, especially when your a newbie like me.

I live in upstate New York and I would still go with the lightest lining possible. You can always wear a layer underneath. It's a half belt and not a serious cold weather jacket anyway.

It lets you don the leather more months of the year. I agree.

Thanks, guys. I can't choose the lining on the Rainbow Country, they all come with melton wool. Think its too warm?

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Nope...it's thin enough. Buy it!
HD

 

[Grayland]

Nope...it's thin enough. Buy it!
HD

He's right. Buy it!

 

[IXL]

Caution to the wind! Buy it. Buy it now! You know it looks great!

Never let it be said that I can't be counted on to be an enabler.

 

[ButteMT61]

Buy it. Make us proud.

 

[Grayland]

Caution to the wind! Buy it. Buy it now! You know it looks great!

Never let it be said that I can't be counted on to be an enabler.

With friends like you, who needs enemas, huh?

 

[Ishmael]

Thanks guys! I'm getting the feeling that you all think I should probably buy this jacket? No, wait, actually, I feel like I'm surrounded by multiple Captain Ahabs!

I do agree with you, I could perhaps search forever and still not find a jacket that fits like this one.

I'll definitely be getting one of these. I'll wait until they get the seal brown in to make up my mind. Will post pics of the seal, as well as the one that comes home with me.

Thanks for all the help!

 

[ButteMT61]

Buy one in a 48. If it doesn't fit right, send it my way. I'm here for you friend!

 

[Worf]

Buy one in a 48. If it doesn't fit right, send it my way. I'm here for you friend!

Hmmm hmmm... yeah... I've seen this movie before!!!!

Worf

 

[Ishmael]

Sorry, but I they only go up to 44!