Seam down the middle in the back - poll!

[trainspotter]

I actually like the look of the centre seam on two of my most favoured jackets, Board Racer & Schott's P665. Centre seam + bottom Kidney Panel is a visually pleasing combination imo, besides helping with the fit

 

[Carlos840]

Alright, I think I get it now. Took some thinking in 3d but I know how it works.

Even better than your first drawing!
Once you start looking at your jackets with these kind of details in mind, a whole new world opens...

 

[Monitor]

Even better than your first drawing!
Once you start looking at your jackets with these kind of details in mind, a whole new world opens...

I was literally typing the exact same thing! I just finally figured out how this works and am still currently trying to process if actually now I want ALL of my jackets to have a back seam as the lack of it suddenly feels cheap and lazy. You can affect the shape tremendously thru this method, to the point of pure perfection. Dunno, man... This is becoming scary and I'm not sure I'm ready for this.

 

[Nykwil]

I have the board racer with a T back center seem, and it def helps hug the back and body and gives me a flattering fit and it shows in the front and back.

For the record I voted "don't care" because it's all really up to the person in what they want and how it feels to the wearer.

I think it looks great (on me), but I'm biased It gives me the shape I want to highlight on my torso

 

[Dr H]

Visual examples are always easier to understand, thanks. That is quite nice looking to me.

I like the look and opted for French seams on the Monarch.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Thedi has a center French seam that I think adds to the style...

 

[Guppy]

Alright, I think I get it now. Took some thinking in 3d but I know how it works.

Right. Imagine an exaggerated example of this. Picture a canoe built from left and right halves joined at the bottom, creating a seam at the keel. The curve of this seam at the bow and stern results in the skin of the canoe not laying flat, and taking on a 3d shape.

 

[steve u]

My two jackets
Monarch Meandering zip

Lost worlds TEST

My vote..

 

[Seb Lucas]

Pretty much...
Imagine you are joining two pieces of leather, you could have the joined edge perfectly straight, you could have a slight convex cut on the edges, or a slight concave cut on the edges:

The top example is literally just a visual design/cost saving thing, it won't add anything to the shape of the jacket.
You are literally just splitting a panel in half.

The mid example, you are basically adding a curve in the back that follows the spine, i think that's what they do with the board racer, pretty sure it is visible in this jacket too:

Third example you are adding room, in the bottom and top, i am pretty sure this is how they do the bell shape on the bottom of this jacket:

Now imagine combinations of all of the above, the options are endless...

The same thing applies to yokes, this yoke for example uses the same principle to give more room in the scapular area:

You could not achieve the same thing with a single piece back...

Edit: i am not a tailor, this is my basic understanding of how this works, i am sure there is more to it than what i posted above...

Thanks for taking the trouble, Carlos. Not sure I am convinced yet so I'll mull over it.

 

[Jin431]

I like the look and opted for French seams on the Monarch. View attachment 266847 View attachment 266848

Wowowow, that looks very intricate/delicate. Very nice indeed

 

[jglf]

I feel that the Highwayman has the most visually appealing back layout, but after wearing many jackets over the years, I value function over style when it comes to the back construction. That’s why I prefer action backs, gussets, and vertical seams if it aids in the fit and ease of mobility.

 

[handymike]

Thedi has a center French seam that I think adds to the style...
View attachment 266865

I actually prefer this one without the center seam. Sorry HD.

 

[Seb Lucas]

I have the board racer with a T back center seem, and it def helps hug the back and body and gives me a flattering fit and it shows in the front and back.

For the record I voted "don't care" because it's all really up to the person in what they want and how it feels to the wearer.

I think it looks great (on me), but I'm biased It gives me the shape I want to highlight on my torso

Nice jacket but I can't see how the vertical seam here does anything different to one piece of leather correctly cut.

 

[navetsea]

If I have to choose I still prefer no center line on the back, but I probably choose single center line on the back over complex back like sunburst or FW's back

Alright, I think I get it now. Took some thinking in 3d but I know how it works.

that's a conquistador's chest piece center seam can taper lower back and neck a little, but I still prefer 3 pieces back back panel and side panels do the same but cleaner

 

[North_Star]

Seams add man hours, these jackets were designed at a time when materials where expensive and workers were cheap.
IMO the sunburst back is a cost cutting measure.

IMO back in the days the sunburst and hercules style backs were cost cutting, but nowadays made 2020 they are more of a design choice and a throw back to old styles. They probably cost more to make than a single piece back. But a single straight back seam that adds no function made in 2020 is still a cost cutting measure.

 

[Seb Lucas]

I think the centre line looks best with a scalloped yoke.

 

[ericsanpablo31]

So on the board racer the back seam is done so you have more space in the back when hunched over on a bike? I guess this allows them to keep the front more fitting when standing normally?

 

[Seb Lucas]

So on the board racer the back seam is done so you have more space in the back when hunched over on a bike? I guess this allows them to keep the front more fitting when standing normally?

Find it hard to accept that this is a thing. A J100 - virtually the same jacket (I have owned 3) - fits brilliantly without the need for a seam.

 

[Carlos840]

Find it hard to accept that this is a thing. A J100 - virtually the same jacket (I have owned 3) - fits brilliantly without the need for a seam.

I mean just compare both versions of the jacket, it's pretty obvious that the one with a center seam has a curved back and the other one a flat back:

The backs are clearly different and fit differently.
No one is saying that a jacket without a center seam cannot fit briliantly either...

 

[Seb Lucas]

I mean just compare both versions of the jacket, it's pretty obvious that the one with a center seam has a curved back and the other one a flat back:

The backs are clearly different and fit differently.
No one is saying that a jacket without a center seam cannot fit briliantly either...

If that center seam is causing the hunch back look... errr.