Schott x Shinki Jacket

[Marc mndt]

It’s 26 inches. For many of us, that’s normal cropped cross-zip length.

27 on bigger sizes. That's not normal cross zip length. That's generous halfbelt length.

This Schott Halfbelt had a 25.5 back length. A 27" cross zip mc jacket would look absolutely ridiculous on me.

 

[Aloysius]

27 on bigger sizes. That's not normal cross zip length. That's generous halfbelt length.

This Schott Halfbelt had a 25.5 back length. A 27" cross zip mc jacket would look absolutely ridiculous on me.

View attachment 421345 View attachment 421346

Bigger sizes don’t really enter my estimation, but I imagine bigger guys have more keeping the jacket up. At 186cm, a 26” cross-zip comes to my belt line, which I wouldn’t consider excessively long (and to my recollection, you’re taller than me).

I prefer 25.5” but it is still waist-length, not like the fashion jackets Schott and the Japanese have done that are like 28-29”.

 

[Marc mndt]

and to my recollection, you’re taller than me

I'm 180 / 5'11 and wear size 42.

I agree that if you're 186 26" sounds about right.

 

[Aloysius]

I'm 180 / 5'11 and wear size 42.

Ah, I'm mixing your height up with someone else, though I remembered the chest!

(Although it says a lot about us as a community, in a good way, that to a large extent we know each other's measurements and can therefore pass along a deal or find.)

Yes, the length situation is unfortunate then. The 42 (L) is a 26". You'd have to get basically a size 34/36, due to how small these jackets run, to get a more normal back length; in other words, it would be impossible.

 

[MrProper]

Just for comparison, that's 68.5 cm/26.9". But I'm also 196 cm tall and wear low/mid waist jeans.
But the jacket could certainly well be 1 cm shorter in the back. Optimal are 26.5" in the back

 

[Carlos840]

I'm 180 / 5'11 and wear size 42.

I agree that if you're 186 26" sounds about right.

I'm 188cm /6'2" and 25.25" is my standard back length on a size 42 jacket:

On a good pattern i can go as short as 24.5":

 

[Marc mndt]

On a good pattern i can go as short as 24.5":

Ok but now try wearing one of those good pattern jackets on a pair of sweatpants. It'll be too short for sure lol

 

[Carlos840]

Ok but now try wearing one of those good pattern jackets on a pair of sweatpants. It'll be too short for sure lol

Exactly, they are clearly designing these back lengths for low rise trousers, which IMO isn't right.

 

[El Marro]

Ok but now try wearing one of those good pattern jackets on a pair of sweatpants. It'll be too short for sure lol

I speak from experience when I say that it doesn’t matter how good the jacket is, nothing works with sweatpants!

 

[marker2037]

I speak from experience when I say that it doesn’t matter how good the jacket is, nothing works with sweatpants!

Ok boomer

 

[dudewuttheheck]

It is. I referenced this guy's other picture earlier in the thread, but I didn't want to post it myself as it's not from this forum. As I alluded to earlier, if he takes his hand out of his pocket, stands up straight and let's the jacket hang it's nearly half the length of his entire body. It's just wrong for him. There's only one way he can wear that jacket and it's with untucked extra long t-shirts and unzipped only. Not our style at all.

Yeah thats what I dislike about it the most. I wish brands would stop lengthening jackets for "modern" styles that just look worse.

I know some people are taller, but thats why brands like Eastman make long models

 

[El Marro]

Ok boomer

Ooh that’s cold! I may be bald but I ain’t no boomer, Gen X baby!

 

[Edward]

Exactly, they are clearly designing these back lengths for low rise trousers, which IMO isn't right.

That's my issue with a lot of these styles that are designed to reinterpret vintage designs for contemporary outfits. I don't think the problem is so much the lengthening alone as the complete and total lack of any thought being given to how it throws off the balance of the design, and whether that needs to be rethought. It's almost the opposite of high street suiting, where so often what I see are waistcoats that avoid looking comically overlong only by leaving two clear inches (at least) all around the waist between the bottom of the waistcoat and the trouser waistband.

For anyone who doesn't fit the average proportions assumed by off the rack designs, of course, this is going to be problematic. Poor old Joey Ramone in the early days before he could afford to have something fit right was a classic example of a guy whose height was not accommodated for in the standardised measurements that his slimness required. His jackets around 74-76 ended up looking like boobtubes and shrugs half the time.

