Schott PER70 Perfecto Review

[navetsea]

Looks great on your wjdywt, congrats !

 

[jeo]

Yep, I totally hear you about feelin' good in Schott! Pretty much the reason why all my jackets are Perfectos. And that's a great observation on placement of details. Wanted to mention something about how they always make it right in an initial review but figured that might just be my preference thus it ultimately doesn't matter, but it does!
TBH, I immediately thought of you when I put the jacket on as it reminded me of something you got, tho I can't think of what exactly. But either way, I think this jacket is absolutely essential for you!!

I only have one Schott Perfecto. It's a vintage one circa 1983. Only other jacket that I own that has some kind of distressing is my LVC, and it's my favorite jacket. I know you like that one so maybe that's what you were thinking of.

Here's a comparison on the distressing to show how good they pulled it off on your jacket compared to a vintage one.

And the placement and size of the pockets absolutely matters. Throughout the years and different models of the Perfecto they have constantly been messed with. When it's right, it makes a huge difference and it looks just right on yours.

You can see in the pics below that the coin pocket on mine is a little too large and the hand warmer pockets are set too far back (IMO)

As for this one being essential for me, oh trust me I would own more Schotts but their sizing is just too crazy. I mean yours is a small, so even an extra small would be massive on me. Only reason I own one is I found an older one back when they didn't make their patterns so big and bulky as they did since mid 80's to mid 2000's. If I buy one of their "slim" versions that they offer nowadays, it will fit me in the chest and shoulders but it will be long in the body and sleeves. These late 70's and early 80's versions are the only ones that will fit me right. Mine is a 36 which is nuts because I've tried a more modern Schott in size 32 before and it was too bulky and sleeves too long.

 

[Carlos840]

@Monitor, can you do a series of fit pics comparing your 4 or 5 perfectos at some point?
It would be cool to see all of them side by side, maybe do a full comparison thread.

 

[tobler]

Thanks @Monitor, your review was such a wonderful read especially with a cup of coffee in hand. About sizing down, I read some measurements about this jacket and it looks like a normal fit sizing, do you recommend sizing down because of a different cut pattern? I would love to hear about it.

 

[ton312]

I second the notion for a perfecto shoot out! I can tell this pattern (per 70) would appeal to me more based on the body length and the sleeve length. All the perfectos I’ve had (that weren’t longs) were to short for my tastes in both those areas. Seems like the vintage ones rarely eclipsed a 24” sleeve.

 

[Marc mndt]

Seems like the vintage ones rarely eclipsed a 24” sleeve.

Yep. Here an 80s size 42. I think it had 23' sleeves. At first I thought they were shortened but at close inspection they turned out to be all original.

 

[Carlos840]

613

Yep. Here an 80s size 42. I think it had 23' sleeves. At first I thought they were shortened but at close inspection they turned out to be all original.
View attachment 310896

613H also 42, now belongs to Monitor.
A wee bit shirt...

 

[Monitor]

@Carlos840 & @ton312, I would happily do a fit comparison shoot out but none of the Schott jackets that I have are actually in my size so it wouldn't be very representative of what any of these jackets should fit like. I am 40 in Schott and don't have a single Perfecto in that size. 613's are in 38 and 42, and the new jacket is Small which isn't exactly the size that should fit me, even though it does. That Racer1 I got is size 40 and it really does feel perfect in every way. It's sad but I never even had a Perfecto in a size 40.

@jeo, seeing the actual wear on your 618 - I'm surprised to see they used this natural leather painted black so far into the 80's 'cause I never managed to find one of the later jackets that wasn't dyed all the way thru - well, you just made me appreciate my new jacket even more! Now I see they really got it right. There's barely any difference. And holy crap, does that jacket fit you great... Great and just right!
I'm thinking that model was produced exclusively for European market. There's been some talk that all these 618's with the pocket patch or embroidery were made for France. And these were almost always shorter. They've done this crazy European line that was 21" back. I don't know what the heck for. You can still find them all over Vinted. Anyway, that large coin pocket is neat. I love it.

@tobler, thanks, I'm glad you had fun reading it! As for the sizing, well, depends how you like to wear your jackets. I need my cross zips to fit me short & trim so while that dude on the photos on Schott's website may be wearing a jacket that's technically in his size, it's not the fit I would have preferred and I know a lot of people don't because this seems to be a constant gripe many guys have with Schott sizing.
But I mentioned this only because I don't think I should be able to zip up a leather jacket that's tagged Small over a massively thick wool sweater. I can't even put on my 613 in a sz. 38 over the same sweater, let alone zip it up, and 38 still falls under Medium if I'm right.
Not to mention that the sleeves are even perhaps slightly too long!
Either way, I know would've been swimming in Medium and that seems a bit off to me.

 

[jeo]

@jeo, seeing the actual wear on your 618 - I'm surprised to see they used this natural leather painted black so far into the 80's 'cause I never managed to find one of the later jackets that wasn't dyed all the way thru - well, you just made me appreciate my new jacket even more! Now I see they really got it right. There's barely any difference. And holy crap, does that jacket fit you great... Great and just right!
I'm thinking that model was produced exclusively for European market. There's been some talk that all these 618's with the pocket patch or embroidery were made for France. And these were almost always shorter. They've done this crazy European line that was 21" back. I don't know what the heck for. You can still find them all over Vinted. Anyway, that large coin pocket is neat. I love it.

Interesting. Never heard anything about these jackets with the Schott logo ticket on the coin pocket being made for the European market, but that may explain how a 36 is so small.