Starts to feel like there is such a thing as "off the rack privilege", whereby it's a hell of a lot easier to find something that fits right if you fall into an average size.

 

[Aloysius]

For anyone who doesn't fit the average proportions assumed by off the rack designs, of course, this is going to be problematic. Poor old Joey Ramone in the early days before he could afford to have something fit right was a classic example of a guy whose height was not accommodated for in the standardised measurements that his slimness required. His jackets around 74-76 ended up looking like boobtubes and shrugs half the time.

I’ve actually wondered if this is why he switched to Lewis so early in the band, then to Vanson later on, as both companies do custom lengths.

 

[Edward]

I’ve actually wondered if this is why he switched to Lewis so early in the band, then to Vanson later on, as both companies do custom lengths.

That would have made a lot of sense. Lewis especially, as the British makers found a demand for slightly longer jackets much earlier, given differences in preferred riding positions (as compared to the 'sat upright' position you tend to see work on a Harley or similar American bike), especially into the mid-late seventies when racing bikes started to become particularly popular over here.

 

[Canuck Panda]

I don't like this Schott for many reasons, but length isn't one of them.

The belt is still placed higher up where the waist cinch is needed for riding, so there is like an inch or more below where the jacket belt is. A lot of riding jackets are like this, my Vanson Highwayman is the same length but belts are placed an inch or more up, and so is the start of the zip. "Mud Flaps" for your jeans pockets.
If I use a soft tape I am quite certain I can measure more than 26" length on the Vanson:

But the fact that Schott is using Shinki and a leathertog back / perfecto front just bugs me. I don't know who the target audience is. And I am already an odd ball when it comes to leather jackets.

 

[marker2037]

I don't like this Schott for many reasons, but length isn't one of them.

The belt is still placed higher up where the waist cinch is needed for riding, so there is like an inch or more below where the jacket belt is. A lot of riding jackets are like this, my Vanson Highwayman is the same length but belts are placed an inch or more up, and so is the start of the zip. "Mud Flaps" for your jeans pockets.
If I use a soft tape I am quite certain I can measure more than 26" length on the Vanson:
View attachment 421631

But the fact that Schott is using Shinki and a leathertog back / perfecto front just bugs me. I don't know who the target audience is. And I am already an odd ball when it comes to leather jackets.

I wouldn't really call it a leathertog back. It's got a couple of elements, but it's not the same thing with the big seam down the middle of the back. Plus, I don't mind companies mashing up different styles together because, really what else is there to do? Keep making the same jackets over and over and over or try something slightly different? I'm all for history and classicism, but I also think some experimenting is good.

It's why I love my Field Leathers Manhattan so much, as it has elements of different jackets I love.

 

[Aloysius]

I wouldn't really call it a leathertog back. It's got a couple of elements, but it's not the same thing with the big seam down the middle of the back. Plus, I don't mind companies mashing up different styles together because, really what else is there to do? Keep making the same jackets over and over and over or try something slightly different? I'm all for history and classicism, but I also think some experimenting is good.

It's why I love my Field Leathers Manhattan so much, as it has elements of different jackets I love.

Schott (and all of the older makers, really) has an interesting history of mash-ups like that, such as the jackets that were basically a CHP with Perfecto front pocket layout. It cost more than the other models because of the extra labor required to do the long kidney panel.

 

[Canuck Panda]

I wouldn't really call it a leathertog back. It's got a couple of elements, but it's not the same thing with the big seam down the middle of the back. Plus, I don't mind companies mashing up different styles together because, really what else is there to do? Keep making the same jackets over and over and over or try something slightly different? I'm all for history and classicism, but I also think some experimenting is good.

It's why I love my Field Leathers Manhattan so much, as it has elements of different jackets I love.

I was just trying to be nice to the Schot brand because I do plan on adding a 618.

This Shinki one looked like it was designed by the accountants working at Schott. Maximize the leather usage.

One of the main reason I’d buy a 618 is because it has that one piece back And a kidney. Quality.

 

[Aloysius]

One of the main reason I’d buy a 618 is because it has that one piece back And a kidney. Quality.

That’s the standard Perfecto back! I still think you should go for the 613SH for the unique leather.

As for your overdye 618 plan, you could just buy one of the CXL models and already have it done for you.