When I uploaded pics of the jacket to the Schott forum, Gail was only able to verify to a certainty that this jacket was produced either late 1983 or early 1984. She could not confirm whether it's the 118 naked cowhide or the 618 steerhide.

What makes you say steerhide?



And btw, I like the coin pocket size on yours better, it just looks right to my eyes.

 

[Monitor]

Interesting. Never heard anything about these jackets with the Schott logo ticket on the coin pocket being made for the European market, but that may explain how a 36 is so small.

I vaguely recall reading something about how the extra logo ticket was a telltale sign of a European market Perfecto but I could be wrong. I do know for a fact that all the jackets with the embroidered Schott logo are definitely for the French market but that's about all I can tell you.

When I uploaded pics of the jacket to the Schott forum, Gail was only able to verify to a certainty that this jacket was produced either late 1983 or early 1984. She could not confirm whether it's the 118 naked cowhide or the 618 steerhide.

What makes you say steerhide?

Oh, I just refer to all Schott cowhide jackets as steerhide, no particular reason. If I am to guess, I'd say yours is made of what Schott calls naked cowhide. Steerhide has much heavier finish and it's nowhere near as nice.

 

[jeo]

@Monitor cool thanks for the info!

I know you said that none of your Schotts are your size, but I'd still love to see the "Monitor Schott Shootout"!!

 

[Marc mndt]

I vaguely recall reading something about how the extra logo ticket was a telltale sign of a European market Perfecto but I could be wrong. I do know for a fact that all the jackets with the embroidered Schott logo are definitely for the French market but that's about all I can tell you.



Oh, I just refer to all Schott cowhide jackets as steerhide, no particular reason. If I am to guess, I'd say yours is made of what Schott calls naked cowhide. Steerhide has much heavier finish and it's nowhere near as nice.

Cowhide = steerhide, right?
Steerhide sounds more manly I guess

 

[Monitor]

One final observation I was reluctant to share right away, thinking I must be imagining things but turns out I'm not; The jacket smells like bona fide beef. No, I'm not kidding. And the smell is actually very prominent. There's a whiff of beef in my room now, where I keep the jacket.

Cowhide = steerhide, right?
Steerhide sounds more manly I guess

Yep, same thing. It's actually the same hide, just processed differently.

 

[jeo]

One final observation I was reluctant to share right away, thinking I must be imagining things but turns out I'm not; The jacket smells like bona fide beef. No, I'm not kidding. And the smell is actually very prominent. There's a whiff of beef in my room now, where I keep the jacket.

Yep, same thing. It's actually the same hide, just processed differently.

I can imagine walking around in that jacket and being hungry all the time because of the beef smell haha!

Just to clarify as there is a difference between a cow (female) and a steer (male) and their leathers, so when Schott says a jacket is made of steerhide, it's actually cowhide just processed differently?

 

[Carlos840]

I can imagine walking around in that jacket and being hungry all the time because of the beef smell haha!

Just to clarify as there is a difference between a cow (female) and a steer (male) and their leathers, so when Schott says a jacket is made of steerhide, it's actually cowhide just processed differently?

For Schott Cowhide vs Steerhide is just a different grading/finishing term.

 

[Monitor]

Just to clarify as there is a difference between a cow (female) and a steer (male) and their leathers, so when Schott says a jacket is made of steerhide, it's actually cowhide just processed differently?

Yep. Steerhide is just a moniker they've given to their more processed leather they use on the 618 but it's actually all cowhide. They don't use male bovine for one line of jackets and female for the other, as the naming system would suggest.

By quality, Schott leather is graded as...
Naked cowhide - Least processed & often heaviest, full grain leather. Only the most pristine hide goes into production of Naked cowhide items. It's usually only dyed black.
Steerhide - Superficially corrected leather with a heavy finish.

 

[jeo]

@Carlos840 and @Monitor Thanks! I never knew that. Those lying, misleading bastards!! Haha just kidding, I can rarely tell the difference between cowhide and steerhide anyway.

 

[TREEMAN]

I wouldn't mind seeing ' The Schott Shootout " either....The per70 looks like it could handle itself..

 

[Monitor]

I wouldn't mind seeing ' The Schott Shootout " either....The per70 looks like it could handle itself..

Right now it would wipe the floor with any other Schott in the room, Racer1 being the only exception since that thing is a real heavyweight contender.

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

Yep. Steerhide is just a moniker they've given to their more processed leather they use on the 618 but it's actually all cowhide. They don't use male bovine for one line of jackets and female for the other, as the naming system would suggest.

By quality, Schott leather is graded as...
Naked cowhide - Least processed & often heaviest, full grain leather. Only the most pristine hide goes into production of Naked cowhide items. It's usually only dyed black.
Steerhide - Superficially corrected leather with a heavy finish.

to add to this and I may have something wrong, so feel free to chime in, but based on my browsing.

100 series jackets are the naked or aniline cow leather. As Monitor mentions, the best hides and hence why a 118 costs more than a 618. Most of the time black, but occasionally you'll see a blue on special releases or brown on certain models (i.e. 141).

500 series is waxed leather, sometimes pebbled (530) sometimes more pull up (508)

600 series is mostly the steerhide, harder break in and in many models cases, a "slimmer" cut than the matching 100 series models. Again, comparing 118 with 618. Not just leather difference and some small design notes, but the 618 is cut slimmer. So in theory, if you're a 40 in 118, you're supposed to get a 42 in 618. Same with 141 vs. 641. But there are some 600 series exceptions like the 618HH, 641HH or 619 Oiled/ChromeTanned/Aniline which is really an oddball as to why it has the 600 label. I'm guessing since it's the same design but different leather, they keep the series number but note the leather difference.